What did you do with your 60 this weekend?

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1988hj61 said:
I used it to pick up some plywood for a cabinet project. It then refused to start after the afternoon of functioning as wood storage. Any 24V guys out there??

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Nice looking wagon!

Do you have good battery voltage? If so, I'd check the starter relay, and make sure all of the grounds are clean and have good contact. On a LHD 70 series the starter relay is located in the LH inner fender panel, near the battery tray. Check the FSM/EWD for the location in your truck, but it should be somewhere near the high side battery in your RHD 60. The relay and grounds are quick easy things to check and/or rule out.

Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs)

Factory service manuals (FSMs) for your Toyota Land Cruiser ! From the 1950s to the present!
www.cruisercult.com www.cruisercult.com

svsisu

Post in thread 'What did you do on your 70 series today?'

Replaced the starter relay... the old one was pretty tired and left me having to push start to get home when I was 2 hrs away. New one installed and the truck fired right up so I went on a beach ride.

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1988hj61 said:
I used it to pick up some plywood for a cabinet project. It then refused to start after the afternoon of functioning as wood storage. Any 24V guys out there??

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Haha, I see in the 24v/diesel section that you solved your problem!

Given how corroded your battery terminal was you may want to look at replacing/upgrading your battery cables and grounds. @Fourrunner has nice replacements and would work with you on your 24v system

Fourrunner

Thread 'FJ60/FJ62 Heavy Duty Battery Cable Sets'

The kit costs $155.00 shipped (within US). International shipping is available.

The kit includes 5 cables and battery terminal connectors. This kit fits FJ60's and FJ62's. See below for additional kits (FJ40, FJ80 and FZJ80)

Kit includes:
Battery positive to starter cable (with protective boot - not shown in the pictures below)
Battery negative to fender and motor mount cables
Ground strap from head to firewall
Ground strap from starter to frame
1 Mil spec positive battery connector (not pictured)
1 Mil spec negative battery connector (not pictured)
Optional accessory - 1) Battery...
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svsisu said:
Haha, I see in the 24v/diesel section that you solved your problem!

Given how corroded your battery terminal was you may want to look at replacing/upgrading your battery cables and grounds. @Fourrunner has nice replacements and would work with you on your 24v system

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Thanks for the link, I'll take a look. I think the reason it wasn't obvious at first is that the other cables are all in very good condition. I actually feel even better about the truck now that I have spent two days checking grounds and connections. I will swap the terminal clamp and battery and just monitor it over the next few months.

Some lessons I just have to re-learn every time. There is no such thing as "it's just a little corrosion, the battery is only a year old...."

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NWxDrew said:
Speaking of seat covers. These won’t stop any spills, but they sure are comfy. Wife ordered them from Turkey as a Christmas present. Some might say they are “period correct”.
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Inspired, always wanted to try those beaded covers....lots of tiny little pressure points and breathability for down here in swampass country!
Gonna look great on my carhartts, already searching the webnet.
 
I was able to get out to the garage a few times over the weekend/ week to work on a couple things. First off, finally got to use a tool I've had for a while, the short/ open circuit finder by power probe.
The passenger rear door switch on my 60 has never worked to operate the dome light. I got a new switch and of course that didn't fix it. This tool hooks up to the battery and then into the circuit with the open. You use a receiver to trace the harness and it beeps when current is there and stops when it's gone. I ended up finding the pin in the blue connector at the LR to have corroded and broken off. I replaced the pin and were back in business.

From start to finish it took under an hour to find and fix this. Could it have been done without the tool, absolutely, but I didn't need to rip apart the loom or do anything overly invasive.
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I also started fiddling with my BMW seats and seat heat switches. I was trying to test the switches and seats using a Milwaukee M12 battery and a power source instead of running lines to the car battery. The switches would come on but turn off instantly. I thought it was an issue with the switches, as the wiring diagram for an E36 doesn't show an NTC wire going to the switch from the seat. It turns out there probably isn't enough amperage availabile from those little batteries.

I ran the wires up to my actual car battery and the switches work, don't shut off after a few seconds and get the seats nice and toasty. I used the thermal cam to verify. My seats stared out at 50° and got up to over 90° while on high. I was interested that only the thigh bolster shows the grid pattern. Thr back and bottom show heat markings on the edges of the back and bottom and get warmer as time goes on.

I've ordered some connectors from corsa technic to make a tidy little install which should be here next week. So I can hopefully have toasty buns before winter ends.
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Heavy offroarding, trying out the new ironman suspension i got.
What a world of diffrence, the rear shocks whete basically sitting there looking ugly with no support whatsoever.
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Ran into a sandstorm buried half my tent 😂 had to exist through the window
Woke up thinking why is the tent so small ??

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Got some new seats, was able to trade my OEM seats for these Corbeau seats. Had to modify the brackets a bit to get them bolted up, but well worth it. Have driven with them a few times and so much more comfortable, more lower back is loving the swap.
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Started fitting up AC finally after a few years without it. New compressor from Mr T and all custom hoses. New generic condenser and dryer as well. Planning to replace evaporator valve but not looking forward to ripping the dash apart to do that.

In other news I also found a very small leak in the top of the radiator fins just under the inlet. Need to investigate further to see if it can be repaired….
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Upgraded my tail/brake lights and turn signals to LED with the Digi-tails kit, so far it's awesome. Kit is well thought out, fits perfect, not horribly expensive. It got me thinking about reverse lighting now though. I've got these Diode Dynamics pod lights for another project so I grabbed one to see how it would fit into a modified housing. looks like I might have to grab a junk pair of housings and do some DIY Arts & Crafts. I'd also like to figure out a nice clean third brake light for this thing.

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RevISK said:
I thought the same thing.
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🖕 Buncha smartasses, lol! Running down the road at 55mph in Houston traffic doesn’t make it easy to snap pics when trying to avoid idiotic drivers! 🤣

Best I could do! 😁
 
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