What did I buy? No, really. (1 Viewer)

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'Merica
I promise the thread title isn't clickbait.

A buddy had an FJ40 of an unknown year sitting on his back lot for years. He recently sold the house and has to be out in two weeks so I asked him about the FJ. Long story short, I bought it for a song. However, he purchased it as a parts/donor vehicle so he didn't have a title or anything. The VIN was cut out of the frame who knows how long ago so I don't know what year it is and neither does he, though he guesses a 68 or 69. No engine, transmission, doors of any kind, top, seats, and more. But it came with a bunch of junk stored in it I have to chuck, so I've got that going for me.

I've done some reading and am confident in my ability to get a state-issued VIN and title it, though it's a LONG way from being ready to drive. I did get a bill of sale, and I used language similar to that found on the form my state uses for issuing a VIN.

Hopefully, the pictures will help one of you knowledgeable folks recognize some feature and know what the year is, or at least a 95% certainty of year so I can start looking for the missing body parts. I have an '06 LX470 and a '69 Jeepster Commando that I restored, but this is my first foray into FJ40s.

Thanks!

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I have a 1969 and this one is probably , exactly as you say , late 68 , early 69. Telltale is the amber apron reflectors , the round turn signals, the bib lamps, etc.. I would guess made just before 3/69. Why was the VIN cut from frame ?
 
I have been piecing a 69 40 back together that was disasembled at a body shop and all the little bits went missing. It cost a fortune these days to buy all the little things. Definitely wise to start with a complete truck. This does look like a 69. Could never register this in california with a cut out frame vin.. its missing its pass fender vin tag and the drivers pillar vin tag..so no way to identify it?
 
There is so much missing and cut up you should continue to part it out and find another 40. That’s my two cents.

"Shut yer whore mouth." - unknown

That said, I'm not sure the CHP or whomever is going to be super happy with the VIN being cut out. There are only a couple reasons for that and none of them are above board.

There are lots of parts around, but not a lot of nice frame/tub combinations. Get a stack of benjamins and attend:

Valley Hybrid's swap meet

Bakersfield

PMC Swap Meet - Petaluma in July, (hasn't been announced yet, but it happens reliably)

Just noticed the side steps with the trim, thought those ended in 68?

SOR says - 1963-10/69 FJ40
 
The 3/69 show a rectangle turn signal. The amber reflector were 68 and 69. My 9/67 owned since 1974 has the amber reflectors. Still have figured when the tall one level hood pads ended. Those are taller because of the windshield wiper change. Some time during 1968 Toyota switched to the ones that step down. This would also have the early center steering arm. Probably a couple holes were they removed the rivets for the bracket. Late 69s have a plate to mount the center arm. Are the holes the mount the tail lights offset or directly above and below each other? Offset are the large tail lights. Otherwise used the mid size light used during the mid sixties.
 
All great info and I appreciate it. When I restored my '69 Jeepster I started with a complete, 100% stock vehicle; I have no delusions about what I'm starting with here. That said, when I restored the Jeepster I made it too nice. We're looking to make this one not quite as pretty but still very capable.

Totally agree about the VIN getting cut out for sketchy reasons and Cali not being happy about it. That said, I'm military and I'll be registering it in another state (legally) and my reading on that state's DMV website makes it sound totally doable. We'll see what happens when I try, but I like my chances.

@Fast Eddy, you reference a SOR, what is that?
 
Specter Off-Road

Long time Cruiser and parts dealer. In Chatsworth, CA.
If you completed this truck with Specter as your main vendor, given all that is missing, you'll probably need to spend, at minimum 5 times the final value of the vehicle. A free (cheap) truck, like a free (cheap) boat, is not a great deal just because it's free or cheap!!! @fjc-man and @whitey45 have more experience with cruisers that 95% of members on this site, their advice is sound.
 
Yeah that‘s a serious vice in the back of that thing!

No ignition switch hole to the left of the gauge cluster, so probably on the steering column. Don’t know what year that transition happened though.
 
