What size fuses should I replace my fuseable links with

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I'm not sure I get the jist of this. Factory FL replacements are available at this time, and a boonie get-out-to-civilization (... and I'm using this term rather loosely when it comes to the US these days...) fix for when no spare is available isn't that much out of this world.

And it's the same with regular fuses: just replacing a fuse with a new one in case of a failure might not go very far without determining the cause of the failure - FLs aren't much different in that regard.

If anyone feels the need to re-engineer ths FLs - fine, go ahead, perhaps you would care to provide the proper numbers that serve as the basis for the newfangled gizmo. Hell, this has worked for bumpers without worrying But any numbers etc. - so, let's go ahead...

Other than that, keep in mind that the best backup solution for unexpected breakdowns is simply a having a second truck.

That's fine, if you just accept everything "as is"..... more power to you. But, I like to figure things out, and build things better. Hell, why didn't we just keep the model T? It worked, and served the purpose! Right? As far as spares "simply having a second truck" makes no sense at all. I don't run in your local heep clubs. Or down in the sand pits with Rocko, Huck, and Cooter! I run East to West, North to South. When I hit an ocean you either load it up, or turn around! Hell, I'm 50, and have been retired from the Corps since 2007, so I have nothing but time to explore. That is why I need a better solution than "just carry 10 spares" or "have Cooter follow you in a spare". Who's paying Cooters way? Doesn't make very good financial sense.... does it? There are sheep, and there are wolves, choose which one you want to be.
 
IF you have to rig something when out bush, then the following will give some idea of the current capacity of the fusible links.

Fusing Currents versus American Wire Gauge for copper, aluminum, iron, and tin (Cu, Al, Fe, Sn), wire melting currents

The EWD has some of the info you need to choose the wire diameter that would provide similar 'protection'. e.g. the 2.0L fusible link tells you that the wire is nominal 2 square millimeters, which is close to 1.6mm diameter. You can see from the URL that 1.6mm diameter of copper wire (un-insulated) will melt/fuse at around 160A in free air.

Note that the factory fusible links have silicone insulation to help 'contain' the melted wire and prevent damage to surrounding equipment etc.

Fuses that have a similar 'slow-blow' capability of a fusible link are the MIDI fuses. You can read up about them -> 32V MIDI Bolt-Down Fuses - Bolt-Down Fuses - Littelfuse

I've used the MIDI fuses on my oz patrol to replace the original fusible links since they are long obsolete AND I've reconfigured my patrol from 24V to 12V operation. The later required re-calculating loads in the fusible link paths (e.g. double the current from 12V alternator versus the original 24V), upgrading wiring as needed AND sizing the MIDI fuse appropriately.

On the 80, it's way easier to purchase what is still readily available. If *I* was to use a MIDI fuse in place of a fusible link I'd pick a fuse that is around 1/2 the melt/fusing rating. e.g. for the 2.0L link that has a approximate 160A melt point, I'd use an 80A MIDI fuse (maybe 100A at the most). This isn't what I recommend, just a thought experiment.

cheers,
george.

Thank you VERY MUCH George! As Jonheld is to the 3F, you are to electrical! I appreciate any/all advice you have to offer!
 
That's fine, if you just accept everything "as is"..... more power to you. But, I like to figure things out, and build things better. Hell, why didn't we just keep the model T? It worked, and served the purpose! Right? As far as spares "simply having a second truck" makes no sense at all. I don't run in your local heep clubs. Or down in the sand pits with Rocko, Huck, and Cooter! I run East to West, North to South. When I hit an ocean you either load it up, or turn around! Hell, I'm 50, and have been retired from the Corps since 2007, so I have nothing but time to explore. That is why I need a better solution than "just carry 10 spares" or "have Cooter follow you in a spare". Who's paying Cooters way? Doesn't make very good financial sense.... does it? There are sheep, and there are wolves, choose which one you want to be.

Technically if fused properly downstream, properly sized wire (which you assum it is from the factory) and properly protected wire you don't need a fusible link or a fuse. But, crap happens. My opinion is this, fusible links are the best way to protect wires between battery and fuse, usually in the fuse box. 1) they connect right at the battery so you don't have to worry about a wire short, even in your 4" of wire to your fuse holder. 2) those midi fuse holders are huge and you'll need more than one. They're also not given away.

Just to clarify, it just isn't toyota that uses fusible link wire....a good majority of vehicles on the road today have them.

I've thought about making my own fusible link wires, but they bolt up so nice and even have the connector. I could switch to metripack connectors which the terminals and everything else are readily available. I hate digging through my electrical stuff and crimping wires. Certainly not worth my time to save $9. What can I say, I'm lazy...
 
@Marine7 , by "better solution", do you mean less able to fail?

I look it as "engineering it to be the weakest link". If an electrical spike or gremlin will occur, I'd rather have the weakest link as the fusible link as a known area rather than damaging the wire loom.

I'd take @george_tlc TLC advice any day.

I think I know where you are. I know some of your co-workers. Say hello to Kevin N (retired SgtMaj) and Bob J (retired HMC SARC).
 
Don't say it is so. I belive that @Marine7 works for no-one. He is like Chuck Norris.
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@Marine7 , by "better solution", do you mean less able to fail?

