The seat is a recaro ergomed es (full electric + ventilation and heat). Picked it up used in good cond for a fraction of the cost of a new (and that is why it's black). For mounting I found it to be 2" lower than the oem seat, so I took the rails off the old seat, welded them together and mounted the new seat on top. Took me 4 hrs incl time to figure out what to do and time to slaughter the old seat for parts . For the seatbelt lock I cut of the piece it attaches to on the oem seat and welded it to the rail of the recaro (so it follows the position of the seat).
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (74 Viewers)
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^ this is the seat I've been eyeing...but damn no deals stateside I've found. How is this seat for padding/comfort when bouncing around at speed off-road?
Used it to haul the M416 project to the dump to drop off:
- random crap in the garage
- 4 bilsteins
- 100 quarts of oil, ATF, etc (not even kidding, I counted)
Added grip tape to the inside step on the sliders.
- random crap in the garage
- 4 bilsteins
- 100 quarts of oil, ATF, etc (not even kidding, I counted)
Added grip tape to the inside step on the sliders.
New driver side inner/outer door seals to stop the whistling in my ear.
Hi Dan,
I think i left a PM for you, not sure as i kept being logged out when submitting the reply. Give me a shout if you didnt get it.
I think i left a PM for you, not sure as i kept being logged out when submitting the reply. Give me a shout if you didnt get it.
Removed the Iron Man round halogen fog lights that came in my bumper. I am replacing with Rigid Dually D2 in a wide pattern. The factory fog switch and factory wiring will control the Rigid wiring harness. I cut a tiny piece of plastic at the back of the bezel and test fitted the mounting position. I just need to get shorter 5/16 carriage bolts to wrap up.
perrobravo
SILVER Star
Pic? I put HID bulbs in mine and haven't been thrilled with the light using the Iron Man housings.
This is an installed shot. I will try to grab a light output shot later.
I got one side done and the wiring all done and tested, but I need to remove my 1.5 gallon air tank that is behind my drivers side fog light in order to get to the bolts. Hopefully I will have time later today. After I am done with both sides, I am going to mount my ARB compressor behind my passengers side fog light and maybe reinstall the tank. (if I don't reuse this tank I will put a different one in later.) S
S
I am switching from a divorced Puma setup to the ARB primarily due to the fact that the puma likes a dry environment vs the water resistant ARB and behind my fog lights ate anything but dry. I will reuse the Puma setup in my M101a3 trailer build.
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Here are a few shots of the finished work.
Note, you will need to cut a little plastic off of the top backside of the bezel as the Rigid bracket hits otherwise. It's quick and easy and you can't see it from the front.
Cigarette Lighter replacement w/ dual USB
Posted this in reply in the 80 series section earlier today to an 80 series thread on topic. Reposting to 100 series thread...
Land Cruiser Series 100 Cigarette Lighter replacement with Dual USB port
I replaced the cigarette lighter with a dual USB charger socket in my 2006 series 100 Land Cruiser today. I searched -- perhaps ineffectively -- for instructions. It took me a couple of hrs to figure it out. Here is what I did.
Part: Blue Sea Systems Dual USB Charger Socket.
1) Disconnected the battery ground, wrapped it in a cloth and secured it.
2) removed the ash (spare change) tray which allowed me to put my hand behind the lighter assembly.
3) Foremost, the lighter cylinder and the housing (all parts) come out. They are not removed from the inside.
4) Used small screwdriver from outlet side to push the small white plastic tab located in the lighter cylinder. This white tab (a part of the white housing) holds the lighter cylinder in place. I basically just destroyed the tab. This allowed me to rotate the metal cylinder about 1/4 turn (clock-wise, I believe) and pull the metal cylinder partially out.
5) I was then able to to rotate the white housing a 1/4 turn (counter clockwise) so the retaining tabs aligned with the slots in the dash panel and pull the entire assembly out.
6) Clipped the wires and replaced connector with 16-14 gauge Audio 1/4 female connectors (available at any auto parts store) which fit the two male connectors on the dual usb socket.
7) unclipped the green lighter light (it gets hot) and pushed it behind the dash.
8) slipped the retaining nut over the power and ground wires (which will be connected to the dual usb socket)
9) I used a dremel tool to ever so slightly (very very slightly) increase the circumference of the hole in the dash to accommodate the usb socket.
10) connected the wires to the usb socket and slipped the socket in the hole.
11) reached in tightened the retaining nut over the usb socket.
12) reconnected battery
13) I now have dual USB ports to charge my ipad and iphone, gps. Works great.
P.S. Make sure your testing the connections before you insert the socket and tighten it in place.
Posted this in reply in the 80 series section earlier today to an 80 series thread on topic. Reposting to 100 series thread...
