What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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Head is off. No noticeable head cracks or gasket deformation. The circled area appears to be where water had entered #4 cylinder between the gasket and head. It was the only delaminated spot, the rest of the gasket was sealed tightly to the head. Next step is to get the head tested and if it's good, reinstall.

Been a long time since I did this, Clinton was president last time I replaced a 2F head gasket. Used a OEM head gasket sprayed with Copper coat last time and that worked well. Any reason I should do anything different this time?

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Green Bean said:
A huge "thank you" to @ToyotaMatt. Replaced all 4 indicator sockets (turn indicators; 4WD; and Parking Brake) with the style with the plastic retainer ring that screws to the back of the bezel. The problem that I was having is occasionally the old sockets would come loose and fall out. Now everything seems to fight nice and tight.

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Prior to wrapping each of my now Kustom KOITo LED baby Koito's up with kid-gloves , i did my methodical and routine final full functions field bench test step by step

fsm and beyond procedures , i like knowing anything i touch is as it should be and all that JIS JAZZ ......


- it occured to me i have NEVER seen or heard of any form of playable digital media or even old KODAK CHROME Super 8 footage of ANY in-dash indicator lamps RED , Green , Blue , Yellow , or Amber ...?


- so .....

- i righted the wrongs of the last 6+ decades and got our little community back on even keel course correction as i always try hard to do ......

- now , future up and coming Land Cruiser Community Youngsters , or the new first time owner operator , whom just blew his retirement portfolio the day he / she retired at what ever age that is now ? Has a opportunity to see and lean what was and what is now and should indeed be just that !

- i know how correct mr. greenbean my SOLID MUD Buddy for well over a solid decade + is , so that matters to me , because it matters to him ...

- so....... that's how it works ..😆
anyway ,
- we now have archived digital media , that has PERIOD CORRECT Sound File , lent to me by a long missed life-time member of our Vintage Toyota Land Cruiser Community ....:cool:

- make sure to CLICK - ON the speaker icon please , and share this moment in Land Cruiser History ..


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I replaced my washer pump harness plug, buttoned up the wiring and got the system working again with a new hood nozzle. Then finished bolting up the front apron to the fenders and doing my best to align all the panels. These old girls don't have the best fit-up and gaps. Next up, install driver-side running board and rear view mirror.
 
Needed to replace some brake cylinders so I did a "since I'm in there", pulled rear axle and springs. Clean and paint. Day job going on two weeks but it will be nice!
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cruiserkev said:
Head is off. No noticeable head cracks or gasket deformation. The circled area appears to be where water had entered #4 cylinder between the gasket and head. It was the only delaminated spot, the rest of the gasket was sealed tightly to the head. Next step is to get the head tested and if it's good, reinstall.

Been a long time since I did this, Clinton was president last time I replaced a 2F head gasket. Used a OEM head gasket sprayed with Copper coat last time and that worked well. Any reason I should do anything different this time?

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While you have it off, it might be worth piece of mind taking it to a machine shop to see if it might be slightly warped and need surfacing. I would probably clean up those valves as well.
 
A few pages back I started a how-to get the driver seat adjuster working. This is the next installment- reassembly. Now that the frame pieces are cleaned & painted, the tracks are polished, I verified that all the pieces fit properly. The roller trolleys are thin stamped stainless steel, and got a little bent out of shape. Those had to be tweaked to fit back together. Surprisingly, there is very little wiggle room with these parts. I greased the tracks, rollers & trolleys, then basically put it together the reverse of taking apart. First the rear trolley goes onto the lower track, then the upper track mates up and slides back. It’s a little tricky getting the trolley engaged in the tracks, leave enough showing to drop the roller in, then slide it fully rearward. That gives enough clearance to engage the front trolley. Then drop in the other roller. After that, I used a rubber mallet to tap the tracks into position. Now it’s slicker than snot on a glass doorknob.

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There’s a few bolts and one hex nut that have to go in the correct spot. One bolt is shorter than all the others. That one goes at the rear of the lower track. If you strip yours down, pay attention to where all the bolts go.

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Ordered a bunch of seals and gaskets to take care of my leaks including a valve cover gasket, side cover gasket, oil pan gasket, rear main seals, pinion seals, etc. Also ordered a new clutch kit and a dual seal speedo housing.

After receiving most of my parts, I decided to do a compression test. I'm a little bummed about the results so I need to learn how to do a leak down test to find out more information. Results of the compression test are as follows:

1 - 120
2 - 125
3 - 110
4 - 95
5 - 95
6 - 105

I also ordered a new wiper switch but they still aren't working. I found that the wire to the fuse panel isn't there so I need to trace back and find the correct wire as there are a few dangling around under the dash.
 
Economist LC76 said:
Genuine key case upgrade.
The genuine key case was very small for my keys. Driving without a key case is also suboptimal due to the key noise. Custom case looks nice and keep the keys safe
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Haha "metrical scale measuring steel tape"?
Has it got a metronome built into it? 🤣

Personally I just take the key out once it's running and put it back in my pocket before it jumps out the window.
 
Brand new exhaust and tail pipe. The muffler I was told is a "turbo tube" not sure the brand but it sounds great. It's mostly quiet with a great exhaust note and it sounds the way it should stock so. Also checked the trans and transfer fluid and was about 2 3/4 quarts low in the transmission and a 1/4 in the tcase. I have already resealed them both and they still leak. Also changed the engine oil for some new 15w40 Rotella

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Economist LC76 said:
Genuine key case upgrade.
The genuine key case was very small for my keys. Driving without a key case is also suboptimal due to the key noise. Custom case looks nice and keep the keys safe
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Greetings Your Excellency ,

mr. Economist sir ...... :D


Snappy Key-Kase there for sure .....!

Truly marvelous indeed and a must have , for all the must haves here on MUD , now must have ....:)

don't let all these Yanks get you down ...

.

we are growing in numbers every day , that's all that matters ....🎇

OEM : TAJIMA ….simply bliss



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