What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (84 Viewers)

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You're fricken kidding. So the dude basically just needed a few parts and used ebay to scam it from you. Nice.

Seems like it. Kdsdanielhummer. Member since 05 with 100% feedback. But then again eBay doesn't let sellers rate buyers anymore. I have a hard time believing that Proffitts or ARB made that many mistakes on a locker. And suspicious that the guy suspected it was fake and took it apart without contacting me or ARB first and without any outward signs that it was fake. Oh well. I guess I still paid less than retail.
 
factory diff lock actuator disintegrated

As they do, when you mix steel, aluminium and water etc. Anyway after it died, I need to be able to driving the truck for a while, while deciding to replace it with a new toyota actuator, or go the ARB route.

Without the actuator in place there is nothing to stop the locker engaging 'mid-corner' /at speed. So I mounted a hacked up a cover/support plate and a spring/washer/c-clip to hold the actuator fork in the disengaged position.

Nor pretty, but functional for the short term, see attached picture. (Note obviously I also re-mounted the sensor switch/plate to cover that window as well.

/Pete

diy-diff-lock-actuator-lowres.jpg
 
Installed a new battery.
Old one was a bit tired: 200 CCA.....
 
Installled a new set of Tunda 18" steelies / tires. Picking up another set thus morning for paint and a set of 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers. The big 100k pm is Tuesday. Excited.
 
I did a rear ARB with ATRAC in a 2001 one time. I ended up pulling the ABS fuse when I went wheeling because having the rear locked in the early ATRAC seemed to confuse the system and it just made a lot of noise and rarely hooked up. I likes it open in the front better. At least it made ME feel better.
 
I did a rear ARB with ATRAC in a 2001 one time. I ended up pulling the ABS fuse when I went wheeling because having the rear locked in the early ATRAC seemed to confuse the system and it just made a lot of noise and rarely hooked up. I likes it open in the front better. At least it made ME feel better.

ATRAC only looks across an axle. If it were locked, ATRAC would thing you have perfect traction and do nothing. It was probably that power was being routed to the slipping front wheel. No benefit in pulling the fuse unless you actually want wheelspin.

Speaking of which... wasn't Rob working on an ATRAC defeat module?
 
Not a defeat module but a idea to fool the system with a flick of the switch. Either telling the abs ecu that the brakes were on or telling it a rear locker was engaged.

I still think a switch to point both left and right to a common sensor would do the trick as long as there wasn't an impedance problem. If it was picking up the same pulse rate it wouldn't interject. Would also need a passive override so that brake switch activation would return all four corners to factory to preserve ABS? VSC would also be inhibited. You could probably link it to something else like CDL or 4Lo so that it passively returned to normal on the highway. Wouldn't want to inhibit a safety mechanism by inadvertently leaving it on.
 
Oh man what HAVEN'T I done.

Started out replacing all the shocks because it felt a little bouncy.

Took off the front wheels and realized my sway bar end link was broken, so I ordered those. Meanwhile I move to the back....

Realize my pads and rotors are in rough shape so I ordered those...

Get back to the front and see hey these cv boots look like they are leaking grease, better change that too.

and THEN oh look! these ball mount dust covers are torn too! better order those.

All in all, glad it's not my DD cus it was on jack stands for 2 weeks with an hour or two every day.

Finished the passenger CV boot cus that was worse, I'm gonna drive it for a week or two before I tackel the driver side. I'm sick of working on it :)

tl;dr: shocks, sway bar end links, rear pads and rotors, passenger side CV boots.
 
this week... i've advertised the beast on here and lcool.org in both classifieds sections due to unemployment.
It's a very reluctant sale as i've owned it since new and had no intention of selling it.
 
I found what 13 years of coins looks like...

I'm guessing you didn't pull all that out to collect the 20 bucks or so worth of coins...so, what's on the agenda??
 
Maybe all of his pants have holes in the pockets!
 
I don't want to touch any abs sensor wiring. I don't want to compromise reliability.

My "brakes on" idea would shut off ABS so, yes, you need to toggle back to get all of your safety features. the Locker signal would not shut off ABS, VSC or TRAC, but only ATRAC. this is assuming the ABS ECU still has the locker program resident.

I still think a switch to point both left and right to a common sensor would do the trick as long as there wasn't an impedance problem. If it was picking up the same pulse rate it wouldn't interject. Would also need a passive override so that brake switch activation would return all four corners to factory to preserve ABS? VSC would also be inhibited. You could probably link it to something else like CDL or 4Lo so that it passively returned to normal on the highway. Wouldn't want to inhibit a safety mechanism by inadvertently leaving it on.
 
I'm guessing you didn't pull all that out to collect the 20 bucks or so worth of coins...so, what's on the agenda??

I ran a few harnesses to the rear cargo area. Prepping for a compressor, air tank, electrical outlets, and a 1000W inverter.

OMG! Do you not have an ashtray? lol!

I do...it too was full of coins!

Maybe all of his pants have holes in the pockets!

The seats in the LC clean my pockets out! I must be the only one with this issue...lol

Collected a bag just like that while doing some interior work on mine recently. Funny.

I was amazed at how much money was under the carpet and seats. I don't have that metallic rattle anymore!
 
I don't want to touch any abs sensor wiring. I don't want to compromise reliability. My "brakes on" idea would shut off ABS so, yes, you need to toggle back to get all of your safety features. the Locker signal would not shut off ABS, VSC or TRAC, but only ATRAC. this is assuming the ABS ECU still has the locker program resident.

Tap the wheel speed sensor on the driver front tire, run a 2 way switch and your done. Unplugging that sensor kills all driver aids. I'm not sure if you need to restart the truck to enable them though. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. I've got several unused switches laying around.
 
Tap the wheel speed sensor on the driver front tire, run a 2 way switch and your done. Unplugging that sensor kills all driver aids. I'm not sure if you need to restart the truck to enable them though. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. I've got several unused switches laying around.

If you interrupt that speed sensor I would submit that a code will be thrown and a MIL will show. Plus a restart to clear it. It will work of course. Looking forward to your results.

I'm looking into methods that wont throw a code and do not require a restart much like Toyota does on the FJ Cruiser.

The ABS computer does have the r-locker input on it - I'm guessing that if activated it will confuse the abs and deact the ATRAC. Alternately the signaling the ABS computer that the brakes are on (via stop switch at the pedal) should inhibit the ATRAC as well. This method may cause other driver aids to react differently.
 

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