Won’t crank after driving…..

[sleepycruiser]

If you were running a return it would come off the regulator. I understand , many people run Webers with OK results. All the issues I've seen are heat soak related which is unsurprising when PHX summer temps will stay above 110 for weeks at a time. After running for hours in the heat you can feel the feed line
with your hand and it's noticeably hot at the carb. Adding a high volume pump and a return at the regulator and the line stays cool even after a long hot trip
as the fuel keeps circulating back to the tank to cool down

I have a new radiator and rebuilt water pump and thermostat. The temp gauge rarely gets over 185 degrees for the coolant side. Outside temp yesterday was under 80 degrees and it was only a 6 minute drive initially.

 

[RevISK]

Is there a carb that would be a drop in…the Weber is a double barrel so anything that would limit swap out work on my end. Of course if there is a better solution that isn’t a 9 banana job I’d be all ears. I’m terrible at carbs…

You’ll have to source linkage parts and the insulator but I put a Fuji (Aisin clone) from City Racer in.
Very pleased and it gave me time to source an AISIN to rebuild and put in but the carb works so well it stays for the foreseeable future.

 

[lcwizard]

My Weber was so fickle, I felt like I never stopped fiddling with it.

Going back to an OE style carb has been one of the best things I’ve done for my 40 besides getting it to start.

When it cooperated, it ran great and was fantastic at altitude but there was never any consistency. They may have been good carbs once but they are trash now.

problem is that there are a lot of Chinese counterfits. The originals were Italian. The new ones should be made in Spain. In the 70s I had one on a baja VW that was Italian. It was OK but best wide open which is how you ran your VWs off road back then. Baja bugs kinda sucked at rock crawling

 

[sleepycruiser]

I found one of these somewhat local….says it is an aftermarket Aisin 3662 for $150, but I believe I posted this before and it was determine not real Aisin. This looks similar to the Fuji, but I am not sure.

Edit: the one below looks like this one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9WFXVNL?tag=ihco-20

 

[lcwizard]

I have a new radiator and rebuilt water pump and thermostat. The temp gauge rarely gets over 185 degrees for the coolant side. Outside temp yesterday was under 80 degrees and it was only a 6 minute drive initially.

It's never about engine temps. A 2F or F in good shape should never overheat. The ratio of iron to HP doesn't allow that. It's just the underhood temps. Here, the introduction of Ethanol to gas created a lot of side effects including the deterioration of fuel lines and seals withing the fuel system

 

[hobbes]

Easy enough to add a fuel return. You can find usually find a metal inline fuel filter sitting on the shelf at your local parts store that has three barbs. Plumb it in between the pump and the carb. Hook up the side barb to your fuel return if it’s been capped. See if that helps.

Post in thread 'Fuel Pressure Regulator (no Fuel return question)'

Nov 25, 2019

When I had that setup, and lived in a hot climate, I struggled with vapor lock. If you run into that, there's a metal inline fuel filter with a return outlet that you can run back with minimal effort to help keep the fuel cool. Found on the shelf of your local Autozone or the like.

• hobbes

• 

 

[sleepycruiser]

Easy enough to add a fuel return. You can find usually find a metal inline fuel filter sitting on the shelf at your local parts store that has three barbs. Plumb it in between the pump and the carb. Hook up the side barb to your fuel return if it’s been capped. See if that helps.

So something like this? Which one is the return on the carb??

Duralast Fuel Filter FF3421DL
https://www.autozone.com/p/duralast...ypeId=6&vehicleTypeName=Car+&+Truck&year=2011

 

[RevISK]

So something like this? Which one is the return on the carb??

Duralast Fuel Filter FF3421DL
https://www.autozone.com/p/duralast-fuel-filter-ff3421dl/830814?vehicleId=0&makeId=76&makeName=Toyota&modelId=1037&modelName=Tacoma&vehicleTypeId=6&vehicleTypeName=Car+&+Truck&year=2011

Yes, exactly. Those are also regulated to around 4psi I think so it can take the place of your regulator. I know these things because I walked this path trying (in vane) to make my Weber (which I had nothing to do with putting on) behave.

 

[hobbes]

I added a photo above. Like @lcwizard pointed out, I struggled with vapor lock in AZ. I also had a Weber and the return line was sealed.

The side barb gives the fuel somewhere to go as it heats and expands when you shut off the engine. Only costs $10 to try I suppose...

 

[sleepycruiser]

Yes, exactly. Those are also regulated to around 4psi I think so it can take the place of your regulator. I know these things because I walked this path trying (in vane) to make my Weber (which I had nothing to do with putting on) behave.

I added a photo above. Like @lcwizard pointed out, I struggled with vapor lock in AZ. I also had a Weber and the return line was sealed.

The side barb gives the fuel somewhere to go as it heats and expands when you shut off the engine. Only costs $10 to try I suppose...

Got it and the capped off part here is where I would run to the side of the 3 barb filter??

 

[hobbes]

No. Nothing that hard. It gets spliced into the rubber line between the pump and the carb.

You can see the fuel pump and side cover if you look closely at my photo.

If it works you can always add a fuel pump with a fuel return on it. Those were the later models. And I'm assuming you don't already have one installed. I should have asked that first. If so this probably won't help...