What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (40 Viewers)

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Thanks. Nerve damage is really tricky and weird. No way to force faster re-growth. It was primarily what they call a "stretch injury" where my leg was violently pull way behind my body. This damaged the main nerve that starts from your low spine and down the leg...splitting in two main directions. This rendered my quad, hamstrings and lower leg only partially functional. Also split my tibia badly. Have a metal plate and 9 screws in there and the bone is mostly healed, but teh nerves are still screws up. My wrist and hand have three broken bones, and nerve damage too. Not much fun.

Yikes! That sounds super intense. I wish the best for your recovery. I thought me stabbing myself in the thumb while popping a ziptie and losing all feeling permanently was rough. I hope everything works out though! The human body is a hell of a self-healing mechanism especially with nerves and especially if you have good docs.
 
Installed DBA Slotted Rotors and Front Pads. The rear pads still had over 50% left so I left them. The front where metal to metal at 40K miles

Much improved stopping power with the DBAs

I also installed rear lights on my Gamiviti rack. Now I am in a Quandary. Do I wire them up to the reverse light or run it to the dash with a switch? Hmmm something to ponder in my garage with a glass of Crown and a stoogie :D

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Installed DBA Slotted Rotors and Front Pads. The rear pads still had over 50% left so I left them. The front where metal to metal at 40K miles

Much improved stopping power with the DBAs

I also installed rear lights on my Gamiviti rack. Now I am in a Quandary. Do I wire them up to the reverse light or run it to the dash with a switch? Hmmm something to ponder in my garage with a glass of Crown and a stoogie :D

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Nice!! I installed some Rigid reverse lights in my rear bumper and tapped the hitch harness to flick them on when I reverse, but this weekend I'm adding roof mounted reverse lights and running them off a switch for times when it could pose a problem like parallel parking downtown. The Rigids are low enough I'm not too worried about blinding anyone.
 
I also installed rear lights on my Gamiviti rack. Now I am in a Quandary. Do I wire them up to the reverse light or run it to the dash with a switch? Hmmm something to ponder in my garage with a glass of Crown and a stoogie :D

My buddy wired his to come on both ways.
 
I'd do a switch. Lighting up a McDonald's parking lot when pulling out of your spot seems a bit brash


That is where I came to after I was done with my Stogie as well :D
 
Haven't really towed at all before getting my LC, but wanting to tow and carry my bike rack led me to the gen-y hitch because of the great reviews. The two-ball came with it, but I'll likely get a small uni-ball that drops down a tad bit for when I want to carry the bike rack and tow. Their torsion hitch looks super nice, but it's double the price (this was low $200's) so I'll eventually get that for use when towing a travel trailer.
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I also installed rear lights on my Gamiviti rack. Now I am in a Quandary. Do I wire them up to the reverse light or run it to the dash with a switch? Hmmm something to ponder in my garage with a glass of Crown and a stoogie :D

Switch. You'll find that the spoiler blocks the downward light, so these will really shoot way far behind the truck at head height. You probably won't want to use them under normal circumstances (I only use mine when setting up camp at night).

If they were in the bumper I might have a different opinion.
 
Haven't really towed at all before getting my LC, but wanting to tow and carry my bike rack led me to the gen-y hitch because of the great reviews. The two-ball came with it, but I'll likely get a small uni-ball that drops down a tad bit for when I want to carry the bike rack and tow. Their torsion hitch looks super nice, but it's double the price (this was low $200's) so I'll eventually get that for use when towing a travel trailer.
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Be mindful that IF you end up towing a sizeable travel trailer you will be using a Weight Distribution Hitch. (I believe the LC manual recommends a WD hitch above 3K# or possibly 5K# - they have a whole section on towing.) And sometimes these WD hitch systems have their own tow ball setup. But in all cases you will want your trailer to be "level" once it is connected and the WD hitch is adjusted. To achieve that you may need to change the height of the tow ball. This system you have may work great. But you'll need to check once you get to that point.
 
Be mindful that IF you end up towing a sizeable travel trailer you will be using a Weight Distribution Hitch. (I believe the LC manual recommends a WD hitch above 3K# or possibly 5K# - they have a whole section on towing.) And sometimes these WD hitch systems have their own tow ball setup. But in all cases you will want your trailer to be "level" once it is connected and the WD hitch is adjusted. To achieve that you may need to change the height of the tow ball. This system you have may work great. But you'll need to check once you get to that point.

