What size fuses should I replace my fuseable links with (1 Viewer)

[Marine7]

I went into my local Toyota Stealership, Wilmington NC, and the Moron running the parts dept had never heard of a fuseable link! He asked where they went, what they looked like, so finally I lost my mind a left the little s***head!
So, I guess I'll replace my links with fuses. I know 80 amps would pretty much cover everything, but can anyone tell me a rough guess how much each of the 3 links reguire? I appreciate your help.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Call John in parts at Toyota of Dallas . Mike

 

[Douglas S]

I know 80 amps would pretty much cover everything

That's not how it works. Get replacement fusible links.

 

[george_tlc]

A normal fuse is a bad idea. The fusible link is designed to fail 'after' a period of time (as it overheats), it is intended to protect the wiring and not blow due to a temporary high current event.

This is not an area that you want to meddle with or second guess toyota (that does know what their various harness cables are capable of carrying).

cheers,
george.

 

[Tedward]

You can tell that moron the following:

Anyone have the correct P/N for a '95 FZJ80? Replacing as part of gremlin hunt.

P/N FOUND

beno says same P/N fits all years

90982-08264

One link to rule them all.

Thanks beno!

 

[dcx13]

@NLXTACY has a fresh stock of them. I think they were around $13. Genuine Toyota OEM part.

 

[Manuelsv]

So what happens when they stop supplying these at the Stealership? I agree this is nothing that should be replaced with non oem parts!!!!

 

[NLXTACY]

So what happens when they stop supplying these at the Stealership? I agree this is nothing that should be replaced with non oem parts!!!!

There is plenty of stock on these with no indication that they will be moved into the grey area. If they did then someone like me would develop a replacement but for a $13 part there is zero need to.

 

[dcx13]

So what happens when they stop supplying these at the Stealership? I agree this is nothing that should be replaced with non oem parts!!!!

If my, somewhat limited, knowledge of Toyota vehicles has shown me anything, it's that parts like the fuseable link are a single part number that serves a wide range of vehicles. My other Toyota is a '72 KE20 Corolla vintage rally car, and there are several parts that are direct transfers to later models... sort of an evolution of the breed. I'm pretty sure the fuseable links aren't going away any time soon.

 

[SmokingRocks]

just stick this capacitor in place of the fusable link. It'll work just fine.

 

[Hornd]

Don't over think this.
Just use a piece of 12ga House Wire, no sheath required


Here's your new Profile Pic:

 

[PolarRunner]

Probably gets better MPG now that's shed many pounds of useless weight.

Though I fear the cupholders probably didn't survive.

 

[jdayment]

Anytime I go to the local dealer I have the part number in hand and I tell them I want that I don't even play around with having them try and find the correct part by name it took 20 minutes for them to try and figure out the correct part number for a key which I still ended up having to tell them.

fusible link part number

90982-08264

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

So this question is relevant to my interests as I have had to replace the AM2 FL with a fuse as a field repair and it cut my trip short on account of a question of the durability of the bodge (am2 blew on account of an injector lede short, then the spare I was carrying also blew). Aren't fuses just meant to be current limiters? Why would a fuse be inferior to a fusible link? I've been asking this question of replacing the AM bundle with a standard fuse block for a while now. but never went for the plunge. I know they ditched them for the 100 series (as wires, now a block) and I thought about doing that...but that just means more expensive spares (though less prone to physical damage). What is it about FL that make them a better choice than a fuse (serious question)

 

[NLXTACY]

Slow burn vs quick burn. Thermal properties of the fuseable link allow it to last longer through high current spikes than a typical ATC/ATO type fuse ever would. Every time you start the truck you'd risk blowing the fuse.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Slow burn vs quick burn. Thermal properties of the fuseable link allow it to last longer through high current spikes than a typical ATC/ATO type fuse ever would. Every time you start the truck you'd risk blowing the fuse.

hmm, I had a 5 amp in my AM2 as my bodge and it served me fine. (smallest I had on hand). Granted AM2 doesn't run the starter, but it seems like you could get away with a fuse for systems that don't have crazy high draw from time to time.

 

[rc51kid]

Slow burn vs quick burn. Thermal properties of the fuseable link allow it to last longer through high current spikes than a typical ATC/ATO type fuse ever would. Every time you start the truck you'd risk blowing the fuse.

Interesting. So your saying it will allow a lot of current for a short little burst but not extended time like a short or something?

 

[george_tlc]

There are different types of fuses - there's actually some science involved versus just a 'nail'

A fusible link is designed to take a high current 'spike' or short term draw without blowing, since it won't overheat enough to open which means that the wire harness etc would not have got hot enough to melt/fail. So, if that short term high current demand was a fault, then the fuse protecting that device would blow to prevent a melt down in the failed device without compromising the wiring and fusible link.

The fusible link + fuse is a hierarchy of protection.

Fusible links can be replaced with specialised fuses, designed to open 'slowly' versus a fast-blow fuse. But that requires having a good knowledge of the circuit/circuits being protected by that fusible link.

The fusible link (in theory) should only open when a catastrophic failure (short) occurs in the wiring harness. Any 'device' failure would be handled by the associated fuse.

(There is no fusible link on the starter motor).

cheers,
george.

 

[Marine7]

just stick this capacitor in place of the fusable link. It'll work just fine.

I'm on it!

 

[Marine7]

Don't over think this.
Just use a piece of 12ga House Wire, no sheath required


Here's your new Profile Pic:
View attachment 1436098

They don't have to worry about getting all the old paint off to re-coat it!