Agree. I wasn’t that impressed with the Retrosound either. Sometimes mine won’t come on. May be a wiring issue though…
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Where did you source the tie downs bolted to the floor?
Took care of little things like dialing in a straight steering wheel after the PS rebuild, timing and carb adjustment and a quick bath to start the week right.
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Got this sweet 65 running and on the road again!
Dirt Dauber Matt
SILVER Star
Yes, I 100% agree about the Retrosound in-dash unit. It is very cheaply made. I bought one a couple years ago and was very disappointed with the initial quality and after about six months it just quit working. I definitely would NOT recommend it.
I am planning to buy one of these and figure out a way to mount it to the roll bar. That way I can remove it and not have to worry about someone stealing it. I will just use Bluetooth and Spotify.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Recently I was thinking about getting one of these as well and while on a little 40 cruise around my neighborhood found this in the street. A little banged up but sounds good and the price was right.
ToyosandHam
SILVER Star
I drove to Mississippi for a drum mount for a classic 8274 going on the front of my 40. Ended up with boxes of parts and two 8274-50s as well. The work table will be busy for the next month or two.
ToyosandHam
SILVER Star
@DirtDauberGarage @RevISK
Continuing the radio conversation, I have been looking as well but don't want to go with a roll cage bar. I was looking for some kind of thin sound bar that could sit on the dash pad basically facing you. Something like:
or even
Amazon product ASIN B09QRQCWCG
Have you guys seen anything similar out there or considered anything similar? Maybe I'll just kick a thread off...
Continuing the radio conversation, I have been looking as well but don't want to go with a roll cage bar. I was looking for some kind of thin sound bar that could sit on the dash pad basically facing you. Something like:
STANDARD 2-Channel Passive Soundbar for 48" - 65" SunBrite TVs - Weatherproof Televisions
www.weatherprooftelevisions.com
or even
Amazon product ASIN B09QRQCWCG
Have you guys seen anything similar out there or considered anything similar? Maybe I'll just kick a thread off...
I just use one of these $35 speakers mounted with a piece of velcro on the dash pad and Spotify. Gotta carry the phone anyway, put it to use! Works great, can be moved to different vehicles and it's easy to remove and stash away so thieves don't get it. No need for a head unit and mounted speakers. To fill the ugly radio hole, I made a switch plate for off road lighting.
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Ok I wanted to update this post with an important tech update. I had that paper towel to monitor for any leaks. Well there is a very slow one I cannot get rid of. I initially thought maybe I used the wrong type of adapter fitting. Thankfully that is not the case, BUT, after looking at the Wilwood website it seems they use a thread sealer on their fittings with this residual valve! I hadn't noticed before and there was nothing in their instructions. These fittings are special M10 adapters they dont sell, so they didn't come with sealer installed on the threads. I ordered some Loctite 545 and primer that should be here soon. Hopefully this will be the last of this brake project and I can move on.Installed a 10lb residual valve for the rear drum circuit. It seems the disc/drum 80 MC needs it when running it on an early 40 rear drum setup. Solved the double pump braking.
View attachment 3289131
So lesson here, if you use a Wilwood residual valve make sure you have sealer on your fittings.
Good advice and thanks for the cool stickers last week! Hope this solves the leakage.
RevISK
SILVER Star
That’s an interesting idea.@DirtDauberGarage @RevISK
Continuing the radio conversation, I have been looking as well but don't want to go with a roll cage bar. I was looking for some kind of thin sound bar that could sit on the dash pad basically facing you. Something like:
STANDARD 2-Channel Passive Soundbar for 48" - 65" SunBrite TVs - Weatherproof Televisions
www.weatherprooftelevisions.com
or even
Amazon product ASIN B09QRQCWCG
Have you guys seen anything similar out there or considered anything similar? Maybe I'll just kick a thread off...
I have the metal shelf (con ferr?) above my windshield and have driven around with the speaker up there. Works well and the shelf and top help amplify it with a bit of bass boost to boot.
I installed one of these on the front crossbar of the full cage:@DirtDauberGarage @RevISK
Continuing the radio conversation, I have been looking as well but don't want to go with a roll cage bar. I was looking for some kind of thin sound bar that could sit on the dash pad basically facing you. Something like:
STANDARD 2-Channel Passive Soundbar for 48" - 65" SunBrite TVs - Weatherproof Televisions
www.weatherprooftelevisions.com
or even
Amazon product ASIN B09QRQCWCG
Have you guys seen anything similar out there or considered anything similar? Maybe I'll just kick a thread off...
Very solidly built unit (as it should be for the price) with simple, rugged mounting to the rollbar.
I don't know if I believe it has 500W of power but will crank almost loud enough for the highway.
