Won’t crank after driving…..

[sleepycruiser]

I’ve been having an issue where on a cold engine I can push the gas pedal 6-8 times and it cranks up. Lately after I drive and turn it off it has trouble starting back up.

Starter turns over…I almost think it’s flooded.

Right now I’m at a gas station and I cannot get it cranked. Battery is fine…starter turning over. Just tuned up with @Lifelong40Fan two months ago.

Any ideas? Definitely need to fix it before going anywhere again….that is…if I can get home.

 

[Mike Shull]

What happens when you spray fuel and/or starting fluid in the carburetor?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Do a dry then wet compression check cold. Then check the compression when its hot at home. As a kid, the neighbors Hudson wouldn't start hot due to compression issues.

Could be electrical - heat increases resistance - see if you have spark when hot - no spark smells like flooding. Points worn, bad condenser or weak coil

 

[Mike Shull]

Is your choke stuck?

 

[sleepycruiser]

What happens when you spray fuel and/or starting fluid in the carburetor?

I need to start carrying some with me.

Is your choke stuck?

Electric choke

Weber 32/36 DGAV

 

[Mike Shull]

Electric chokes can fail. I would double check that the choke is wide open when it is warm.

 

[sleepycruiser]

After about 15 minutes I pushed the pedal down and cranked until it started. When I got home I turned it off and it will start immediately if I turn it off and on in under 10 seconds. After that is struggles again.

 

[lcwizard]

sounds like vapor lock. the Webers will do that in hot climates. You might want to run a fuel regulator with a return close to the carb , the firewall works.
Chase this a lot in AZ. It was enough of an issue that Toyota started installing carb cooling fans on the 2F after octanes dropped and smog motors ran warmer

 

[sleepycruiser]

sounds like vapor lock. the Webers will do that in hot climates. You might want to run a fuel regulator with a return close to the carb , the firewall works.
Chase this a lot in AZ. It was enough of an issue that Toyota started installing carb cooling fans on the 2F after octanes dropped and smog motors ran warmer

I have a fuel pressure regulator close to the carburetor. Maybe it is set too high??

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I need to start carrying some with me.

Electric choke

Weber 32/36 DGAV

Ugh. The Weber could be the problem. One bet is on a massive vacuum leak between the carb and janky adapter that presents when it gets warm.
No idea why people keep trying those on a 40. To each their own I guess.

I was having a no start issue with my old F150 and it turned out my timing was way out.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I have a fuel pressure regulator close to the carburetor. Maybe it is set too high??

I set mine at about 10psi before I finally threw my Weber in the garbage.

 

[JohnnyC]

Webers should start with one pump … when cold … the single pump sets the auto choke

On hot start it should start with no pump

The pressure regulator should be on 4psi

Could be a vacuum leak or valves need adjusting

 

[sleepycruiser]

Ugh. The Weber could be the problem. One bet is on a massive vacuum leak between the carb and janky adapter that presents when it gets warm.
No idea why people keep trying those on a 40. To each their own I guess.

I was having a no start issue with my old F150 and it turned out my timing was way out.

Webers should start with one pump … when cold … the single pump sets the auto choke

On hot start it should start with no pump

The pressure regulator should be on 4psi

Could be a vacuum leak or valves need adjusting

We just set the timing about 2 months ago. Carb was dialed in and zero vacuum leaks as we checked it with a gauge. The valves were adjusted at the same time and all were spot on.

The regulator is on 3psi.

 

[lcwizard]

I have a fuel pressure regulator close to the carburetor. Maybe it is set too high??

Does your regulator have a return? Are you circulating the fuel to keep it cool in the lines? To get the most out of them you should probably
have an electric fuel pump, something high volume. Weber actually made a kit to add a return port to their carbs strictly intended to bleed vapor back to the tank. This was back when Weber wasn't Chinese made. I don't know what they have now so I always run a tbi style electric pump with a return style regulator
if a Weber is involved in an Arizona summer situation. Might work fine in cooler climates but a long day driving in 100 plus will almost always end up in an episode or two. In a perfect world we wouldn't need a Weber for a Land Cruiser. Aisin would be building all the carbs

Weber Fuel Pump Regulator With Boost Reference Port (1.5-20lbs)

This fuel pressure regulator is designed to be used on any application that requires the fuel pressure to increase with manifold pressure - such as turbo charged engines.

www.lceperformance.com

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-881?seid=srese1&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1050470140&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4JbTBhCoARIsALWUaBvAVaOneci2peffSYhMMTN8alQ5uOOLStEHLemoATpHdvDPpJAdumYaAlMuEALw_wcB

 

[charliemeyer007]

Just because you checked back then on vac leaks, valve lash, ignition timing doesn't mean its all still good. The regulator could have went TU - have you checked it with a gauge?

 

[sleepycruiser]

Does your regulator have a return? Are you circulating the fuel to keep it cool in the lines? To get the most out of them you should probably
have an electric fuel pump, something high volume. Weber actually made a kit to add a return port to their carbs strictly intended to bleed vapor back to the tank. This was back when Weber wasn't Chinese made. I don't know what they have now so I always run a tbi style electric pump with a return style regulator
if a Weber is involved in an Arizona summer situation. Might work fine in cooler climates but a long day driving in 100 plus will almost always end up in an episode or two. In a perfect world we wouldn't need a Weber for a Land Cruiser. Aisin would be building all the carbs

Weber Fuel Pump Regulator With Boost Reference Port (1.5-20lbs)

This fuel pressure regulator is designed to be used on any application that requires the fuel pressure to increase with manifold pressure - such as turbo charged engines.

www.lceperformance.com

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-881?seid=srese1&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1050470140&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4JbTBhCoARIsALWUaBvAVaOneci2peffSYhMMTN8alQ5uOOLStEHLemoATpHdvDPpJAdumYaAlMuEALw_wcB

Here are a few pics

 

[sleepycruiser]

Just because you checked back then on vac leaks, valve lash, ignition timing doesn't mean its all still good. The regulator could have went TU - have you checked it with a gauge?

It was actually on 4 psi. I just moved it to 5.

One pump and it started….which hasn’t been the norm. I’ll drive it around for a bit and then come back home and see what it does.

Appreciate the info from everyone!!

 

[RevISK]

My Weber was so fickle, I felt like I never stopped fiddling with it.

Going back to an OE style carb has been one of the best things I’ve done for my 40 besides getting it to start.

When it cooperated, it ran great and was fantastic at altitude but there was never any consistency. They may have been good carbs once but they are trash now.

 

[lcwizard]

Here are a few pics

View attachment 4183576

View attachment 4183577

If you were running a return it would come off the regulator. I understand , many people run Webers with OK results. All the issues I've seen are heat soak related which is unsurprising when PHX summer temps will stay above 110 for weeks at a time. After running for hours in the heat you can feel the feed line
with your hand and it's noticeably hot at the carb. Adding a high volume pump and a return at the regulator and the line stays cool even after a long hot trip
as the fuel keeps circulating back to the tank to cool down

 

[sleepycruiser]

My Weber was so fickle, I felt like I never stopped fiddling with it.

Going back to an OE style carb has been one of the best things I’ve done for my 40 besides getting it to start.

When it cooperated, it ran great and was fantastic at altitude but there was never any consistency. They may have been good carbs once but they are trash now.

Is there a carb that would be a drop in…the Weber is a double barrel so anything that would limit swap out work on my end. Of course if there is a better solution that isn’t a 9 banana job I’d be all ears. I’m terrible at carbs…