I always bought Alt and starters an such from AZ or Advance because they are free replacement. I used to see how many stores or their locations each had in the areas I wheel.
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What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
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I always bought Alt and starters an such from AZ or Advance because they are free replacement. I used to see how many stores or their locations each had in the areas I wheel.
@1911 I bought a dozen of these at an antique bike swap meet in Davenport, IA around 1992?? And paid $5.00 each. I was browsing on the internet and saw several different prices from $150.00 to $250 EACH ! WTF? I used 4 on my 4 cylinder Henderson and 2 on the WLA army bike and have the rest taking up space in my FJ40 decal drawer 
Selling these plugs next… I have a few more decals to put in the drawer
Selling these plugs next… I have a few more decals to put in the drawer
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Shows everything but the one relevant number. Charging current!
@1911 I bought a dozen of these at an antique bike swap meet in Davenport, IA around 1992?? And paid $5.00 each. I was browsing on the internet and saw several different prices from $150.00 to $250 EACH ! WTF? I used 4 on my 4 cylinder Henderson and 2 on the WLA army bike and have the rest taking up space in my FJ40 decal drawer
Selling these plugs next… I have a few more decals to put in the drawer
Mine were all holdovers from when I worked as a mechanic in a bike shop from 1973-'75 or so. We had purchased the stock of a guy with an old shop that wanted to retire, and he had tons of NOS parts, including a bunch of 45 motor parts from the war, still in cosmoline.
I had a few NOS cosmoline wrapped parts for my WLA. The brake and clutch cable are sheathed in some woven fabric over the steel sheath and coiled about 5” inches diameter. They are about 4’ long and when I removed the cosmoline wrap, they unfurled into a perfectly straight line cable. No bends, no kinks, no twists. Wow, some great memories there
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
Good point. The JBT-1 does not measure alternator charging current (e.g., max amps output), I need to use a separate amperage clamp/load tester or more advanced bench tester capable of applying and measuring load current. I’ll do that next.
nabbasi
SILVER Star
Got the soft top test fit. Some tweaking yet, but it should get me through the winter.
But do you have a working heater?
nabbasi
SILVER Star
Blower works and switch works (re-soldered by someone much better at soldering than me). The heater gets warm, but is definitely not hot. At first I thought it was the foam (the door is certainly missing some foam), but it seems that a pull to close valve was installed by a previous owner instead of a pull to open. So I'll get a chance to test it in a few days!
It hadn’t been started for about 6 weeks so I hooked up the battery and drove it a few miles while the weather was nice. Back to hibernation for another few months.
Finished the front bumper.
I removed the gas tank last week and had some bubbling underneath the paint from when I drained the tank about a month ago. Was curious on what’s a good cleaner to clean up the gas so I can primer and spray paint the area. Thanks
Got the clutch and roll bar. Painted two hoods (quickly and badly with zero prep) so we can pick a color. Best of all, found out that I'm going to be a dad! So, nixing the plan to install jumpseats and going with a forward facing seat is high on my list of priorities. I really think that growing up sitting in the jumpseat and bashing the back of my head into the rollbar when off road in my dad's 40 is why I am the way that I am. 
CRC Brake Cleaner (chlorinated version)
It's in a red can because that's what color your skin turns when you get it on you.
Good call on the mono-strut.I watched the installation vid. Even looked easy enough for me to install.
Here's how I used struts for my hood and hatch:
There are lots of threads that mention hatch struts. Thanks to what others have posted I've came up with the following.
Parts needed:
Rivnut tool:
50lb gas strut x2:
The Result:
Parts needed:
Rivnut tool:
50lb gas strut x2:
The Result:
I'm curious when they started doing their hood struts this way... before or after 2018?
1980 FJ43 - Cadet Blue - FJ43-67982
View details of this 1980 Cadet Blue FJ43. . Want an FJ Land Cruiser? Call The FJ Company today!
My hatch opens the same way as one on a $275k USD rig. Must have done something right.
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
I used my original struts and just replaced the innards: '72 FJ40 Liftgate Struts - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/72-fj40-liftgate-struts.269896/post-15105345Here's how I used struts for my hood and hatch:
There are lots of threads that mention hatch struts. Thanks to what others have posted I've came up with the following.
Parts needed:
Rivnut tool:
50lb gas strut x2:
The Result:
I'm curious when they started doing their hood struts this way... before or after 2018?
1980 FJ43 - Cadet Blue - FJ43-67982
View details of this 1980 Cadet Blue FJ43. . Want an FJ Land Cruiser? Call The FJ Company today!www.fj.co
My hatch opens the same way as one on a $275k USD rig. Must have done something right.
Eventually I'll have them powder coated.
I just completed this upgrade using your instructions. No more awkwardly funny incidents of people getting the back of their heads cracked…
I've got to find a shop around that still tests alternators. I picked up a used alternator, was told it works, but don't know if I should use it or keep running my 120 amp alternator that likes to eat bearings every now and then. I bought it as it in '96 as a core out of an '89 Caprice Classic Cab (ex-cop car). It has been a great alternator, but one of these days it's going to need more than just new bearings and it also has a crack in the rear housing (because someone dropped it). Almost 30 years and 6 bearings later it still is a kick ass alternator.