There's no way I rebuild my Jeepster without the help of lots of forums and knowledgeable folks online so I'm not discounting your experience. I went into that project with a great starter vehicle and it still cost me triple my initial estimate even when I did 90% of the work myself; I still couldn't recoup those costs even at today's insane BaT prices. That said, and I fully admit to having lots of ignorance and naiveté on what FJ parts cost, I'm thinking rear half doors, seats, rewire, drivetrain, and windshield are the major parts I need to make this a driver (clearly not a complete list, just the major stuff). I'm not looking to achieve shiny and beautiful, that's what the Jeepster is for, I want a fun vehicle I can cruise around town and take off road, and I think I can do that without breaking the bank ($10K). Am I wrong?
 
There's no way I rebuild my Jeepster without the help of lots of forums and knowledgeable folks online so I'm not discounting your experience. I went into that project with a great starter vehicle and it still cost me triple my initial estimate even when I did 90% of the work myself; I still couldn't recoup those costs even at today's insane BaT prices. That said, and I fully admit to having lots of ignorance and naiveté on what FJ parts cost, I'm thinking rear half doors, seats, rewire, drivetrain, and windshield are the major parts I need to make this a driver (clearly not a complete list, just the major stuff). I'm not looking to achieve shiny and beautiful, that's what the Jeepster is for, I want a fun vehicle I can cruise around town and take off road, and I think I can do that without breaking the bank ($10K). Am I wrong?
I’d say you could do it for less than 10k- if you’re frugal. Staying Toyota ain’t cheap, but there are other drivetrains out there. Start farming anything out and it’ll be tough, but you learned that lesson already.
I’m curious how titling it’ll work: homemade?
 
I'd go original 1f and a 3 speed, or a 2f/4 speed if you can find a deal. Motor/trans mounts look ok. At a swap meet you should be able to get motor/trans for $500. You might want to become friends with @landcrusher909. He's got parts and will be sympathetic to your cause. ;)

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Heres my two cents. I started with the first picture and over 2 1/2 months using used parts, rebuilding or replacing what I had. Reaching out to businesses like Valley Hybrids, Cruiser outfitters and Classic Cruisers I built a running driving 1971 for under 9K and thats after the purchase price. Take your time wait for the deals to present themselves and reach out to fellow Land Cruiser guys and gals. Fender were found on CL for 200 bucks, Barn doors from @orangefj45 hardward from Classic cruisers and @cruiseroutfit was there when I needed rubber and shifter boots. Glass was cut local for 160. So you see overall it can be done. as @Fast Eddy posted nothing wrong with a used F motor and I cant throw anything away. Good luck with your project. PM me if you need any help or advice

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@archie73, a police officer needs to sign off that there isn't a VIN anywhere on the vehicle (and I can show him/her the section of the frame from whence it was cut) and the state will then issue a new VIN. Once issued, an officer or the DMV needs to certify that it was properly affixed and a title can then be issued. Done and done. I intentionally had the bill of sale written as a bunch of parts (no VIN, no known liens, etc.) to help with the process.

@White Stripe, that's kind of what I'm thinking engine-wise. The Jeepster is essentially stock, so why not go a little crazy with this one? I realize a big motor and big tires would make staying within my budget tough, but who knows?

@landcrusher909, dude, bravo on your build. It's looks phenomenal! And gives me hope that you were able to do so on a reasonable budget, especially when our first pictures were somewhat similar. I am grateful to your offer of help, though I will confess to having a 1,000+ mile military move in just over three months and I'm not sure how much of this I'll be able to get to before moving. At a minimum, I would like to source the sheet metal before leaving So Cal since the weather here is so easy on vehicles!

@Living in the Past, I don't have it home yet so I can't answer your question about the tail lights.

Next step is to put on some cheap used tires to replace the square, rotten ones currently on it so I can get it home. That way it'll be a roller and I can move it around the garage/yard as needed (steering works).

I appreciate all the help!
 

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