What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?

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I bought a new set of hubs pre-drilled from @cruiseroutfit You can also drill them yourself or have a local machine shop do it.

I originally thought I would go with a 4 large + 2 small dowels to allow the use of the original toyota axles in an emergency but went with all large dowels for maximum strength.

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Going to try to take care of it myself, if not I will be placing an order!

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I bought a new set of hubs pre-drilled from @cruiseroutfit You can also drill them yourself or have a local machine shop do it.

I originally thought I would go with a 4 large + 2 small dowels to allow the use of the original toyota axles in an emergency but went with all large dowels for maximum strength.

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That's the part I don't like about RCV 300Ms. by going to the larger dowels you can't use you old axles as trail spares with out carrying a none modified OEM hub to go with the OEM axles.
If they would have just stayed with the OEM size dowels Guys that wanted to could just stay with the two OEM dowels and stilled used your old axles for spares
As it is if you just mount up the RCV drive flange like @hisandhers80s did you don't get the benefit of any dowels.
Also it's really hard to get all 6 of those dowels drilled correctly and lined up. If your drill press has any run out the dowels can end up lose and if your trying to do it by hand well good luck with that.
Getting a per-drilled set of hubs is probably the best way to go. Unfortunately when I called Cruiseroutfitters I was told that they did not do the pre-drilled hubs.
I ended up drilling them myself and while they get the job done they did not turn out as good as I would have liked :confused:
 
Getting a per-drilled set of hubs is probably the best way to go. Unfortunately when I called Cruiseroutfitters I was told that they did not do the pre-drilled hubs.
I ended up drilling them myself and while they get the job done they did not turn out as good as I would have liked :confused:
I agree..hard to be accurate without the proper tools, I do have centering punches and a drill press, but thought it prudent that someone will skill do them.

I ordered my 6 dowel machined hubs 11/24. I am not sure if they stopped machining hubs since I ordered, or they started doing them after you ordered.
 
I just put a new head in and was told almost all new ones need a 15 amp. My old was 10 and it blew as well.
Got it working. Didn’t realize I needed to bypass the factory amp before turning it on. Had been planning to do that once I was done with the stereo install…
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I agree..hard to be accurate without the proper tools, I do have centering punches and a drill press, but thought it prudent that someone will skill do them.

I ordered my 6 dowel machined hubs 11/24. I am not sure if they stopped machining hubs since I ordered, or they started doing them after you ordered.
Your setup looks super clean!!
I’m sure it was before as I got the 300ms right after the came out.
 
I am picking something up today that has been on my "Want" list for a long time. This will open the door to a long term project 3 link, gears, lockers and full rebuild on both axles using OEM parts.

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Anyway to polish the knuckle balls? I was thinking a light grit sand paper or emery cloth.
 
I am picking something up today that has been on my "Want" list for a long time. This will open the door to a long term project 3 link, gears, lockers and full rebuild on both axles using OEM parts.

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Anyway to polish the knuckle balls? I was thinking a light grit sand paper or emery cloth.
There is this product... I've got some in the shop and will try to remember to snap a pic of it for you... that you slather on and then polish off with a drill mounted polishing head. It would do the trick, I think. I used to clean up the steelies on my 62, and it did wonders.
 
I am picking something up today that has been on my "Want" list for a long time. This will open the door to a long term project 3 link, gears, lockers and full rebuild on both axles using OEM parts.

View attachment 4106701

Anyway to polish the knuckle balls? I was thinking a light grit sand paper or emery cloth.
Grabbed a pic before I forgot…

IMG_7681.webp
 
That's the part I don't like about RCV 300Ms. by going to the larger dowels you can't use you old axles as trail spares with out carrying a none modified OEM hub to go with the OEM axles.
If they would have just stayed with the OEM size dowels Guys that wanted to could just stay with the two OEM dowels and stilled used your old axles for spares
As it is if you just mount up the RCV drive flange like @hisandhers80s did you don't get the benefit of any dowels.
Also it's really hard to get all 6 of those dowels drilled correctly and lined up. If your drill press has any run out the dowels can end up lose and if your trying to do it by hand well good luck with that.
Getting a per-drilled set of hubs is probably the best way to go. Unfortunately when I called Cruiseroutfitters I was told that they did not do the pre-drilled hubs.
I ended up drilling them myself and while they get the job done they did not turn out as good as I would have liked :confused:
After drilling one hub I can see where you said it was not perfect. I have decided to run two original pins and 4 larger pins and when/if it fails I will upgrade to the pre-drilled hubs. But for now this will do.

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Fixed my CDL dash light problem. I knew CDL was engaging...could hear it then feel it, but no dash light. Pulled sensor, paperclip test lit up dash light, sprayed contact cleaner in sensor, zapped it a bunch with 2 9v batteries in series, got it working. Replaced and got CDL light on. Front locker engaged, rear flashed, but I was pretty sure it was engaged. Did the same thing to the rear sensor and now it all works perfectly. I think I need to "exercise" them a bit more to keep the circuit functioning.
 
Fixed my CDL dash light problem. I knew CDL was engaging...could hear it then feel it, but no dash light. Pulled sensor, paperclip test lit up dash light, sprayed contact cleaner in sensor, zapped it a bunch with 2 9v batteries in series, got it working. Replaced and got CDL light on. Front locker engaged, rear flashed, but I was pretty sure it was engaged. Did the same thing to the rear sensor and now it all works perfectly. I think I need to "exercise" them a bit more to keep the circuit functioning.
I do not have the luxury have having front and rear lockers yet but every month I will lock the center differential manually and with the switch.
 
Got it working. Didn’t realize I needed to bypass the factory amp before turning it on. Had been planning to do that once I was done with the stereo install…View attachment 4106683
This is a great day - no longer stuck in the world of FM radio. For some reason thought it was only going to drive the door speakers but is driving all of them including rear ceiling and subwoofer. And speakers sound much better than I expected. No hurry to upgrade until I blow them out…
 
Took off at lunch today in the name of watching March Madness with the full intention of working on the cruiser! Got the ABS/LSPV delete finished and also finished rebuilding the new rear axles (RCV 300M) and got the rear third member with the new 4.88’s and ARB air locker installed today! Almost forgot the new DBA brakes as well!

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While you gained strength there you did not gain the main benefit. Which is more dowels in the hubs, I really suggest you get those hubs drilled and set up with the x6 dowels for each. Without it you only installed stronger shafts which will sheer your stock hub studs/dowels.

Cheers
 
Going to try to take care of it myself, if not I will be placing an order!

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Be careful, every single Harbor Freight drill press I have had or used doesn’t drill even close to straight! Not worth using on anything but wood projects that don’t require precision.

I see you have gone for it and done some things yourself. I am going to leave my posts since they are meant to be a warning to people who DIY.

Cheers
 
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