Build Wilma Build

[Dissent]

Burrito basket must come out.

View attachment 4212216

One burrito basket up for grabs

Oh man, that's the saddest thing...I've actually postponed my Turbo pursuits over the past few years to keep my burrito tray intact. I use it every time we go out wheeling and it's legendary in my new club in TN. Need a Pro-Turbo Burrito Tray solution someone!

 

[LLTB]

Oh man, that's the saddest thing...I've actually postponed my Turbo pursuits over the past few years to keep my burrito tray intact. I use it every time we go out wheeling and it's legendary in my new club in TN. Need a Pro-Turbo Burrito Tray solution someone!

If anyone in your club wants this one, I'll let it go if they'll cover shipping.

 

[LLTB]

PB blasted the Y pipe nuts and they came right off from below.

But I have a problem. The connection from Y pipe to exhaust manifold is supposed to be with double threaded studs into the exhaust manifold flanges, and then nuts holding the Y pipe on.

On my truck someone used incorrectly sized bolts into the front two flange holes instead of the studs, and stripped the holes. They used nuts on the top side to hold them in.

So I can thread in the new studs for the back flange, but on the front flange I need another solution. The old (incorrect bolts) were not even the right thread pitch, so they stripped the inside threads of the exhaust flange completely. The new studs won’t thread in.

I’m afraid there isn’t enough metal there now to even retap them to the correct size. They seem to have been widened. So I might have to go up a size.

Or replace the exhaust manifold completely.

On a related note, I have struggled solving a problem of exhaust fumes inside the truck. Maybe this front flange didn’t have a good connection and is the culprit. Maybe replacing the manifold is a good idea.

Anyone want to sell me a manifold?

 

[Cruisers and Co]

PB blasted the Y pipe nuts and they came right off from below.

But I have a problem. The connection from Y pipe to exhaust manifold is supposed to be with double threaded studs into the exhaust manifold flanges, and then nuts holding the Y pipe on.

On my truck someone used incorrectly sized bolts into the front two flange holes instead of the studs, and stripped the holes. They used nuts on the top side to hold them in.

View attachment 4212684

View attachment 4212682

So I can thread in the new studs for the back flange, but on the front flange I need another solution. The old (incorrect bolts) were not even the right thread pitch, so they stripped the inside threads of the exhaust flange completely. The new studs won’t thread in.

I’m afraid there isn’t enough metal there now to even retap them to the correct size. They seem to have been widened. So I might have to go up a size.

Or replace the exhaust manifold completely.

On a related note, I have struggled solving a problem of exhaust fumes inside the truck. Maybe this front flange didn’t have a good connection and is the culprit. Maybe replacing the manifold is a good idea.

Anyone want to sell me a manifold?

Absolutely worst case you run a bolt and nut combo

Or buy new manifolds.

Gotta love PO’s…

 

[LLTB]

Absolutely worst case you run a bolt and nut combo

Or buy new manifolds.

Gotta love PO’s…

I think I’ll do a new manifold. At this point it can’t be that much more work, can it? I can pull the heat shields too and drill out and tap those holes too.

 

[MissahPapaJ]

I think I’ll do a new manifold. At this point it can’t be that much more work, can it? I can pull the heat shields too and drill out and tap those holes too.

What about drilling it out and stabbing in a rib nut

 

[LLTB]

What about drilling it out and stabbing in a rib nut

Hadn't thought of that. Would it hold up to the heat? That's a great idea... I've never used them before. I assume I need a special tool to set them.

Replacement front manifold, used $50
Gasket, new manifold bolts $113 from dealer (includes bolts for the heat shield also)

 

[LLTB]

More goodies just came…

I picked these gauges because I think they’ll look the closest match color-wise to the OE instrument cluster. Black BG snd green lights.

I ordered a 3D printed gauge pod for the steering column. I know that there are some other options. I really don’t want it on my A pillar and the overhead sunroof button area feels unnatural to be looking up there.

Hopefully this doesn’t crowd out my view of the instrument cluster too much. I guess if I don’t like it, it can always be changed…

 

[LLTB]

What about drilling it out and stabbing in a rib nut

I did a little research on the rivnuts. They won't hold up to the expansion and contraction heat of the exhaust manifold. I would need something more secure like a helicoil.

I think I'll just pick up a replacement manifold from my local yard. It's only $50 and then I'll have peace of mind about it and HOPEFULLY it will solve the smell issue I've been having in the cab too.

 

[jeremy j]

I'm very interested to see how those gauges match. They are pretty reasonably priced.

