Wits End Turbo Owners (5 Viewers)

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curious if guys have upgraded their rads as part of the build what you are going with? I know Ron Davis is the premium option but I see that Rock Auto has an all metal CSF rad for less than half the price.
I put a Ron Davis and refreshed all the cooling components. Radiators, Intercoolers and coolers in general are usually a “you get what you pay for” item.
 
curious if guys have upgraded their rads as part of the build what you are going with? I know Ron Davis is the premium option but I see that Rock Auto has an all metal CSF rad for less than half the price.
If "all metal" means brass, it likely does not cool as well as any of the plastic/aluminum options, OEM or aftermarket. I got the cheap-as-they-come TYC 1918 and immediately saw lower temps compared to the brass radiator it replaced. Although brass would probably be fine for a northerner like yourself.
 
Thanks. I am being quoted $700 CDN for a oem Denso or $350 ish CDN for the Koyorad. With the exchange rate a $1000 USD Ron Davis ends up being close to $1400 before shipping. Think the Koyo will be fine up here. Ordered some hood vents too.
 
OEM is not Denso, I bought 2 Denso's in the past year and both leaked. Bought OEM from Toyota $350 USD. So far so good
 
what gauge mounts are guys using? I ordered this one but the dash is slightly round anywhere close to where I would mount it so not sure I will use it. Amazon product ASIN B00IRZ4HHW
picked up a Innovate PSB-1 AFR and boost gauge.
 
OEM is not Denso, I bought 2 Denso's in the past year and both leaked. Bought OEM from Toyota $350 USD. So far so good
I believe the OEM radiators used for the land cruiser are KOYO. Denso does obviously make a ton of OEM stuff for our Toyota's but I think the original was KOYO in the case of radiators.
 
I believe the OEM radiators used for the land cruiser are KOYO. Denso does obviously make a ton of OEM stuff for our Toyota's but I think the original was KOYO in the case of radiators.
No. OEM Radiators are TRAD.
 
How are you folks dealing with fuel management? Turboed or S/C’ed?
Piggy back ECU? 7th injector? Injector upgrades, which don’t really make sense but I am curious. Intake manifold upgrade with additional injectors? Never heard anyone say they have cracked a 1fzfe ECU for tuning. So maybe I missed that but I doubt it. How are you tuning for boost? Just adjusting timing or are you not even doing that?

How many of you are running an intercooler? What kind of EGTs are you seeing with or without?

What kind of boost are you running? What rpms does boost come on? Where does it flat line?

I truly am curious because #1 to me there is a lot more to adding boost be it a turbo or S/C than just slapping it on and #2 I have a brand new 1FZFE going in my truck and am toying with ideas.

Cheers
 
How are you folks dealing with fuel management? Turboed or S/C’ed?
Piggy back ECU? 7th injector? Injector upgrades, which don’t really make sense but I am curious. Intake manifold upgrade with additional injectors? Never heard anyone say they have cracked a 1fzfe ECU for tuning. So maybe I missed that but I doubt it. How are you tuning for boost? Just adjusting timing or are you not even doing that?

How many of you are running an intercooler? What kind of EGTs are you seeing with or without?

What kind of boost are you running? What rpms does boost come on? Where does it flat line?

I truly am curious because #1 to me there is a lot more to adding boost be it a turbo or S/C than just slapping it on and #2 I have a brand new 1FZFE going in my truck and am toying with ideas.

Cheers

Stock ECU can handle up to 7psi in open loop.
Past that you need to go into a piggy back situation.
This kit is no intercooler, though some are fabbing up solutions for that or meth injection.
The kit is set to hit around 7psi with an external wastegate. I build boost very fast and starting in the 1500 range depending how i'm driving.
Read the bolt on turbo thread. hundreds of pages of information discussing all this.
 
To make the most of the turbo, you would want to run a standalone ECU so you can control fueling and timing. But you will not pass emissions with a standalone ECU. I have been running a standalone turbo for 6+ years, with an A/W intercooler and it has been a nice setup. A lot of ways to skin a cat.


How are you folks dealing with fuel management? Turboed or S/C’ed?
Piggy back ECU? 7th injector? Injector upgrades, which don’t really make sense but I am curious. Intake manifold upgrade with additional injectors? Never heard anyone say they have cracked a 1fzfe ECU for tuning. So maybe I missed that but I doubt it. How are you tuning for boost? Just adjusting timing or are you not even doing that?

