Build Wilma Build

[LLTB]

Prime time to change fuel filter and the pesky heater hose if you haven’t already. Could also check valve lash and see if everything is still in spec

Also distributor cap is all you’ll need which is chillin in a box waiting to go out the door

Cool. Fuel filter is on the way from the dealer along with gaskets. The fuel system will be completely new thanks to your big fuel kit parts.

Glad I ordered those ignition parts from you. LOL

I need to research how to check valve lash.

 

[LLTB]

Straining my used degreaser from my Super High-Tech Parts Cleaner so I can reuse it. Yes, it does work. It’s better with coffee filters but I ran out so I’m using shop towels.

After. Look at the sludge the paper towels took out. Nasty. Degreaser is good to reuse.

 

[LLTB]

My gauge pod arrived all the way from New Zealand. It said it was for 91-98 80 series steering column but it doesn’t fit my steering column. My 1997 steering column trim pieces are a bit more flat, so there is an awkward round gap.

Are earlier year steering columns more rounded?

Either way, it’s not usable because the adhesive tape doesn’t even close the gap, and I feel it’s blocking the view of my cluster too much (see next pic).

Seem like a better idea to just go A Pillar and move my ham radio somewhere else.

Johnny - better get off your butt and make another A pillar 3-gauge pod haha

 

[LLTB]

Throttle body cleaned up. Now for the intake manifold.

 

[LLTB]

Is this entire rats nest under the upper intake manifold all to do with EGR??? All these parts and hoses are brittle as a hell.

While I’m waiting for my intake to soak in the Super High-Tech Parts Cleaner (I’m going to trademark that), I decided to do something useful.

Pulled the lower pan and drilled the holes. Pulling the pan was harder.

I used a step bit for the 9/16” hole. I used my cobalt bits for the others but I’m not done with those yet. I only had up to 15/64” so I ordered a 17/64” cobalt bit to finish those so I can tap them. I used Rapid Tap oil and went super slow RPM. The bits all cut like cheese. Easy.

 

[LLTB]

Little more progress today.

Intake manifold primed and painted.

Dropped some bits off for Cerakote.

Sanded, rust converted, re-sanded, primed, re-sanded, re-primed…

…and painted the air box cover.

Media blasted these exhaust bits.

 

[LLTB]

Heat shields turned out awesome. Used VHT Flame Proof paint and primer.

While I’m waiting for the Cerakote parts to get done I thought I’d tackle the fuel stuff.

No idea how to do any of this. Gonna figure it out.

I believe what we have here are (top, left to right) a wiring kit for the new fuel pump, new injectors with sumitomo adapters, a fuel pump with screen kit, and a fuel pressure regulator?

I don’t see any instructions for the pump or regulator.

I think I’ll start with the injectors. Those are probably a bit more obvious.

 

[LLTB]

Fuel rail off, old injectors removed, new injectors in the rail. The new ones fit a bit loosely but C&C says that's normal.

While I have the fuel rail off, I'm thinking I should do the fuel filter and regulator? I need to go research those before I start. I *think* I can see the fuel filter...

The 17/64" bit I ordered to finish tapping for the turbo oil return finally came so I got back under the truck. Unfortunately, even with my smallest drill, the bit was too long for me to get the drill lined up for a straight hole, so I asked a neighbor and he lent me this nifty thing. "Drill 90". Never seen these before! It worked great!

That did the trick. I was able get the drill lined up straight and the holes done. Tapping was quick. Now I need to figure out how to clean up all these aluminum shavings out. Any suggestions?

 

[LLTB]

A couple of other developments...

Cerakote Salt Lake called me and said my parts were ready!

I love the bronze color that I've seen some others do on the forum, and I almost went that route. But I wanted it to be different and unique, and so I went with this Blue Titanium color. It has a bit of metallic flake, but it's subtle. I love it!

And they threw in some cool patches for the truck too. Woody's ready for action.

