What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (48 Viewers)

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Hello, I am looking into refreshing the brakes on my 1977 FJ40 with front discs and rear drums. I am wondering if I can use the master cylinder in the first picture as a direct bolt on replacement or if I need a proportioning valve. If I’m unable to use it I plan on ordering everything from city racer. Thanks!
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DylanH239 said:
Hello, I am looking into refreshing the brakes on my 1977 FJ40 with front discs and rear drums. I am wondering if I can use the master cylinder in the first picture as a direct bolt on replacement or if I need a proportioning valve. If I’m unable to use it I plan on ordering everything from city racer. Thanks!View attachment 3872722View attachment 3872719
Click to expand...
Don’t think so. Mine looks like the CityRacer setup and works great.
 
DylanH239 said:
Hello, I am looking into refreshing the brakes on my 1977 FJ40 with front discs and rear drums. I am wondering if I can use the master cylinder in the first picture as a direct bolt on replacement or if I need a proportioning valve. If I’m unable to use it I plan on ordering everything from city racer. Thanks!View attachment 3872722View attachment 3872719
Click to expand...
You can use an 80 series master cylinder (non-abs though) not sure what you posted without part number & and need a portion valve. Often people get the wildwood one. Racer sells it all as do others (outfit/valley). Some places like Red Line sell nifty brackets for the portion valve for a clean look.

Is your current MC not working? Do your dash brake lights (parking etc) not come on the dash( do you need two new switches)? Check booster diaphragm and if weak, maybe get the new booster IMO if it all else checks out.

What to think about - and I haven’t- with the newer MC, how would your warning lights work? As I understand it, those are pressure sensors as some electrical work might be required if important to have/you.
 
OlYellr said:
You can use an 80 series master cylinder (non-abs though) not sure what you posted without part number & and need a portion valve. Often people get the wildwood one. Racer sells it all as do others (outfit/valley). Some places like Red Line sell nifty brackets for the portion valve for a clean look.

Is your current MC not working? Do your dash brake lights (parking etc) not come on the dash( do you need two new switches)? Check booster diaphragm and if weak, maybe get the new booster IMO if it all else checks out.

What to think about - and I haven’t- with the newer MC, how would your warning lights work? As I understand it, those are pressure sensors as some electrical work might be required if important to have/you.
Click to expand...
My brake master cylinder is starting to leak into the booster and It’s original to my knowledge so I think it’s due for replacement. My brake lights on the dash currently don’t work so I think I need new switches. I’m leaning towards just ordering everything new from city racer and going from there.
 
DylanH239 said:
My brake master cylinder is starting to leak into the booster and It’s original to my knowledge so I think it’s due for replacement. My brake lights on the dash currently don’t work so I think I need new switches. I’m leaning towards just ordering everything new from city racer and going from there.
Click to expand...
Think your 77 had factory discfront/drumrear? Then the MC from cityracer should work sans Proportioning valve. Leaking into booster may have ruined both or booster may still work. Have you checked it with vacuum? Watch for the pushrod length when you swap the new booster in. Mine was perfect out of the box.
I did a swap (83 fj60 brakes onto 74 fj40) and used the 93 MC/Booster/Pvalve from Cityracer. It works GREAT. Had to bend and flare a little brake line to get my Pvalve on there - think I rented or bought a cheap bender and flaring tool at OReilly's.

I bench-bled the MC and used the gravity method to bleed the lines until all clear. I did my best to NOT introduce air into the system (IE plugging the hard lines, loosen/change one component at a time, not let everything drain out...)
 
Haven’t posted up in a while… a couple months ago I replaced the rear OME springs to match the 4” Skyjackers up front. I decided to remove a leaf since I’m topless and the end result seems nice. IMHO Skyjackers get a bad rap, this setup is much smoother than the OME’s I replaced, the springs are a little longer so I ended up with better wheel positioning in the wheel wells and better shackle angles. It will only get better with miles and some flexing.

Also replaced a leaky side cover gasket. I found the hardware lose so I need to remember to re-torque in a couple of weeks. My big cap dizzy had been in for nearly 10 years so I ordered a new cap, rotor, o-ring and dust seal but those haven’t shown up yet so I’ll need to pull the dizzy again. Timing is set to 9* BTDC, she’s running good for a blow-by dinosaur.

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@MatthewMcD i remember when you got your knuckle rebuild badge…they grow up so quickly 👍

😉
 
MatthewMcD said:
I am getting closer to my Engine Swap Badge! :)
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Surely that’s in the bag?
I’m surprised that you don’t have a full back tattoo of a 2F by this point.
 
RevISK said:
Surely that’s in the bag?
I’m surprised that you don’t have a full back tattoo of a 2F by this point.
Click to expand...

@Voodoocruisers is it you that has the 2F valve clearances tattooed on your arm for quick reference? Somebody does and it’s brilliant.
 
igotta40 said:
After 40+ years of throwing an old bath towel across my windshield, so I could fully open the hood without scratching it up, I finally made an actual cushion. Not my idea- I was inspired by another forum member on here somewhere. I had some leftover carpet padding , and sewed in a couple of rare earth magnets to grip the windshield frame. It works!

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@igotta40 By the way…. I forgot to mention….THAT is a beautiful sewing machine. I have rebuilt several of my wife’s Singer 221 featherweights and custom painted one of them. Of all the modern machines she has…the 221 is her favorite
 
dazerb said:
Think your 77 had factory discfront/drumrear? Then the MC from cityracer should work sans Proportioning valve. Leaking into booster may have ruined both or booster may still work. Have you checked it with vacuum? Watch for the pushrod length when you swap the new booster in. Mine was perfect out of the box.
I did a swap (83 fj60 brakes onto 74 fj40) and used the 93 MC/Booster/Pvalve from Cityracer. It works GREAT. Had to bend and flare a little brake line to get my Pvalve on there - think I rented or bought a cheap bender and flaring tool at OReilly's.

I bench-bled the MC and used the gravity method to bleed the lines until all clear. I did my best to NOT introduce air into the system (IE plugging the hard lines, loosen/change one component at a time, not let everything drain out...)
Click to expand...
I bought a used FJZ master and booster setup for my 79 FJ40 brake upgrade. I retro fit toyota disc and calibers all the way around. I did need a proportioning valve for it, as the back wheels would lockup and start to swing the rear of the truck around.
 
MAR FJ40 said:
Farmed out the body work. Letting the pros do their thing with their cool toys. :)
Click to expand...

Excellent call. I’ve been known to do a bit of “Farming” myself. 😎
 
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