How many of you are running an intercooler? What kind of EGTs are you seeing with or without?

What kind of boost are you running? What rpms does boost come on? Where does it flat line?

I truly am curious because #1 to me there is a lot more to adding boost be it a turbo or S/C than just slapping it on and #2 I have a brand new 1FZFE going in my truck and am toying with ideas.

Cheers
 
Stock ECU can handle up to 7psi in open loop.
Past that you need to go into a piggy back situation.
This kit is no intercooler, though some are fabbing up solutions for that or meth injection.
The kit is set to hit around 7psi with an external wastegate. I build boost very fast and starting in the 1500 range depending how i'm driving.
Read the bolt on turbo thread. hundreds of pages of information discussing all this.

Don’t have time to read hundreds of pages. I work A LOT. Thank you for your comments though.

7psi is pretty low, is that standard? I ran 14psi on a 5vz in an 04 Taco. So boost kicks in at 1500? Where does power drop off or does it hold till 5000?

Are you monitoring your EGTs? I know a local guy to me who has the S/C, no matter what he does (all the mods including meth injection) his EGTs are high, way to high for me.

Cheers
 
Don’t have time to read hundreds of pages. I work A LOT. Thank you for your comments though.

7psi is pretty low, is that standard? I ran 14psi on a 5vz in an 04 Taco. So boost kicks in at 1500? Where does power drop off or does it hold till 5000?

Are you monitoring your EGTs? I know a local guy to me who has the S/C, no matter what he does (all the mods including meth injection) his EGTs are high, way to high for me.

Cheers

Don't we all... Priorities i guess.

Yes, 7 PSI is low, but significant on a very low running stock 4.5L.
It doesn't make it fast, but it gives more than enough power to keep up with/pass a 100 series/new 4runner.
It made my cruiser go from "this sucks" on big passes loaded down to cruising at 75+.

I'm not monitoring my EGTs though i know some guys are.
Boost kicks in somewhere around there, i'll try and pay better attention. It holds power well to redline/shift points.
This is a bigass turbo for its application.
 
To make the most of the turbo, you would want to run a standalone ECU so you can control fueling and timing. But you will not pass emissions with a standalone ECU. I have been running a standalone turbo for 6+ years, with an A/W intercooler and it has been a nice setup. A lot of ways to skin a cat.

What standalone ECU are people running? 7th injector? If so how is it plumbed?

Cheers
 
I am using a Haltech ECU, but you could use anything you feel comfortable with. AEM, Haltech, Motec, Link, Adaptronic, etc. It really just depends on your budget and how comfortable you are tuning. The actual wiring is super easy you really only need like 4 wires.

No need for a 7th injector if you use a standalone, you can adjust injector pulse width on the stock injectors or you could put in bigger injectors like I did and control those. The standalone really adds a lot of possibility and the sky is the limit; coil-on-plug, E85, maps for regular and premium, etc.

What standalone ECU are people running? 7th injector? If so how is it plumbed?

Cheers
 
I am using a Haltech ECU, but you could use anything you feel comfortable with. AEM, Haltech, Motec, Link, Adaptronic, etc. It really just depends on your budget and how comfortable you are tuning. The actual wiring is super easy you really only need like 4 wires.

No need for a 7th injector if you use a standalone, you can adjust injector pulse width on the stock injectors or you could put in bigger injectors like I did and control those. The standalone really adds a lot of possibility and the sky is the limit; coil-on-plug, E85, maps for regular and premium, etc.

Is the haltech you are using a plug and play ecu?
:beer:
 
Don't we all... Priorities i guess.

Yes, 7 PSI is low, but significant on a very low running stock 4.5L.
It doesn't make it fast, but it gives more than enough power to keep up with/pass a 100 series/new 4runner.
It made my cruiser go from "this sucks" on big passes loaded down to cruising at 75+.

I'm not monitoring my EGTs though i know some guys are.
Boost kicks in somewhere around there, i'll try and pay better attention. It holds power well to redline/shift points.
This is a bigass turbo for its application.
Wait.... Bigger than needed turbo.... Low boost?
Y’all think maybe uncle Joeys goal was to have a smog legal reliable unit.
Now let’s see who’s the first one to void the warranties and turn it up to 11......
 
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