What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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Adding aftermarket steering column that is 2 inches in diameter. Had to cut the brake pedal and move it around the column. Took the time to bump the clutch a bit to the left for more foot room when shifting.... guess my feet are fatter than the normal guy.... Added an inch to both the brake an clutch while I was at it to lower them to a location closer to the floor. Now my heels can sit on the floorboard when not pressing. Just thought the stock location was a bit high. Also positioned and welded the gas pedal close to the tunnel....fat feet again.... Will take pictures in vehicle too once paint dries.

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Learned some stuff about modern Toyota electrical connectors. All part numbers start with 90980- and the specific connector part number is molded into the plastic. And if you google RM1022E it will take you to the Toyota document with information about servicing the connectors and it has drawings of all the part numbers. This one (90980-11070) is for my heater valve. It was used on SC300 and SC400 Lexus cars 92-00 I believe. Not many of those at the P&P. The plug is also used for the ambient temperature sensor on most Toyota cars made since the 90s.

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New dash in place. The top of the dash panel is folded over about 1/4" so it hangs on the top of the cowl. I wanted to fasten this without welding but I don't think that's possible since the windshield rubber seal sits right behind the top lip. Any ideas?

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New dash in place. The top of the dash panel is folded over about 1/4" so it hangs on the top of the cowl. I wanted to fasten this without welding but I don't think that's possible since the windshield rubber seal sits right behind the top lip. Any ideas?

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You need to weld it. Don’t cut corners on this one. What’s your plan to replace the bomb?
 
Had some fun with replacing my t-case shifter boot. My old one was thrashed.

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Purchased:
Used early FJ60 t-case boot (80-82) and new t-case inner boot from City Racer.

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My OEM inner boot was worn out:

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The City Racer inner boot (left) is nice and thick:

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New OEM FJ60 t-case shift knob and M8 Rivet Nut to convert the M10 threads to fit my shifter:

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You need to weld it. Don’t cut corners on this one. What’s your plan to replace the bomb?

You are correct, I believe the dash forms part of the structure of the cowl and it needs to be firmly attached. The bomb is going back in for now, just needed to remove so I didn't blow myself up grinding and welding in there. I'm considering going with the blazer tank in the rear in the future.
 
You are correct, I believe the dash forms part of the structure of the cowl and it needs to be firmly attached. The bomb is going back in for now, just needed to remove so I didn't blow myself up grinding and welding in there. I'm considering going with the blazer tank in the rear in the future.

good choice.

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