Looks like I figured it out. Bad ground wire on the safety switch.
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- Thread starter Lil'John
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Hi Bigpig. Did you ever work out the swap from manual tailgate winder to electric. I have 2 going on 4 new to me pigs/Mooses First a daily drive with barn doors. Second with tailgate with the window dropped inside the tailgate and 2 parts vehicles with barn doors. Also do you have any info on the manual tailgate winders that we have here in Aussie. Concentrating on the little rust spots at present but I would love to get the tailgate window operational. cheers, Ian
@Lil'John , you ever get that handle back from the powder coater?
We had a couple issues out at the Pig Party with rear windows and tailgate linkages. Thought about firing off a tailgate/rear window rebuild thread with the couple I have. Saw you started this 10 years ago or better. Any updates?
We had a couple issues out at the Pig Party with rear windows and tailgate linkages. Thought about firing off a tailgate/rear window rebuild thread with the couple I have. Saw you started this 10 years ago or better. Any updates?
Apparently not...
Well, I took a couple back window motor/gear drive assemblies apart this week. The original one from my 77 has a near perfect plastic gear, but is missing the wedge piece, Jesus clip, cover and screws. The donor window motor assembly from a long missed 75 pig is complete, but the gear is junk. Unfortunately, both gears take different wedges. So far, no replacement pieces to be found from the few parts suppliers I’ve looked through. May have to find another used unit, or get with a machinist.
Well, I took a couple back window motor/gear drive assemblies apart this week. The original one from my 77 has a near perfect plastic gear, but is missing the wedge piece, Jesus clip, cover and screws. The donor window motor assembly from a long missed 75 pig is complete, but the gear is junk. Unfortunately, both gears take different wedges. So far, no replacement pieces to be found from the few parts suppliers I’ve looked through. May have to find another used unit, or get with a machinist.
It seems like you could get those 3D printed in Delrin or something relatively easy but maybe not.
That is a great idea, and something we need to look into
Checked on Specter this morning and they have new metal replacement gears.
And from the pics, there looks to be a third style.
www.sor.com
Checked on Specter this morning and they have new metal replacement gears.
And from the pics, there looks to be a third style.
FJ55 Tailgate, glass, weatherstrip, hardware, handles and hinges, 1968-1980 Land Cruiser - Specter Off-Road
Toyota Land Cruiser parts since 1983. From the oldest FJ25 and to the newest Land Cruiser, Non USA or domestic 40 Series, 60 Series 80 Series or 100 Series, SOR has the largest selection of top quality new and used OEM and aftermarket Land Cruiser parts in stock in the world. Specializing in...
Do 3D printed worm gears hold up to high torque loads?
Good question. Nylon and polycarbonate are both pretty durable. You can also get metal impregnated nylon.
Isn’t the original gear nylon?
Yeah some sort of injected material that as far as I understand should be inherently stronger than printed material if everything else is equal. And it’s this plastic gear we are talking about failing.
Why reinvent the wheel or gear in this case? SOR sells a metal gear for ~$100 and even though I’m not a fan of their shipping charge policy if I needed a new gear it would appear a no-brainer to just get one ordered, installed and forget about it for the life of the pig.
It’s the better part of a day just to get to the gear and get everything back in alignment, giving SOR a $100 seems like the easy part.
Not talking about 3D printing a gear, at least I’m not. It’s the wedge (or whatever it’s proper name is) that seats the gear to the output shaft that seems to be MIA. Without that piece, everything is no-go.
Take a look at the picture again with the two gears side by side. Look at the center section. Two different styles of wedges. Specter also sells yet another different style, so that’s 3 different wedges/adapters.
The worm gears are steel and should last forever with the plastic gear.
Take a look at the picture again with the two gears side by side. Look at the center section. Two different styles of wedges. Specter also sells yet another different style, so that’s 3 different wedges/adapters.
The worm gears are steel and should last forever with the plastic gear.
Looks to me like you need their 1975-1980 FJ55 FJ55 gear to go with the motor and gear box in your pictures.
That gear I posted should fit your shafts. Looks like they just squared off the corners.
Maybe it’s made out of nylon so you don’t wear the worm gear. If the SOR gear was aluminum or brass I would feel better about using it. Agree it’s not a cost consideration.
I’m sorry, I should’ve been referring to it as an adapter. It adapts the nylon gear to the output shaft.
If all output shafts are designed the same, then this rectangular centered gear could be a universal solution.
If all output shafts are designed the same, then this rectangular centered gear could be a universal solution.
Make sure you check those two brass square spacers, they tend to crack also. I believe there are two different output shafts and corresponding plastic gears. We need to go back and read all the different posts on this because I've forgotten most of it. I think you can change the output shaft to match the new/old style gear.
Hey Rush,
Do you need any of those parts to get one going? Let me know I've got some spare parts in the bins.
Do you need any of those parts to get one going? Let me know I've got some spare parts in the bins.