What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (36 Viewers)

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After nearly 4 years got mine out on the road. Feels like a million bucks.
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Now it’s just to finish off a few small things then off to my new body shop to have the fenders painted.
 
Getting ready to have the seat frames powder coated. Went down to the shop and looked at their samples from Prismatic, specifically the Galaxy Grey that others have mentioned.

Was unimpressed. Too dark, tending toward a light charcoal color. So spent some time looking through all the samples, and came up with a different solution. Still Prismatic, but in a different family. Called Vegas Gold, described as a "heavy silver with gold metallic flake."

The sample swatch I brought home is a really close match to the new front bumper. It does seem to have a bit more of a gold cast than the bumper in some lighting, but overall I like it. I think I'm going to give it a try.

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Finally some 33's bruh!!!

 
Getting ready to have the seat frames powder coated. Went down to the shop and looked at their samples from Prismatic, specifically the Galaxy Grey that others have mentioned.

Was unimpressed. Too dark, tending toward a light charcoal color. So spent some time looking through all the samples, and came up with a different solution. Still Prismatic, but in a different family. Called Vegas Gold, described as a "heavy silver with gold metallic flake."

The sample swatch I brought home is a really close match to the new front bumper. It does seem to have a bit more of a gold cast than the bumper in some lighting, but overall I like it. I think I'm going to give it a try.

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We have collected alot of new OEM pewter parts for our build. None of them match.....
 
We have collected alot of new OEM pewter parts for our build. None of them match.....
Luckily, mine is a '64, so the only pewter on the exterior is the front bumper. All the rest—turn signals, bumperettes, mirror arms, etc.—are body colored.

Most of my pewter is inside. Seat frames, ashtray, glovebox, cluster, grab bar and t-case dash lever. Not sure how I'll powder the t-case lever, I don't see any way to remove the black plastic knob.

As an aside, the new pewter stuff I've got so far are all pretty darn close match. That would be the front bumper, turn signals and license lamp.
 
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Just so. To the average citizen / non-enthusiast, any short wheel-base, two-door truck is a "jeep", just like every refrigerator is a "Fridge" and every tissue is a "Kleenex", regardless of actual brand.

I once drove my 40 to a large Toyota dealership; several salesmen came out and walked all around it (including the Land Cruiser script on both sides). One of them exclaims: "I didn't know Toyota made a jeep!". I replied, "Yeah, they call it a Land Cruiser". Still no apparent comprehension from the sales staff. :meh:

Now that right there is funny!!
 
How about after measurements with OME/Bilstein?

Morning Jeff - Here are the measurements I took before and after, both were taken with the shocks disconnected. As I took the measurements I either lifted the axle as far as it would go for the collapsed measurement or the frame as high as I could with the axle free floating for the extended measurement. These measurements do not account for under load travel to the bump stop (i.e. full weight driving compression) or under load travel extended (i.e. jumping old Goose!!)

Front Shock Bolt Collapsed Before 16 Front Shock Bolt Collapsed After 16
Front Shock Bolt Extended Before 18 Front Shock Bolt Extended After 19

Rear Shock Bolt Collapsed Before 16 Rear Shock Bolt Collapsed After 19
Rear Shock Bolt Extended Before 18 Rear Shock Bolt Extended After 21

Lake
 
....

Most of my pewter is inside. Seat frames, ashtray, glovebox, cluster, grab bar and t-case dash lever. Not sure how I'll powder the t-case lever, I don't see any way to remove the black plastic knob.
....
The knob just threads onto the lever. It should just unscrew though it might be tight from being on there for over 50 years..
 
The knob just threads onto the lever. It should just unscrew though it might be tight from being on there for over 50 years..
This one threads on? Really. Looks more like it was molded in place. I'll need to look closer.

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Hardtop large windows and new seals installed after 3 years, smudge marks left for proof.

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Call me clumsy.

I have had problems with the Weber since March, nothing I did seemed to help. Even rebuilding it didn't help much, for long. So I decided to install a Holley 350. Finished yesterday. Still runs rough and there is a pinging sound in one of the cylinders. Doesn't sound good, in fact it sounds terrible so I shut it off after only about 30 seconds of running. I was also missing a washer so I put 2 and 2 together and came up with an OH S$%T!

Pulled the head off today and found this, the offending washer in cylinder #2.
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Inspected the cylinder and saw no scratch marks in the walls and only a few marks on top of the piston.

Inspected the head and found the same dents in the valves and the seats look undamaged. I might have dodged a very large and expensive bullet.

Valve stems are straight and even the offending washer looked good on its edges. Maybe I need to go buy a lottery ticket or two tonight. This might be my lucky day.

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However, when the engine was cranked it still sounded like it had a vacuum leak somewhere. The intake looks solid but the gas looks like it has something mixed in with it. Either I have had sugar put in the tank, diesel could have been mixed in or there is a lot of water in the tank. I'll drain it tomorrow.
 
Progress today. Spent most of the day continuing to strip the tub, with an occasional side distraction.

Distraction #1 - disassemble inside mirror so that I can paint it and replace the glass.

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Pleasant surprise, not as bad as I feared under the tank. Or at least, so far. We'll see what's left after blasting.

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Beyond that, got pretty much everything stripped off, bagged and labeled. Biggest find today is that the tub is warped. Passenger A pillar is not vertical, off by 2° compared to the driver side. Over 5/8" (15mm) difference from windshield base to B-pillar from side to side. This is why I couldn't get either the passenger fender nor the right door to fit well. Pleased I found this now, it shouldn't be hard to correct, and will make fitting the parts back on much easier.

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