Yes many have and there's write ups here about it. Unfortunately, removal is the easy part
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (21 Viewers)
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Preped to fix the windshield "rivet" hole someone boogerd up
What is your strategy?
Jb weld this hole up. Haven't decided if I'm gonna re-drill it after or move it. Last guy just blasted some window weld in there which didn't work as it was leaking on my fuse box.
Got the 20 year old damaged tint removed from my ‘04 LX470 and then added ceramic on the clean slate. 15% all windows and 45% windshield. Made a huge difference…
Clean
45% on windshield???
The 100 community is awesome! I noted your comments over the years about Andy Le 's service of rebuilding ABS Brake Master Cylindar Boost Actuator Assy. My 100 has 357k miles on the original one so I wanted to get it rebuilt before it broke. Andy got back to me yesterday, Saturday. He told me he sends a $750 rebuilt one, then you send your core back and he refunds the $200 core. I gave him my Norcal zip for added shipping $. He told me he's in Norcal too and if I wanted to drive my truck there, he'd install it for me in 2.5hrs tomorrow (Sunday)! Pfffffffft, I did and 2.5 hrs later it was done and cost me $800 total!! He's a really great nice guy too! He seems to have a few of them so hit him up before its too late for you!!! BTW how sexy is that 100 helping a badass chopper?!?
I did, recently did the tint on my ‘25 LC, went 20% / 55%. Wanted a bit darker on the LX45% on windshield???
Amazing! Unfortunately they won’t ship to the US but having the part #s should hopefully make it easy to find someone that will.Found some on eBay, they’re a genuine Toyota part that start with PZ, which I think means Australia only
TOYOTA LANDCRUISER 100 SERIES WEATHERSHIELD PASSENGER SIDE 1998-2007 NEW GENUINE | eBay Australia
Landcruiser 100 Series Weathershield. LANDCRUISER 40 SERIES. tailored to suit your LandCruiser's body contours for a neat, integrated look. Landcruiser 100 Series All Jan 1998 - Aug 2007. TOYOTA YARIS WEATHERSHIELD DRIVERS SIDE 5 DOOR HATCH ONLY SEPT 11 - MAY 20.www.ebay.com.au
Might be worth jumping on if the shipping isn’t insane, our AUD is in your favour at the moment
Use a freight forwarder. Minimal extra cost, gets access to Aussie sellers that want to only ship to Aussie addresses.
Could you share Andy Le 's service info. May need his help soon. Thanks.The 100 community is awesome! I noted your comments over the years about Andy Le 's service of rebuilding ABS Brake Master Cylindar Boost Actuator Assy. My 100 has 357k miles on the original one so I wanted to get it rebuilt before it broke. Andy got back to me yesterday, Saturday. He told me he sends a $750 rebuilt one, then you send your core back and he refunds the $200 core. I gave him my Norcal zip for added shipping $. He told me he's in Norcal too and if I wanted to drive my truck there, he'd install it for me in 2.5hrs tomorrow (Sunday)! Pfffffffft, I did and 2.5 hrs later it was done and cost me $800 total!! He's a really great nice guy too! He seems to have a few of them so hit him up before its too late for you!!! BTW how sexy is that 100 helping a badass chopper?!?
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Slee puddle lights 
Nothing especially sexy to report here, except I've now got a date of 10th March for my LC to get the full works!
I've been waiting on more bits and bobs to arrive from Japan, but the general consensus is that anything being removed is being replaced with new OEM, so that's why it's taken a while to get to this point! I'd have liked to have done some of this myself but we're currently at the start of a lengthy process of buying a new house (new to us, but over 300 years old) which means I'm a good 3-4 months away from having anywhere to work on this old thing.
Current list is as follows:
- Brake fluid flush
- Rear diff seal replacement & new fluid
- Both front LCA & UCA replacement + new frame bush on both sides
- Both sides front Bearings, needle bearing, discs, pads & CV axles
- Front diff bushes and fluid
- Transfer box fluid
- Steering Rack replacement, new hoses & New Fluid
- EGR replacement with OEM delete kit/Inlet manifold complete Clean/Valve Adjustment/Injector Seals
- Radiator, thermostat, & hose replacement + T pieces and hoses
- Timing Belt, Waterpump, Cam seal, Tensioner etc
- Front droplinks & Anti roll bar bushes
- Rear Height control linkage (currently consists of a bent piece of threaded bar!)
- Rear upper & lower control arms & panhard bar
- Rear droplinks and ARB bushes
One thing I am hoping to do before it goes in is cross-level the front torsion bars and adjust the height sensors, and potentially swap out the rear heigh control linkage myself if I can, but the issue I'm finding is that I can't find anywhere perfectly flat (even car parks are sloped), so I'm currently back to the drawing board on that front.