@DirtDauberGarage, I have one of those JBL Xtreme 2 speakers and they are exellent! Probably one of the best all around portables.
ToyosandHam
SILVER Star
I think I'll kick off a thread this afternoon and see if anyone has done it.
RevISK
SILVER Star
ToyosandHam
SILVER Star
Wait wait. It's a soundbar AND a lightbar? I love it.I installed one of these on the front crossbar of the full cage:
Very solidly built unit (as it should be for the price) with simple, rugged mounting to the rollbar.
I don't know if I believe it has 500W of power but will crank almost loud enough for the highway.
@DirtDauberGarage, I have one of those JBL Xtreme 2 speakers and they are exellent! Probably one of the best all around portables.
I don't think the one I have lights up. They may have added that feature in more recent models.
Starter was acting super weak on my '80 model 40, so after checking for loose connections and corrosion, I decided it was most likely bad brushes or something. Since I'm planning on doing a diesel swap in the near future, I opted for a cheap starter from Rock Auto. Put it on today, and that solved the problem. Turns over like a champ now. That top nut is a litle bit of a booger to get to.
ChaseBoost
GOLD Star
Finishing my front knuckle rebuild aka "FJ40 Initiation". Everything went well until I found the part below when I neared the end putting it back together. (This was in a container with the parts I took off, I kept them to compare for any signs abnormal wear and tear)...
...Then spent the rest of yesterday trying to track down what this is and what it went to. I am certain this is the garter spring off of the old (wasn't that old) oil seal.
Then put two and two together on why the inner axle seal and oil seal get a coat of grease -although the instructions do not specifically say why- so when the inner axle seal and oil seal are hammered in their respective garter springs do not pop out. I Never came across this as an issue while doing my research for the knuckle rebuild. I guess I was hyper focused on shims and preload (which is stressed in every YouTube video and FJ thread it seems).
I had diff fluid mixing with moly grease in my knuckles. Not soup but definitely evidence of oozing diff fluid on both sides (internal and external). The knuckle seals were certainly bad, but there may have been other causes to the failed knuckle seals, which I found out while trying to identify the part in the photo.
From my best estimate as an FJ40 pledge, the garter spring for the oil seal had popped out the last time the knuckle was serviced. The inner axle seal was fine and I did not know that till I removed it with a puller. Also found out that if the differential breathers are clogged, diff fluid can and will push past the seals.
So for other junior FJ40 members out there about to do a knuckle rebuild or if you just completed one I recommend you ensure the diff breathers are clear, and you apply a generous coat of grease to the inner axle seal and hub assembly seal to ensure the garter spring does not pop out during installation. I am going to let it ride and if I have a leak down the road I know for next time.
Get an FJ they said, it will be fun they said.
I'm having fun...this is fun... certainly take it over a heep any day...
...Then spent the rest of yesterday trying to track down what this is and what it went to. I am certain this is the garter spring off of the old (wasn't that old) oil seal.
Then put two and two together on why the inner axle seal and oil seal get a coat of grease -although the instructions do not specifically say why- so when the inner axle seal and oil seal are hammered in their respective garter springs do not pop out. I Never came across this as an issue while doing my research for the knuckle rebuild. I guess I was hyper focused on shims and preload (which is stressed in every YouTube video and FJ thread it seems).
I had diff fluid mixing with moly grease in my knuckles. Not soup but definitely evidence of oozing diff fluid on both sides (internal and external). The knuckle seals were certainly bad, but there may have been other causes to the failed knuckle seals, which I found out while trying to identify the part in the photo.
From my best estimate as an FJ40 pledge, the garter spring for the oil seal had popped out the last time the knuckle was serviced. The inner axle seal was fine and I did not know that till I removed it with a puller. Also found out that if the differential breathers are clogged, diff fluid can and will push past the seals.
So for other junior FJ40 members out there about to do a knuckle rebuild or if you just completed one I recommend you ensure the diff breathers are clear, and you apply a generous coat of grease to the inner axle seal and hub assembly seal to ensure the garter spring does not pop out during installation. I am going to let it ride and if I have a leak down the road I know for next time.
Get an FJ they said, it will be fun they said.
I'm having fun...this is fun... certainly take it over a heep any day...
Finished rebuilding Quadrajet carb, and finally took it out for a drive to work and through Waikiki.
Mine had the same intermittent power issue (sometimes would not come on, other times it would just turn off unexpectedly). I contacted Retro and they said I most likely had a grounding issue. I added a dedicated ground wire and it solved the problem.
Like others, I like the “retro” look of the radio, the Bluetooth capability, and the sound is decent (I did not add the optional amp) but that said it’s features are not very user friendly to access. I’ve learned to just leave it set on Bluetooth and the only thing I touch on the radio is the volume knob.