So of course I had to take a break from the fuel system to put the turbo back together and drool over it!

My ignition bits and catch can arrived from @Cruisers and Co ! I think I have everything I need except for a better gauge pod (Johnny, I want one of those 3 x A-pillar pods) and some exhaust manifold gaskets that I'm waiting on from the dealer.

OK back to the fuel system. I'm off to research how to do the filter and where the stock regulator is. I have no idea how this regulator from C&C goes in... LOL

 

[LLTB]

I was able get the drill lined up straight and the holes done. Tapping was quick. Now I need to figure out how to clean up all these aluminum shavings out. Any suggestions?

View attachment 4219581

I put my fingers up in there and got a bunch of shavings out, but I'm positive there are more I can't feel. What's the best way to flush those out?

 

[efjayatee]

You're making great progress.

 

[LLTB]

OK, I just cleaned off my exuahst manifolds (the "new" used one I got as a replacement plus my other one) and primed them. While the primer is drying, I'm taking a stab at the fuel filter.

This thread seems helpful for replacing a fuel filter:

Thread 'Where the heck is the fuel filter? I must just be missing it. 1997'

Jun 9, 2021

I'm slowly going through the 97 Series 80 and wanted to change out the fuel filter as its likely original with 300,000 miles on it I was all set with filter in hand and..... where the heck is it located?

Thanks
Dave

• tooofast2002
• Replies: 13
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

• 
• 

And this video is great:



For my own reference -- it's worth noting that in this YouTube video at 4:30 he has some great photos of where the knock sensors are. I'll be replacing mine.

I did decide to do the "slot" trick to ease install.

I think since I had the fuel rail off already that there wasn't any pressure in the fuel lines because hardly any fuel came out when I got the old filter off. The slot trick did help. The hardest part for me was getting the back banjo bolt tightened. I was able to torque the front banjo bolt but not the back one. My torque wrench wouldn't fit. For me it was easier to get to the fasteners from the wheel well.

Fuel filter is done.

I can see how it would be a good idea to do the knock sensors right now while I have the driver front wheel off, so I'm going to take a look at doing that.

These are the sensors that I picked up from @Cruisers and Co .

 

[Cruisers and Co]

A couple of other developments...

Cerakote Salt Lake called me and said my parts were ready!

View attachment 4219613

I love the bronze color that I've seen some others do on the forum, and I almost went that route. But I wanted it to be different and unique, and so I went with this Blue Titanium color. It has a bit of metallic flake, but it's subtle. I love it!

View attachment 4219614

And they threw in some cool patches for the truck too. Woody's ready for action.

View attachment 4219597

So of course I had to take a break from the fuel system to put the turbo back together and drool over it!

View attachment 4219619

My ignition bits and catch can arrived from @Cruisers and Co ! I think I have everything I need except for a better gauge pod (Johnny, I want one of those 3 x A-pillar pods) and some exhaust manifold gaskets that I'm waiting on from the dealer.

OK back to the fuel system. I'm off to research how to do the filter and where the stock regulator is. I have no idea how this regulator from C&C goes in... LOL

That looks great!

 

[LLTB]

Got the knock sensors done and torqued.

Compared to the new Bosch sensors, the originals look like antiques! I need to do the wiring on the knock sensors - Johnny sent me instructions for wiring them to the ECU, so I need to digest that.

When threading in the new knock sensor studs, I did the front stud by hand, then hung the sensor on it, then started the nylock nut. On the back one, it was just faster and easier to assemble the stud / sensor / nylock nut together first by hand and then use my 13mm socket and an extension and run it into the block by hand (no ratchet) to get the stud seated. Then I torqued them both to 11 ft lbs / 132 inch pds.

Exhaust manifolds look great. Super happy with em.

 

[LLTB]

Any recommendations on a heat wrap to replace this fraying factory heat tape on this throttle cable? I want something effective and there are a billion questionable Chinese heat tapes on Amazon.