I look it as "engineering it to be the weakest link". If an electrical spike or gremlin will occur, I'd rather have the weakest link as the fusible link as a known area rather than damaging the wire loom.

I'd take @george_tlc TLC advice any day.

I think I know where you are. I know some of your co-workers. Say hello to Kevin N (retired SgtMaj) and Bob J (retired HMC SARC).

Meaning "able to take a little more abuse, while still protecting, before failing". And if you have read any of my posts I would never question George's theories, same as Jonheld's, but I don't like to sit on my hands when I know that this 25-30 year old tech can, and should, be updated. Like I said.... a lot of "sheeple" around, " the I'm not touching it because Jimbo and Tator left theirs alone too". I prefer to say "screw Jimbo and Tator, let them sit, broken down". I prefer to ATTEMPT to make things better, if it doesn't work, no biggie.
 
Don't say it is so. I belive that @Marine7 works for no-one. He is like Chuck Norris.
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Your point?...... Do you have a point?
 
I think a lot of people are asking that in this thread
 
I think a lot of people are asking that in this thread

I think a lot of people are asking that in this thread

Then why do you keep clicking on it son?
You must really live a s***ty existence if you have nothing to do but read pointless posts...... wouldn't you say?
 
A bunch of reasons actually..

Ever heard of Don Quixote?

I enjoy watching trainwrecks. Also the social experiment that is frustrated people stooping to personal insults online.
 
Your point?...... Do you have a point?

It is a strange thing I was trying to do, so I understand how you did not see my point. It is called a "complement". Sometimes rare in these parts. It seems to me that you beat to your own drum, more people should try that.
 
A bunch of reasons actually..

Ever heard of Don Quixote?

I enjoy watching trainwrecks. Also the social experiment that is frustrated people stooping to personal insults online.

I guess I can't fault you for that. I just like how, if I'm trying to come with something.... it's a train wreck. I guess I don't understand how you can accuse me of insulting you online (which, yes I'm guilty of, I apologize) but, your insulting me at the same time....referring to this "train wreck". Have you ever seen my work? I don't recall meeting you, but.... whatever.
 
It is a strange thing I was trying to do, so I understand how you did not see my point. It is called a "complement". Sometimes rare in these parts. It seems to me that you beat to your own drum, more people should try that.

Lol.... I didn't catch it. Thank you though. And I'm sorry to all if I "offend" you. I do say what's on my mind, and it infuriates me when I see someone say one thing to a person, then "sugarcoat" it for the next. That's why I always prefer to talk "face to face".
 
I guess I can't fault you for that. I just like how, if I'm trying to come with something.... it's a train wreck. I guess I don't understand how you can accuse me of insulting you online (which, yes I'm guilty of, I apologize) but, your insulting me at the same time....referring to this "train wreck". Have you ever seen my work? I don't recall meeting you, but.... whatever.

Thanks for the apology. Technically it turned into a trainwreck when that got flung around. My pointless comment was referring to what some people apparently were thinking with regard to replacing the fusible links.. what's the point? People addressed what they thought were your complaints and you stay resolute.. so.. "because I want to" is good enough for me.

Personally I'm not going to let a dealer's incompetent parts department be ANY of the motivation for tearing out a system that works very well for most of us. That's a major part of why I won't walk in there or call without looking up part numbers myself first.

ALL of that said.. as a point of data my engine swap will include a 160A alternator which is double stock and too much for the fusible links, so I'm copying what GM did with the alternator charging circuit in the original chassis. A regular fast-burn 175A fuse. The rest of the chassis electrical systems will stay on the stock FLs out of simplicity.
 
Thanks for the apology. Technically it turned into a trainwreck when that got flung around. My pointless comment was referring to what some people apparently were thinking with regard to replacing the fusible links.. what's the point? People addressed what they thought were your complaints and you stay resolute.. so.. "because I want to" is good enough for me.

Personally I'm not going to let a dealer's incompetent parts department be ANY of the motivation for tearing out a system that works very well for most of us. That's a major part of why I won't walk in there or call without looking up part numbers myself first.

ALL of that said.. as a point of data my engine swap will include a 160A alternator which is double stock and too much for the fusible links, so I'm copying what GM did with the alternator charging circuit in the original chassis. A regular fast-burn 175A fuse. The rest of the chassis electrical systems will stay on the stock FLs out of simplicity.

Sounds like it will be nice! Can't wait to see it!
 
Wow, super impressed how cordial that got. Seriously. Anyway if you decide to proceed @Marine7 I will be following along. I know most people don't see the point, but its been on my mind ever since that trip.
 
Wow, super impressed how cordial that got. Seriously. Anyway if you decide to proceed @Marine7 I will be following along. I know most people don't see the point, but its been on my mind ever since that trip.

Lol.... I'm not accused of being "cordial" too often, so Thank You?
Anyways, presently I'm busy on my Boston Whaler, and just got back from a visit to Paris Island..... Sacred ground for me! I'll be doing this conversion sometime this summer!
 
I have been waiting to install my Sequoia alternator until I can figure out a really clean way of dealing with this issue. Will be interested to see what you do.
 
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