Toyota says to use a WD hitch when over 500# tongue weight. That typically translates to somewhere between 4000 and 6000#. The WD hitches aren't trailer-specific except for tongue weight rating, but yes every one I've ever seen has a different ball and hitch head as they transfer some of the tongue weight from the tow ball to your front axle through the shank. I actually had to buy a "drop shank" because my trailer is quite low relative to the LC. You most likely won't be able to safely use that Gen-Y shank with a WD hitch, though it would work fine with a small trailer in the 3k# range.

If you get to the point you need weight distribution you'll either want heavy duty rear springs or a firestone helper airbag setup, as even with WD there's a noticeable sag in the rear (even with the default ~1.5" rake). I have an article posted somewhere around here with details of my setup.
 
I'd do a switch. Lighting up a McDonald's parking lot when pulling out of your spot seems a bit brash

That is where I came to after I was done with my Stogie as well :D

No need to limit yourself. You can do a switch that gives you everything. Well, if everything's what you really want...
I frequently set up ground illumination/reverse lights like that with an ON/OFF/REVERSE (ON-OFF-ON) switch. This one is for a dome light but you get the idea.

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No need to limit yourself. You can do a switch that gives you everything. Well, if everything's what you really want...
I frequently set up ground illumination/reverse lights like that with an ON/OFF/REVERSE (ON-OFF-ON) switch. This one is for a dome light but you get the idea.

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Good call. A three position switch would be ideal.

I wonder if there's a way to wire up/program a SwitchPro panel to do this since I plan on using one of their kits.
 
Based on their website, it sounds like a good possibility "All systems now include external trigger option". I don't think they've posted an updated installation manual yet to confirm. Edit: after thinking about it, there's a good possibility that even if it will be able to use an external trigger, there probably won't be a way to override that trigger in its software, allowing it to function like an ON-OFF-ON switch.
 
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Lightweight mod. Actually preparing to put a couple large items back there. Incase anyone is curious the center row seats are absurdly heavy. I consider myself a fairly spry fellow but that long seat was rough to get out. I'd guess well over 175 pounds for the pair. Mind the mess and the loose panel, still waiting on my replacement seatbelt sensor. Hey! That missing fork...nice.

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I thought the "Lightweight Mod" meant you were planning a track day! :clap:
 
Today I scratched a small itch - something that has been nagging at me for awhile.

When I plug my VIN into TIS, it tells me the following (among a whole lot of other stuff):

Division: TOYOTA
Model: Land Cruiser
Grade: VX
Model Year: 2013

So ... why does the badge "VX" not appear anywhere on my vehicle? If a VX model is sold outside the U.S., there is a VX badge. Just seemed wrong to me.

I found a seller on ebay in Australia (sydneycityparts) who was selling Toyota genuine VX badges, ordered one, and stuck it on today:

VX3_14MAR17_zpsxacldnkw.jpg


The badge came with a full set of instructions and templates to facilitate installation:

VX1_14MAR17_zps7ofoleag.jpg


Close-up for any who want the Part Number:

VX2_14MAR17_zpsn6jrzq4j.jpg


Now it feels like I have somehow restored "balance" to my rear:

VX4_14MAR17_zpsqsbafrhw.jpg


If anyone is interested, here is a link to the listing on ebay: TOYOTA LANDCRUISER VX BADGE 200 SERIES NEW GENUINE OEA1608 | eBay

HTH
 
Today I scratched a small itch - something that has been nagging at me for awhile.

When I plug my VIN into TIS, it tells me the following (among a whole lot of other stuff):

Division: TOYOTA
Model: Land Cruiser
Grade: VX
Model Year: 2013

So ... why does the badge "VX" not appear anywhere on my vehicle? If a VX model is sold outside the U.S., there is a VX badge. Just seemed wrong to me.

I found a seller on ebay in Australia (sydneycityparts) who was selling Toyota genuine VX badges, ordered one, and stuck it on today:

VX3_14MAR17_zpsxacldnkw.jpg


The badge came with a full set of instructions and templates to facilitate installation:

VX1_14MAR17_zps7ofoleag.jpg


Close-up for any who want the Part Number:

VX2_14MAR17_zpsn6jrzq4j.jpg


Now it feels like I have somehow restored "balance" to my rear:

VX4_14MAR17_zpsqsbafrhw.jpg


If anyone is interested, here is a link to the listing on ebay: TOYOTA LANDCRUISER VX BADGE 200 SERIES NEW GENUINE OEA1608 | eBay

HTH

What's the horsepower gain with the new badge?
 
Horsepower remains the same, but drag is reduced and cornering is vastly improved - it's all about aerodynamics and balance :doh:
 

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