Land Cruiser Series 100 Cigarette Lighter replacement with Dual USB port
I replaced the cigarette lighter with a dual USB charger socket in my 2006 series 100 Land Cruiser today. I searched -- perhaps ineffectively -- for instructions. It took me a couple of hrs to figure it out. Here is what I did.
Part: Blue Sea Systems Dual USB Charger Socket.
1) Disconnected the battery ground, wrapped it in a cloth and secured it.
2) removed the ash (spare change) tray which allowed me to put my hand behind the lighter assembly.
3) Foremost, the lighter cylinder and the housing (all parts) come out. They are not removed from the inside.
4) Used small screwdriver from outlet side to push the small white plastic tab located in the lighter cylinder. This white tab (a part of the white housing) holds the lighter cylinder in place. I basically just destroyed the tab. This allowed me to rotate the metal cylinder about 1/4 turn (clock-wise, I believe) and pull the metal cylinder partially out.
5) I was then able to to rotate the white housing a 1/4 turn (counter clockwise) so the retaining tabs aligned with the slots in the dash panel and pull the entire assembly out.
6) Clipped the wires and replaced connector with 16-14 gauge Audio 1/4 female connectors (available at any auto parts store) which fit the two male connectors on the dual usb socket.
7) unclipped the green lighter light (it gets hot) and pushed it behind the dash.
8) slipped the retaining nut over the power and ground wires (which will be connected to the dual usb socket)
9) I used a dremel tool to ever so slightly (very very slightly) increase the circumference of the hole in the dash to accommodate the usb socket.
10) connected the wires to the usb socket and slipped the socket in the hole.
11) reached in tightened the retaining nut over the usb socket.
12) reconnected battery
13) I now have dual USB ports to charge my ipad and iphone, gps. Works great.
P.S. Make sure your testing the connections before you insert the socket and tighten it in place.
Did a night trip last Saturday on our local Powerlines.
Was a great night and it took a bit longer then expected. Was home at 1.15am but we had a great time.
There was a lot of very powdery dust on the track, like bull dust.
No issues with the LX, but I touched the side of a rut when climbing up a hill and pushed the front guard in. It is now touching the edge of the door when opening. I have to find a way to pull it out again to create a gap.
Was a great night and it took a bit longer then expected. Was home at 1.15am but we had a great time.
There was a lot of very powdery dust on the track, like bull dust.
No issues with the LX, but I touched the side of a rut when climbing up a hill and pushed the front guard in. It is now touching the edge of the door when opening. I have to find a way to pull it out again to create a gap.
Kirk, Can you adjust the lights? Also, are these flood type? Can you "legally" use the leds pods as fog lights? Wondering if they are too bright for incoming traffic.
Frank
fireball
SILVER Star
Are those the same lights as you have on top of the bumper? If so why did you choose to run them in both locations?
I put Piaa amber yellow fog lights in my arb bumper. The 4" round lights fit perfectly had to build a custom simple bracket to mount them. Love the yellow light output.
Sent from my iPad
I put Piaa amber yellow fog lights in my arb bumper. The 4" round lights fit perfectly had to build a custom simple bracket to mount them. Love the yellow light output.
Sent from my iPad
Remade my storage platform that was in my old truck
Muddy Bean
Breaking something or fixing something
Did it work? I have the whistling too. I replaced my inner door seal and it didn't fix the problem. Maybe it's the outer that's whistling?
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent.
Yes, they are adjustable. They are Rigid Dually D2 in a Wide beam pattern. (30 degree wide pattern)
They are not DOT approved, but neither are the OEM ones in the Iron Man bumper. I have them aimed low for fill half way in between the front of the truck and the low beam aiming point. I used them this am for 45 miles on the way to work this morning and didn't get flashed once. I'm very happy so far.
Nope, they are not. The ones on top are Dually D2 in a driving beam pattern. The ones in the bumper are Dually D2 in a wide pattern aimed low, half way in between the front of truck and the low beams aiming point. I like a nice amber light for severe fog and or white out snow conditions which is why I bought the snap on amber covers for these, I tried the covers this am and they do a great job. I prefer the whiter output of these without covers for normal driving.
Here are a few output shots.
This is low beams only.
This is low beam plus the Dually wide beams.
This is low, wide and driving.
This last one is low, wide, driving and a pair of roof mounted Dually spots aimed past the driving lights.
Installed both a HAM and CB radio. I opted for the Yaesu FT-8800 R/E and Cobra 75 CB. Best $100 I ever spent...having some professional help do both in a fraction of the time it would have taken me, not to mention the headaches! One must know both his strengths...and weaknesses...and again...this was money well spent on my part! I placed the removable control faceplate in one of the single DIN slots below my stereo, the base radio unit in the smaller cubby in the rear, with additonal holes for ventalation, and the CB just to the right off of the center console.
