What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (27 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Looks nice 
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
cs130 alt installed - works perfectly. Thanks for all the advice on the install guys.
Drove it
would say what I did this week, but really it has been "this year" Have info on another thread "start of 2 fj40 builds". So what I have done this week is driven it! It's like being a kid again, finding reasons to need to run an errand, etc!
would say what I did this week, but really it has been "this year" Have info on another thread "start of 2 fj40 builds". So what I have done this week is driven it! It's like being a kid again, finding reasons to need to run an errand, etc!
gwalt584
SILVER Star
steering wheel cover
Well, I covered the old beat up and warn steering wheel with a real leather wrap that stitched in place. SOR has them for various size steering wheels.
I edited this post to provide the source of the cover, since I had several PM's about the source. The 17" fit my wheel.
Thanks
Gary
Well, I covered the old beat up and warn steering wheel with a real leather wrap that stitched in place. SOR has them for various size steering wheels.
I edited this post to provide the source of the cover, since I had several PM's about the source. The 17" fit my wheel.
Thanks
Gary
Last edited:
Take out few parts for cleaning,painting of my 1970, made a few pork chops at the grill......
Finally found a guy selling one, so picked up and installed a new voltage regulator, now I don't have to keep charging the cruiser to drive it around!
Put new lenses on the turn signals.
Finally reassembled and installed my 8274 winch!
Tested and working great.
Put new lenses on the turn signals.
Finally reassembled and installed my 8274 winch!
Tested and working great.
Put in a new Redline full family cage and build a front bumper!
Looks good Hugh. I'm still about three weeks out. Spent these two days rasling with brake lines and found that the new brake booster pedal push rod is too long.
Devilmans Hand
TLCA #19517
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Engine died, ignition related with no spark. Ran two miles to a friend's house in flip flops. towed it to his house with a Rav-4. Drank a beer, ate some bbq, then lit some fireworks and tried reading my FSM before saying fck it for the night.
LAST WEEK--- top plate for carb, banjo bolt , new gasket on the carb.......got her back on the road after a 10 weeks ( 9 weeks at paint and body shop) and 1 week to get leaking banjo bolt/stripped threads in top plate of carb repaired...........back on the ROAD----Drove it a bunch......
Painted her after 1-year of tinkering
I got excited this week when I got to shoot paint. After a year of touching every bolt, seal and bearing, it was nice to be able to start re-assembly. I was able to immediately put the body on the day I brought it home from the paint booth.
Now I just hope money can keep up with my excitement and I can get it driveable in short-order.
I got excited this week when I got to shoot paint. After a year of touching every bolt, seal and bearing, it was nice to be able to start re-assembly. I was able to immediately put the body on the day I brought it home from the paint booth.
Now I just hope money can keep up with my excitement and I can get it driveable in short-order.
As my FJ40 had been laid up for close on 20 years and only recently having been re-commissioned [In Australia.....now in RSA] I have been undertaking some routine maintenance tasks, naturally one of which was the cooling system being my main priority.
I performed a full cooling system flush and also decided to fit a VDO auxiliary temperature gauge for peace of mind as I just do not trust the OEM one......
The OEM sender needs to be swapped out for one that's compatible with the new gauge if you're only going to be relying on the new gauge in isolation as the OEM one is not compatible.
On completion of having fitted the new gauge I immediately discovered she was running very hot. I was now left wondering where the problem lay......so, I decided to take the radiator in to a radiator shop to do a flow test, it was about 53% blocked [85 out of the 160 tubes], I could hardly believe what I was seeing
There was my problem right there. Replaced the radiator with a new one as the cost of the re-core was the same price, re-flushed the engine again before offering up the new additions, fitted a new OEM 82ºC thermo with the rubber sealing ring, new OEM hoses, fresh coolant, new OEM cap and I'm now sitting at an ideal 82ºC [180ºF] no matter how hard I drive her....problem solved 
So, despite having flushed the radiator, and water seemingly flowing through it beautifully with the hosepipe in the top inlet flushing clean water through, it was actually over 50% blocked and the cause of my problem.