 

[LLTB]

I'm glad I decided to do the motor mounts. They were completely shot. Here is the passenger used and new motor mounts side by side. The new one is actually taller, showing just how much these motor mounts can compress over time. Notice how the top plate is completely separated from the rubber on the old mount.

Got both motor mounts replaced. The engine mount nuts were really bad, so i just put them on loosely and will order replacements before I torque everything.

In a total rookie move, I installed the first new motor mount without the metal "shroud" lid thing on top, so I had to do it a second time to get that on.

I had the oil pan off from my previous drilling for the turbo oil return, so I used a 2x4 vertically on my jack to get the motor lifted. Since I had the valve cover, upper intake plenum and fan shroud off, I think it made raising the engine a bit easier, perhaps?

I started on the transmission mount by putting my jack under the cross member and removed the bolts holding it in place. As I lowered my jack, I realized that it was holding up the transmission and that I didn't have any other support for the transmission in place. Not having any jacks with me, I decided to wait on replacing this mount.

Since I pulled the fan shroud and fan to be able to raise the motor, I swapped the fan clutch out with a new blue fan clutch. Old one is fine, if anyone wants it. This is just preventative.

This project is exploding into "while you're in there" stuff. I had to bust out the tables to keep things organized and off the floor. Would be nice to be able to do this in a garage instead of on the driveway!

 

[LLTB]

Tranny isolator is in. It was not as easy as many videos make it out to be. Mainly because my OEM cross member was replaced with a big armor plate which doubles as a cross member and armor. It's pretty heavy and has large surface area to protect the transmission and gear box. So I couldn't easily get jacks under the tranny to support it with the armor being in the way. But I managed it - then dropped the armor, and hurried and swapped the isolator.

The old bushing was definitely not as delaminated as the motor mounts were - I think there is less vibration back there, or maybe it was just replaced more recently. Either way, it's done now.

 

[LLTB]

I just spent an hour poking around from the open oil pan area trying to get all the aluminum shavings out from having drilled the oil bung.

I'm really struggling to feel confident that I got all of the shavings out.

Would love any suggestions anyone has to make sure I got them all.

 

[wyota884]

I just spent an hour poking around from the open oil pan area trying to get all the aluminum shavings out from having drilled the oil bung.

I'm really struggling to feel confident that I got all of the shavings out.

Would love any suggestions anyone has to make sure I got them all.

View attachment 4226045

View attachment 4226046

Had the same situation. I did the grease on the drill bit trick to try and minimize the chips. Still had quite a bit. I went through several cans of brake clean, sprayed, wiped, stuck my fingers up there until I didn't find anymore. Then went back and did the same thing over again, several more cans of brake clean. I was confident I removed all the debris, but never 100% certain. 2k miles later, I haven't had any issues.

 

[LLTB]

Had the same situation. I did the grease on the drill bit trick to try and minimize the chips. Still had quite a bit. I went through several cans of brake clean, sprayed, wiped, stuck my fingers up there until I didn't find anymore. Then went back and did the same thing over again, several more cans of brake clean. I was confident I removed all the debris, but never 100% certain. 2k miles later, I haven't had any issues.

This is exactly what I've done. I think after 1000 miles I'll drain the oil, then again after another 1000. Might be overkill, but it would only take one of those shavings being sucked up the oil return to get into a cylinder and ruin my month.

Glad to hear you haven't had any issues. I think I did 3 cans of brake cleaner, and 2 quarts of oil-- one from the top over the valves, and a second one via syringe from the outside of the newly drilled holes. Inside, I did q-tips, pipe cleaner brushes, and my fingers. I can't feel anything more in there.

Crossing my fingers.

In the install video, I see Johnny drilling the thermostat housing for a coolant line fitting and it looks like I'll have the same problem there... Was that as big of a problem? I'm assuming I can just remove the thermostat housing and pull the shavings out easily there.