 

[LLTB]

I decided to pull these exhaust heat shields off so I could more easily remove the exhaust Y pipe and the very first bolt broke right off.

Does this mean they’re all going to break off?

What’s the solution here? Any tips? I don’t want to have to drill and tap all six of these…

View attachment 4212226

OK 1. you don’t need to take the heat shields off to remove the stock exhaust Y pipe. You can get it out easily enough from below. I was able to squirt some PB blaster on the Y pipe studs from above (through the heat shield holes) and also from below and let it soak overnight and the studs came right off.

2. as for the heat shields, same thing. After breaking the first bolt like a dumbass, I soaked the other five with PB blaster multiple times over a 24 hour period. Basically, every time I walked past the land cruiser, I gave them another squirt. And just now I tried them and they all came right out no problem, almost no resistance. A little PB blaster, a little patience.

Picked up a replacement front exhaust manifold from the pick and pull.

 

[LLTB]

I'm very interested to see how those gauges match. They are pretty reasonably priced.

Me too! I’ll be sure to take lots of photos and video.

 

[Cruisers and Co]

Me too! I’ll be sure to take lots of photos and video.

iCloud Photos - Apple iCloud

View, organize, and share photos and videos with iCloud Photos on the web. Changes will sync across your devices with iCloud.

share.icloud.com

 

[LLTB]

iCloud Photos - Apple iCloud

View, organize, and share photos and videos with iCloud Photos on the web. Changes will sync across your devices with iCloud.

share.icloud.com

Sick. Johnny which A pillar gauge pod is that?

 

[LLTB]

Got the stripped front exhaust manifold out. PB blaster on the bolts overnight a few times and no issues. Decided to take the back one out also and replace my gaskets. I don’t know where this exhaust smell in the cab has been coming from but I’m half way there anyway.

Back manifold just has that last 7th nut next to the firewall left. Haven’t figured out how to get that off yet.

 

[Cruisers and Co]

Sick. Johnny which A pillar gauge pod is that?

That's a C&C special, currently 1 of 2. I revised the 2 pod for @Ecliff5 and it turned out pretty good. I still need to revise the 3 pod, let me know if I need to get my ass in gear and get that done lol

 

[LLTB]

That's a C&C special, currently 1 of 2. I revised the 2 pod for @Ecliff5 and it turned out pretty good. I still need to revise the 3 pod, let me know if I need to get my ass in gear and get that done lol

I think I’d like that better than the steering column one I ordered. At least for 3 gauges… it seems to be blocking my view of the instrument cluster more than I had wanted.

 

[LLTB]

Back manifold off. Just had to be patient on the 6th and 7th nuts/studs. Started with a deep socket and as I backed it out and hit the firewall I swapped to standard socket. Used some brake cleaner to gently clean the surfaces of the head where the exhaust gaskets go. Plastic scraper and then paper towel.

Realizing that for my big fuel kit parts (including injectors) from C&C I’ll have to remove the throttle body and top half of the intake manifold so I can access the fuel rail. Before I do that, I need to drain the coolant apparently, according to the FSM.

With my ARB front bumper and armor it’s impossible to reach the radiator peacock. So I’ll use a bucket and disconnect the lower radiator hose instead.

 

[LLTB]

Coolant is drained.

Intake manifold is off. Throttle body is off. Valve cover is off.

Did a little pre-cleaning and removed the gaskets. A short soak in the Super High-Tech Parts Cleaner got most of it.

All the giblets are off and will go for coating Monday morning. Still have a little prep to do with the intake and throttle body.

I need a new distributor. When removing the spark plug wires I noticed one of them had literally welded to the distributor socket. When I pulled it came apart.

Is there anything I should look at / inspect while I have the valve cover off?

 

[Cruisers and Co]

View attachment 4215901

Coolant is drained.

Intake manifold is off. Throttle body is off. Valve cover is off.

View attachment 4215902
Did a little pre-cleaning and removed the gaskets. Purple degreaser and elbow grease got most of it.

View attachment 4215903
All the giblets are off and will go for coating Monday morning. Still have a little prep to do with the intake and throttle body.

View attachment 4215906
I need a new distributor. When removing the spark plug wires I noticed one of them had literally welded to the distributor socket. When I pulled it came apart.

Is there anything I should look at / inspect while I have the valve cover off?

Prime time to change fuel filter and the pesky heater hose if you haven’t already. Could also check valve lash and see if everything is still in spec

Also distributor cap is all you’ll need which is chillin in a box waiting to go out the door