In other news, I installed the 'Yatour' bluetooth module which has been a big upgrade over the crappy cigarette lighter bluetooth FM transmitter. Whilst reassembling, I took the opportunity to hold off reinstalling the side trim for the centre console which houses the hazard light switch. The bulb has gone in it, so at night I don't have visibility of where it is (which is more problematic for my wife if she's driving it).
I've got a replacement bulb coming after I found the P/N in an old thread on here, so will hopefully get that refitted early next week when these parts arrive.
I've been waiting on more bits and bobs to arrive from Japan, but the general consensus is that anything being removed is being replaced with new OEM, so that's why it's taken a while to get to this point! I'd have liked to have done some of this myself but we're currently at the start of a lengthy process of buying a new house (new to us, but over 300 years old) which means I'm a good 3-4 months away from having anywhere to work on this old thing.
Current list is as follows:
- Brake fluid flush
- Rear diff seal replacement & new fluid
- Both front LCA & UCA replacement + new frame bush on both sides
- Both sides front Bearings, needle bearing, discs, pads & CV axles
- Front diff bushes and fluid
- Transfer box fluid
- Steering Rack replacement, new hoses & New Fluid
- EGR replacement with OEM delete kit/Inlet manifold complete Clean/Valve Adjustment/Injector Seals
- Radiator, thermostat, & hose replacement + T pieces and hoses
- Timing Belt, Waterpump, Cam seal, Tensioner etc
- Front droplinks & Anti roll bar bushes
- Rear Height control linkage (currently consists of a bent piece of threaded bar!)
- Rear upper & lower control arms & panhard bar
- Rear droplinks and ARB bushes
One thing I am hoping to do before it goes in is cross-level the front torsion bars and adjust the height sensors, and potentially swap out the rear heigh control linkage myself if I can, but the issue I'm finding is that I can't find anywhere perfectly flat (even car parks are sloped), so I'm currently back to the drawing board on that front.
In other news, I installed the 'Yatour' bluetooth module which has been a big upgrade over the crappy cigarette lighter bluetooth FM transmitter. Whilst reassembling, I took the opportunity to hold off reinstalling the side trim for the centre console which houses the hazard light switch. The bulb has gone in it, so at night I don't have visibility of where it is (which is more problematic for my wife if she's driving it).
I've got a replacement bulb coming after I found the P/N in an old thread on here, so will hopefully get that refitted early next week when these parts arrive.
hoser
SILVER Star
Nice! It's about time. Mud folks have been chopping down Australian bull bars since 2007 and before.TCC said they’ll have an LX specific which will “follow shortly”.
Longrange America is the US distributor.
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Featured 100 - Snook
Let see where do I start? I have owned Toyota models ever since 1981: 1981 - New 1980 Supra. (Sold to my sister when I moved to NorCal from Show Me State) 1989 - New 1990 4Runner (My kids, dog & mother-in-law didn't exist at that time so I had to sell it after running out of interior...
forum.ih8mud.com
Yes, I found him in the UZJ100 fB group. He said to give you his # 916-668-9638
Log into Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/andy.le.395891?mibextid=ZbWKwL
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This happened a few weeks ago now but the truck has been down and I have been focusing on keeping my project tundra on the road. I took this to a shop to get what I thought was an easy fix done and they bent me over and rigged up the crank sensor that was broken off the oil pump housing. Good news they only charged me a grand to rig it..... ****. So now I am trying to figure out a plan of action on what to do with this mess.
It would be sold by now if I didn't just have a rack and timing belt service done.
It would be sold by now if I didn't just have a rack and timing belt service done.
Irishpilot
SILVER Star
First-time post for me. Long time reader!
Making my way through maintenance baseline. I’ve done oil, Alignment, filters, rear seatbelt replacements, radiator, etc. Decided to knock out greasing drivetrain, front and rear differential oil, and transfer case today.
I’m pretty sure diffs snd transfer case hadn’t seen new fluid in a long time, if ever. For those of you on the fence about baselining, unless you have maintenance records explicitly stating work was performed, assume it was not. My Cruiser had several annotations in its dealer records stating “fluids filled” or “fluids topped off.”
Making my way through maintenance baseline. I’ve done oil, Alignment, filters, rear seatbelt replacements, radiator, etc. Decided to knock out greasing drivetrain, front and rear differential oil, and transfer case today.
I’m pretty sure diffs snd transfer case hadn’t seen new fluid in a long time, if ever. For those of you on the fence about baselining, unless you have maintenance records explicitly stating work was performed, assume it was not. My Cruiser had several annotations in its dealer records stating “fluids filled” or “fluids topped off.”
The gear oil looked okay, that magnet on the drain plug didn't...
