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- #1,621
Oh wow! Is that white powder from the heat shield or did you find the POs coke stash?
Build Work In Progress aka: Badass
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
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- Thread starter
- #1,622
Only took once for me too... had a couple specks of metal or whatever it was in my eye only hours before a huge snow storm this late winter. It was a no kid night so took my butt to the ER at 11:30pm. Luckily I’d flushed one out already but the second needed some special prompting. Eye stuff scares the pants off me.
No such luck on the pharmaceuticals. Just asbestos dust, rust and oil dry.
It was 97 degrees that day, so while running a cutting torch overhead my PPE consisted of shorts, sandals and sunglasses. The burns are all healed now. I'm such a dumbass.
It was 97 degrees that day, so while running a cutting torch overhead my PPE consisted of shorts, sandals and sunglasses. The burns are all healed now. I'm such a dumbass.
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- #1,624
Wow. That’s crazy and scary. I really don’t dig pain unless it’s invited... sparks and fire aren’t on that list.
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- #1,626
Bearing roll out then in.... but I wasn’t expecting the rod to push up away from the crank. Laying under the truck trying to visualize the placement of the upper bearing. Just carefully push it up and in?
I’ve kept my grubby hands off the journal and understand not to touch the backside of the bearings and inner curve of caps.
Someone pipe in please.
I’ve kept my grubby hands off the journal and understand not to touch the backside of the bearings and inner curve of caps.
Someone pipe in please.
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- #1,627
Muduploading is being a pita. Bearings in #6. Pressed up and in then tapped the edges of the upper flush w/ rod cap/bottom w/ wooden dowel. Gently added oil only to inner curves of new bearing. Gonna wait for critique before going further. Haven’t torqued nuts yet either.
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- #1,628
Also... good call to replace the rod bearings, upper one on 6 was just beginning to break down at the oil hole.
Cover the ends of the rod studs with rubber vac line or something to keep from scratching the journal.
My bearings looked like that too. I just used my fingers on the edges to push it around I think, but the wooden dowel is probably better, and cleaner.
My bearings looked like that too. I just used my fingers on the edges to push it around I think, but the wooden dowel is probably better, and cleaner.
I was pretty sure my pistons had moved up and away also, I think that was what I had posted earlier. Your method of placing them into the connecting rod and then bringing the rod down is sensible. I think that helps keep the threads away from the journals too, but it’s been a long time since I’ve done it so I can’t quite remember. Seems like the only other way would be to bring the rod closer to the journal and then rotate the bearing into it but I don’t see any advantage to that. Maybe 6 of one....half dozen...
Tabs in the right orientation? Tighten it down and keep going.
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- #1,632
I was very aware of any possible rubbing so I held them away as I turned the flywheel.
Thanks for piping in.
Thanks for piping in.
I figured you were. It’s not hard to keep them clear if your careful and not an impatient clutz like me. I think pulling down the piston is when I’ve caught it.
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- #1,634
Almost 9 now. Just cleaned up and going to eat. Done for the night. Now I know tho. Was a tad nervous to do the first one.
I didn’t have a cotter pin so I made one. Tmrw I’ll go get a package. The wire I used was a harder material than I wanted.
But yes, tabs correct.
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- #1,635
I did lay there and stare at everything for a bit. I get it now... full on bottom end rebuild. Rings could be done from below. I can’t imagine honing could be done easily or at all tho.
Nicely done!
My knock went away but I don’t think you had one, right? It was a beautiful sound, the disappearing knock.
My knock went away but I don’t think you had one, right? It was a beautiful sound, the disappearing knock.
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- #1,637
Yeah never noticed a knock, thankfully!
It is nerve wracking to do something like that for the first time.
Quoting the pulling the piston from the bottom:
Do you think you’d be able to pull the piston past the crank? Oh but wait, to put it back you’d have to put the spring compression tool on top and push the piston up and then the tool would be between the piston skirt and rod but maybe it can still come off somehow. Just thinking out loud...
Quoting the pulling the piston from the bottom:
Do you think you’d be able to pull the piston past the crank? Oh but wait, to put it back you’d have to put the spring compression tool on top and push the piston up and then the tool would be between the piston skirt and rod but maybe it can still come off somehow. Just thinking out loud...
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- #1,639
Ah yes that’s right. Seems like a ‘no ****ing way’ would be inserted next.
But folks do bottom ends right? Is that w/ rings? Maybe there’s a different spring compression tool for being underneath.
But folks do bottom ends right? Is that w/ rings? Maybe there’s a different spring compression tool for being underneath.
I think doing the bottom end includes the rod bearings and the crankshaft bearings. Too end is what you did before and the rings. But I’m guessing ha ha!