I should add, if it isn't clear, that either of these sets will work in the newer or older motor assemblies as long as you have a matched set. Clearly you can't mix and match the sets given the differences in the shaft designs.
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- Thread starter Lil'John
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The two steel versions that SOR carries match these two gears. I'm not sure how the newer style gear would work if you didn't have those keys. Would be curious if Toyota made that particular gear with a different shaft design?
Anyone have a spare safety switch for the rear glass? Or should I just bypass it?
Bypass it. Put a jumper in the terminal block direct to ground as illustrated by the red wire in this photo. You can leave the switch in place.
Will do. Thanks for the response.
hey guys....so my motor stopped working....pulled it out and (thankfully) the gear is already been upgraded to brass... the motor was 'stuck' from sitting outside for a year (easy to unstick it) but the plastic connector/tube sitting in the arm b/w the motor and the gear has two washers literally taped to the ends (one end fell off). is this OEM? more a curiousity since impossible to find such a part...dont know that i could do better than taping some washers...maybe drilling a piece of oak wood.
what does kinda suck is that when i opened up the motor chamber a single ball bearing fell out. i couldnt hear any others jiggling around, so i just closed it up. anybody tore it apart down to ball bearings? thoughts on one dropping out? i dont want to try to dismantle the guts of the motor in case the other bearings come out and were spring loaded. i dont have AC in my workshop!
what does kinda suck is that when i opened up the motor chamber a single ball bearing fell out. i couldnt hear any others jiggling around, so i just closed it up. anybody tore it apart down to ball bearings? thoughts on one dropping out? i dont want to try to dismantle the guts of the motor in case the other bearings come out and were spring loaded. i dont have AC in my workshop!
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Not OEM, let me look in my stash and see what's there.
i was thinking of getting a dowel, drilling a hole thru it and then superglue/drill the washers onto the ends... the tape just looks like that's not gonna last more than one lift (although it did lift the window at least 10 times for me before I left the truck to sit at the mechanic's for the engine/tranny swap). BTW, its full beast mode now...accidentally (?) did a few burnouts going uphill (!)
I checked, I've got a spare which measures 1 3/4" you can have it and not mess with making a wood one.
Talking about the coupler piece? The rubber is vulcanized to the metal ends. It helps to cushion the gears on initial motor engagement. A solid coupler would probably work, if you could find a machinist to cut that half circle center hole.
Yeah, I don't why the tape is there, looks to be alright otherwise. Here's one of my spares...
Pull the tape and see what's underneath. It might be fine.
clearly the vulcanization of mine wore out... one washer totally dropped off and the other hanging on by tape and coupler rubber softened
i'd love to have your spare if you can spare it.
No problem, send me a PM with your address.
Not sure about the exact gear count idea but I have had my glass jostled ever so slightly so that the metal channel guide with the rubber that hold the glass gets off center so that it just doesn’t go up right. The rollers from the internal mechanism just slide so it is off center. I should say that I custom made my window channel since my original finally disintegrated into rust dust. So my channel might not be as tight on the glass even with the channel rubber as it should be.
I believe mine are at four teeth difference, but others have said 5 teeth.
I didn't count the teeth difference but when I let mine go the first time I had everything apart I recall it taking me two or three tries to get the window level.