What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (15 Viewers)

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Replaced Front Diff, Transfer Case, Rear Diff fluids and used the band straps on my heat shields to finally get that annoying vibration/rattle to stop. The rear looked like it had been replaced recently but the front diff and especially the transfer case were dark and smelly. Minimal metal shavings, nothing big or stood out.
 
Reindexed torsion bars, modified front diff support bracket to drop front diff 1", removed spring spacers and installed medium rear 2.5" springs, installed iron man foam cell shocks, and now driving it!!!
 
No doubt. Which series? I had 165K2 PolyKevlar's components in a previous car and they are astonishingly good. My brother has a silly expensive pair of their home speakers (1038BE's) and they are rad as well.
Nothing exotic, really - just the R-165S2 up front and the R-165C in the rear.
 
New Shocks, TJM Golds. Big difference!!!! :cheers:

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Hi Duiser, that is a big difference in thickness.
I thought I could get away with the standard points, but by seeing this, I think it is better to replace them with aftermaket ones.
 
The ones that came on most 100s are tie down points used in shipping/moving. Not recovery points.
 
Bought some 2011 18" Tundra Wheels with BF Goodrich Tires off of Craigslist. Got the set of 4 for $450. Sure looks better than the 16" Wheels and Michelin tires.
 
I almost forgot! I would like to thank @Duiser Offroad for hooking me up with the winch. This thing was so much bigger than I anticipated when it arrived but I can't wait to try it out. It looks great with the bumper too!
 
Set of 5 BFG Mud Terrains.
Installed Light Racing (SPC) upper A-arms. Then aligned.
Cranked the torsion bars about an inch.
Installed clear corner lamps.
Washed.

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4 New tires, wheel alignment, and installed a set of Super pro poly steering rack bushings.....what a difference this made. The truck has 204K on it, and the old bushings were pretty bad. Steering feels so much tighter, and the play is almost nothing. Truck tracks dead straight as well....wish I had done this sooner. Next week new brakes on all 4 wheeels. Still have the jet engine whine from th front of the motor, so just bought a sthetescope to diagnose.
 
Had a couple of remote keys cut and programmed so now I have more than just the one master key (that has no remote functions).
 
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Added some KCs
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After seeing Duisers comparison picture of the recovery points, I ordered aftermarket ones.
Can't wait to put them on, although I have to wait till after Xmas as it will be my Xmas present. :-)
 
Stayed at work a bit late tonight and pulled it into te shop and did a quick wash and cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor, also reset the ECU and let it relearn.

Also bought some used Tundra 18s two days ago and am getting them refinished as they're corroded beyond hell, seems to be common with new Toyota rims.

Anyone know of a decent all-season tire? (Yes, I searched). Gonna keep my 16s as my winter wheels.
 
Had a workshop drop the transmission and install a new clutch kit, some transmission bearings, and a rear engine bearing, as the trans was making some awful noises. Slave clutch cylinder was holding on one bolt, the other was sheared. That probably explains why my clutch has been playing games with me lately . Had that fixed as well. New transmission and transfer case fluid. Today they should weld a small crack on the axle housing, where the factory welding has given out. All in all for an amazingly cheap labor price: $115. And these guys specialize in Land Cruisers. What a difference there is in smoothness and noise reduction now!
 
Sliders are here, now to get them powder coated and installed...

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If you're going to actually use the sliders, skip the PC. I paid $200 to have mine done to match my BIOR rear bumper. After a few good hard hits and drags across rocks I was down to metal in multiple spots, so I touched them up and then recoated with the rattle can bed liner spray. It looks pretty darn good and has enough texture that they aren't
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