Possibly not something a daily driver is going to suffer from with regular maintenance and the use of proper coolant, but something to be aware of for vehicles laid up for protracted periods and being re-commissioned.
On removal of the top tank....not pretty.
Close-up of the blocked tubes......recipe for disaster and impending doom.
Flow test showing the result of the blockage......more than a 50% restriction
I performed a full cooling system flush and also decided to fit a VDO auxiliary temperature gauge for peace of mind as I just do not trust the OEM one......
The OEM sender needs to be swapped out for one that's compatible with the new gauge if you're only going to be relying on the new gauge in isolation as the OEM one is not compatible.On completion of having fitted the new gauge I immediately discovered she was running very hot. I was now left wondering where the problem lay......so, I decided to take the radiator in to a radiator shop to do a flow test, it was about 53% blocked [85 out of the 160 tubes], I could hardly believe what I was seeing
There was my problem right there. Replaced the radiator with a new one as the cost of the re-core was the same price, re-flushed the engine again before offering up the new additions, fitted a new OEM 82ºC thermo with the rubber sealing ring, new OEM hoses, fresh coolant, new OEM cap and I'm now sitting at an ideal 82ºC [180ºF] no matter how hard I drive her....problem solved So, despite having flushed the radiator, and water seemingly flowing through it beautifully with the hosepipe in the top inlet flushing clean water through, it was actually over 50% blocked and the cause of my problem.
Possibly not something a daily driver is going to suffer from with regular maintenance and the use of proper coolant, but something to be aware of for vehicles laid up for protracted periods and being re-commissioned.
On removal of the top tank....not pretty.
Close-up of the blocked tubes......recipe for disaster and impending doom.
Flow test showing the result of the blockage......more than a 50% restriction
Thanks for posting this Peter.
(A fine example of the damage people do by neglecting their cooling systems.)
(A fine example of the damage people do by neglecting their cooling systems.)
Soft doors are done, soft top is back on and tomorrow I get the lexan back for the windows. Took it for a spin around the block and it didn't catch on fire
Gotta take the shop-vac to it tomorrow and clean out all the loose nuts, bolts, metal shavings, etc, etc, etc
Gotta take the shop-vac to it tomorrow and clean out all the loose nuts, bolts, metal shavings, etc, etc, etc
They are just standard Eagle offroad lights with the old con-ferr mounts.
The Unity spotlights will work with the 40, you just have to use the Heep mounting kit. It's actually pretty easy aside from the fact that you have to drill a huge holew thru your windshield frame
Gorgeous man. Love the soft top and soft doors.
-Ed
-Ed
Soft doors are done, soft top is back on and tomorrow I get the lexan back for the windows. Took it for a spin around the block and it didn't catch on fire
View attachment 433219
Gotta take the shop-vac to it tomorrow and clean out all the loose nuts, bolts, metal shavings, etc, etc, etc
Soft doors are done, soft top is back on and tomorrow I get the lexan back for the windows. Took it for a spin around the block and it didn't catch on fire
View attachment 433219
Gotta take the shop-vac to it tomorrow and clean out all the loose nuts, bolts, metal shavings, etc, etc, etc
<3 this truck - you did an outstanding job who made that top again?
Thanks guys, it's been a work in progress for a while, the whife was getting on my ass about when it was going to see the light of day again
It's one of Ehsan's tops via Pakistan from southbostonfj (Alex). The vinyl is definitely the way to go, if you want canvas, they leave a little bit to be desired. For Canvas, OCDbeetle's canvas top is good, just gotta get the bows.
It's one of Ehsan's tops via Pakistan from southbostonfj (Alex). The vinyl is definitely the way to go, if you want canvas, they leave a little bit to be desired. For Canvas, OCDbeetle's canvas top is good, just gotta get the bows.
Split my FJ60 spring packs, re drilled the military leaf for the spring flip, split another pack to pull out that mil. wrap to cut it and make an add a leaf, cleaned and painted and re assembled.
