Found oil! Had the kid turn the oil pump while I slowly turned the engine over in order to find the sweet spot which opens up the oil passage to the valve train. Since it’s a fresh rebuild, I didn’t dare try and start it without seeing some oil flow
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Looks great!!This was my third attemp, the first two were utter failures. After bending the brake lines it seemed like this, only a handful of 90° bends, would be so easy
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Looks great. Have you tried to install the air intake housing?This was my third attemp, the first two were utter failures. After bending the brake lines it seemed like this, only a handful of 90° bends, would be so easy
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@steffan You did a great job installing this hardline for fuel. They are so much heavier then brake 3/16. Complex curves are difficult to configure. I tried it stainless. I tried it in steel and finally had to switch to copper nickel and….. even then it kicked my ass. I’m still not happy but the truck is running well. I have about 9 feet left to give it 2 more tries.
You did really well…I am looking for that holding bracket that you have at 90 degrees in front by the t-stat as well.
You did really well…I am looking for that holding bracket that you have at 90 degrees in front by the t-stat as well.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Took a break from the Land Cruiser and flew to Michigan to assist our son reinstalling the freshly rebuilt engine into his 1972 VW bus. Since he lives across the country from us, it is always a great to spend time with him, but even more satisfying to work together on a project together and see it come to fruition. It is funny though the difference between German engineering and Japanese. I kept reaching for the wrong tool. There are not any 12 or 14 mm wrenches or sockets on VW’s!
Don't they make a flexible stainless steel line? That would make it 100% easier?
Took it to the dunes and added a new hole to the rear diff cover. Even with the hole it made it back to the trailer.
That sucks
I look at is a fun project to figure out how to upgrade it. Lol
Short trip after week of repair
@Ozpall yes but then it isn't a hard line like the factory… And I am not really liking this as shown.…perpendicular lines work better for my stubborn brain…dumb? Maybe …but surely satisfying once it’s done. I know it won’t run any differently …only thing I can say is when some else owns this truck, they’ll be happy some lunatic jumped through all the hoops….
I admire your bending skills. I worry about vapor lock from the metal lines. I solved all my issues with an electric fuel pump and a rubber hose back in the 90's.
@charliemeyer007 Wait a minute….. fill me in on vapor lock and hard lines…? Are you saying the electric fuel pump eliminates this issue…all unfamiliar territory for me
Metal line conduct heat both by conduction and IR, rubber lines are insulators. My electric fuel pump in under the battery. The hose runs up over the engine to the carb - shorter path so fuel has less time in the line to absorb heat, besides being in an insulated hose.
Back in the 70's I dated a lady with 66 something V8. Someone had used like 3/8 copper line for the fuel. It would vapor lock at the drop of a hat on a hot day. I split some old fuel/vacuum hose lengthwise and covered the copper line. It never VL after that.
Back in the 70's I dated a lady with 66 something V8. Someone had used like 3/8 copper line for the fuel. It would vapor lock at the drop of a hat on a hot day. I split some old fuel/vacuum hose lengthwise and covered the copper line. It never VL after that.
The latent heat of vaporization of gasoline is lower than engine temp of 200 degrees.
So at engine temp gasoline will be a vapor at sea level (atmospheric pressure)
Not hard to imagine because water does the same thing, as it heats up it reaches a point where it turns into vapor or steam.
A mechanical fuel pump spinning in vapor won't move any vapor or gasoline, and your engine won't start because the fuel in your fuel system has turned to vapor and now you're locked. Often putting a cool rag on the hot line will cool it enough to turn the vapor back to liquid.
There is another factor.
If you close the system and pressurize it, the heat required for vaporization goes up.
That's one reason fuel injection works so well, constant supply of fresh cool fuel at high pressure. ~60psi is typical.
That pushes the heat of vaporization above typical engine temp.
If all you have is 4.5psi from a standard mechanical fuel pump, you have much less ability to resist vaporization of the fuel and may be subject to vapor lock.
Your carburetor needs wet liquid fuel in it in order to work, vapor won't get you anywhere.
If you have a carburetor, exceeding 4.5 psi of fuel pressure may well sink your float and flood your carb.
The solution for this is, whatever works
Now you know.
Good luck.
Thank-you @charliemeyer007 …I’m getting closer and then further away from finished…gettin’ beat up by those fuel lines
You as well @trainbufftony …that is a relief for me…fuel pump is in The tank.
You as well @trainbufftony …that is a relief for me…fuel pump is in The tank.
It looked awful but a big wad of aluminum foil wrapped around the steel line would work too. Saw that many times back in the day.
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
SOLD - New England: FJ40 1975-79 Fuel Hardline Clamp Upper No. 1 & Lower Restored No.2
FJ40 upper fuel hardline bracket/clamp 23841-61010 and lower 23842-61010 restored with new yellow zinc plating. $50.00 including shipping CONUS.
forum.ih8mud.com
There are two brackets for the factory fuel lines. I’ve yet to see the lower bracket in the “wild” but it shows in my classified ad.
Cupro nickel is the easiest to bend vs. stainless steel and steel. To get the bends, use cupro nickel brake line as shown then transfer to fuel lines. Even then it’s still not easy.