You forgot to mention it was all downhill with a large sail and 50mph tailwind.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (33 Viewers)
- Thread starter SHUSH
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Nice! I’ve only gotten up to 17.5 per Fuelly. My mpg-ometer is always a little optimistic. 420 miles to a tank is awesome though. I may have to start using the odometer to see if my miles to empty ends up being far off too. It usually gives me 365ish miles to empty on a fill up.
I think I posted this a while back but in a wrong thread.
For a cruiser that has 10-ply 35-inch tire, this absolutely cancels out everything about them on how these tires can be stiff. It rides like it came out of the line in 06 again. My plan is to do this every 18 months going forward.
For a cruiser that has 10-ply 35-inch tire, this absolutely cancels out everything about them on how these tires can be stiff. It rides like it came out of the line in 06 again. My plan is to do this every 18 months going forward.
Finally got around to tracing the cable of the aftermarket microphone. I discovered the var had an old Isimple Connect bluetooth module. Figured out how to pair it and now I have better call quality (the oem was garbage) and can stream my music.
How's the screen glare on the Alpine? Any problems tilting it?
I don't mind the size, and really prefer a 9" to run Gaia vs. on a tablet, but wonder how it compares to the Kenwood. Thanks.
Les Summer
SILVER Star
I decided to install a Wolfbox G850 Pro
Was paranoid about my DVD overhead player draining the battery (have heard of that issue here) and the squeaking was getting annoying, so I gutted the OEM case. Not really much usable space so down the road I’d like to try to make a molle panel with a brighter LED light to replace the stock dome light / DVD player arrangement.
You know you could just remove the DVD player and put back the factory oem light. Thats what I did.
It's actually on my to-do list to pull that out of my cruiser & get measurements to 3D print a replacement for the drop-down portion - not sure what I'll store up there yet, but it's gotta be a excellent jelly bean storage spot!
Not in my case. I actually pulled it today to check out that possibility. This is a Toyota DVD player that requires a ton of headliner cutting to install - there’s a huge hole under it filled by a backing plate. Wish I could install a LC light easily!
Edit: here’s a post showing this system: 03-06 100 series OEM DVD system new in bags - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/03-06-100-series-oem-dvd-system-new-in-bags.1064280/
Last edited:
It's actually on my to-do list to pull that out of my cruiser & get measurements to 3D print a replacement for the drop-down portion - not sure what I'll store up there yet, but it's gotta be a excellent jelly bean storage spot!
If you make this happen, sign me up for one!! Would like to try to store sunglasses if space allows after turning my sunglasses holder into a Scangauge holder.
Heck yeah! I'll try to pull that out tomorrow before I leave for work travel this week & get some CAD going!
Trying to troubleshoot my check engine light and misfire problems. (2000 LC with 327k miles)
I had a check engine light a couple months ago, P0300, went away after swapping in two new Denso coils. But a week and half ago, the CEL light came back, now with 4 codes according to my scanguage - P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0307. The LC idled kinda rough, vibrated at idle when in drive, slightly less with the A/C on. And I could smell unburnt fuel in the exhaust with the drivers window open. It would also sometimes take a while to crank if the engine was still hot.
First tried swapping around the coil packs again and even put in newer denso spark plugs in Cylinder 1 & 2. But the P0300, P0301, p0302 codes would come back within like 10 miles of driving.
Today I replaced the serpentine belt , the air filter and the P/N - 17030-50070 “idle up hoses”, cleaned the Throttle Body, the MAF sensor and left the battery unplugged for a while so that the ECM could reset.
I also checked the fuel injectors for resistance, all were between 14.6 - 14.9 Ω. So decided to check the crank sensor, and the top of it was completely covered in gunk..
I couldn't get the connector off so I just cleaned it up pretty well and reinstalled.
The LC took a couple trys to start. But after idling for a bit, the fuel smell is pretty much gone and so are the vibrations.. I drove about 40 miles doing errands and highway driving, without CEL coming back on.
If the CEL comes back...I'll probably look into rebuilding the Fuel Injectors and new crank sensor. If anyone might have other suggestions or tips, please clue me in.
I had a check engine light a couple months ago, P0300, went away after swapping in two new Denso coils. But a week and half ago, the CEL light came back, now with 4 codes according to my scanguage - P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0307. The LC idled kinda rough, vibrated at idle when in drive, slightly less with the A/C on. And I could smell unburnt fuel in the exhaust with the drivers window open. It would also sometimes take a while to crank if the engine was still hot.
First tried swapping around the coil packs again and even put in newer denso spark plugs in Cylinder 1 & 2. But the P0300, P0301, p0302 codes would come back within like 10 miles of driving.
Today I replaced the serpentine belt , the air filter and the P/N - 17030-50070 “idle up hoses”, cleaned the Throttle Body, the MAF sensor and left the battery unplugged for a while so that the ECM could reset.
I also checked the fuel injectors for resistance, all were between 14.6 - 14.9 Ω. So decided to check the crank sensor, and the top of it was completely covered in gunk..
I couldn't get the connector off so I just cleaned it up pretty well and reinstalled.
The LC took a couple trys to start. But after idling for a bit, the fuel smell is pretty much gone and so are the vibrations.. I drove about 40 miles doing errands and highway driving, without CEL coming back on.
If the CEL comes back...I'll probably look into rebuilding the Fuel Injectors and new crank sensor. If anyone might have other suggestions or tips, please clue me in.
Tackled the AT tranny fluid, swapped in/out about 8 qts total after doing a few "cycles". Mobil 1 oil/filter change too. Got what I need to grease driveshaft, hoping to tackle that today/tomorrow. Also gave her a MUCH needed wash, clay bar, and wax. Ready for another 5k miles!
Stock audio wiring size is not optimal for SQ-L purposes so I have been slowly but surely rewiring all components and tackled task of feeding wires through the door cable raceway over the weekend, task appeared to be very reasonable initially. Once I started the process, reasonableness waltzed right out the effing door. Four skinned knuckles, decently banged up thumb and several new made curse words later, I got it done. Even though it has plenty of space to host/feed 6 14gauge wires, it is the ackward angles and rubber raceway being "anchored down" to the existing wires on both ends made it a hassle. Result was even more satisfying after I punted OEM connectors in favor of XT60 units, I am obsessed with them.
Tip = tie off all your wires into a batch via tess tape, make it as rigid as possible. Feed it through as one instead of one-sie two-sie.
Tip = tie off all your wires into a batch via tess tape, make it as rigid as possible. Feed it through as one instead of one-sie two-sie.
Exiled
SILVER Star
Another option here is to find a generic MOLLE panel that can bolt in to help cover and also useful to keep small/light stuff handy!
Nice - any chance you can share a link? Considering refoaming but this seems easier.
New to me '01 LX 470 was reading 16.5+V. I found the very helpful thread here that showed the problem was very likely a dirty/corroded fusible link and/or fuses. I cleaned up all the connection points and installed new fuses using dilectric grease on all metal-to-metal contact. I also took the opportunity to change the 7.5A alternator* fuse with a diode recommended in the thread to slightly increase the voltage to appropriately charge an AGM battery. Working great!
Untitled by ColonelJLloyd, on Flickr
Untitled by ColonelJLloyd, on Flickr
Untitled by ColonelJLloyd, on FlickrUntitled by ColonelJLloyd, on Flickr
Friendly reminder, your VA safety inspection is expired heh
Absolutely
You just have to make sure you wire the woofer to get the 8ohms its explained in the video.
Woofer link
Install video I used
