What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (48 Viewers)

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I have a Feb. '76 and I'm 99% sure my battery ground is stock. I don't have a ground wire going from the battery directly to the alternator that I can see. Should I ? 😳

Battery negative to the outside frame rail, and outside frame rail to the motor mount bolt:

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Do you have a cable from the starter to under the brake line union on the passenger frame rail?

I'd think that the engine mount to frame is good, but if the battery was routed straight to the motor mount, instead of the frame (or if it went to the alternator bracket), then it wouldn't be a straight shot from the engine - one link of chain instead of two, and not subject to the environment of the wheel well.
 
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Do you have a cable from the starter to under the brake line union on the passenger frame rail?

I'd think that the engine mount to frame is good, but if the battery was routed straight to the motor mount, instead of the frame (or if it went to the alternator bracket), then it wouldn't be a straight shot from the engine - one link of chain instead of two, and not subject to the environment of the wheel well.

No cable from starter to frame rail.
There is a small black wire with a white stripe going from the starter into the stock wiring harness. If I'm following it correctly it terminates on the back of the alternator.
 
Prepared the parts I need to hook up the rear heater. I used the EPDM foam insulation from Mcmaster carr that others have used. I'm also installing a pneumatic heater valve from a Lexus in place of the cable driven one.

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Do you have a cable from the starter to under the brake line union on the passenger frame rail?

I'd think that the engine mount to frame is good, but if the battery was routed straight to the motor mount, instead of the frame (or if it went to the alternator bracket), then it wouldn't be a straight shot from the engine - one link of chain instead of two, and not subject to the environment of the wheel well.

I have one of those as well. You don't want something that draws a lot of current (like a starter or a winch) to have to seek for a path for the current.
 
I have one of those as well. You don't want something that draws a lot of current (like a starter or a winch) to have to seek for a path for the current.
It is part #39 and it looks like engine to frame cable on @Brian/99uzj100
Also, the high voltage of the ignition?
 
Also, the high voltage of the ignition?

Not sure what you are saying here. The starter motor draws a lot of amps to run (and especially to start turning). The ignition is not high voltage until it goes through the coil; that is the purpose of the coil - to keep the ignition only 12 volts until right before the spark plugs. Of course, voltage and amperage are two different things, related by Ohm's Law.
 
Got the rear heater hooked up and operating. The valve is in a temporary location, it will get moved down some, I had a spare hole there so I used it for mounting. This effort was just to get this into operation for testing before I paint the truck. This got me motivated to install the new dash panel so stay tuned.
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Another amazing weekend at Wolf Creek ski area. Storm rolled in and dumped POW all day long. Decided to stay overnight at Lobo Pass because the Powder was soooo good. Any Mud members in the area stop by in the am as my refrigerator is packed with beers.
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Too far from Las Cruces - chug one of those beers for me!:beer:
 
Greased up all my zerk fittings and went for a drive. Noticed a couple of drive shaft bolts were a little loose and tightened them up too. Grey and damp day here in the PNW.

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Resurrection Update: Got the tank POR15 lined, but unfortunately, didn't read the instructions fully and only used the pint can I had on hand. Shoulda used at least a pint and a half, as I probably got only about 2/3 to 3/4 of the tank lined. Aargh. Called POR15 and they said the liner will only stick to bare metal, not itself. What's done is done. That said, the only places I missed (that I could see) were the baffles and part of the bottom. (That Braun LED light that was in a recent separate thread was super great for peeking inside the tank).

Keeping the tank full of fresh/stabiled gas will curtail most of any future rust. Also replaced the 40+ year old rubber gas hoses going to and from the hard lines. One line was almost rotted completely through! Also took the opportunity to install a long held seat extender kit from Metric TLC at the same time as I was reinstalling the interior. I had to create a riser for the back end of the Tuffy to clear the seat rail bolt. Also had to cut down the passenger side lip on the seat mount to allow the passenger seat to slide in under the Tuffy. Much better seating position and I'm only 5'10". Interior reinstall done!

Next, will need to check the fuel pump for any crud, change the old oil/filter, and maybe the antifreeze. Also want to wire brush rust and POR15 axles, frame, and undercarriage. That'll all have to wait for warmer weather.
 
Put some new meats on the 40.

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[QUOTE="reddog90,
Are you making the run to Surfside with us Saturday?
[/QUOTE]


What run to Surfside? I haven’t been active with TLCC-H and their website looks deserted.
I’ll be putting up Xmas decorations 🙄🙄🙄
 

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