Build Welcome home Matilda - faded like your favorite pair of jeans

[CruiserTrash]

Must be the length of the 75 springs . I forgot about those.
As for the axle housing, they have more pinion angle relative to the knuckle balls. It's about 4-6 degrees if I remember correctly. It's enough that you can get away without a cut and turn when doing a SOA on a 62 if you keep it low enough. Probably knowledge lost over the last few years since it's not popular to SOA anymore like it was when I started with Cruisers

The 75 springs make the shackle angle (using the stock frame hanger) much better. The center pin is the same distance from the fixed end as the 60 springs, so the wheel is still centered in the opening too … but the angle at the axle might be different. Shackle reversal isn’t popular either … maybe it never was. There are benefits but it’s so much more work than the available “kit” to get it dialed in, so I think it got a bad rap. Folks installed the kit, the truck drove like s***, then they wrote off the whole thing.

Is “more pinion angle” meaning that for the same given caster angle, the 62 housing has the diff flange rotated more towards the sky than the 60 housing? I think that’s what you’re trying to communicate, and it would be helpful for me. I just did a knuckle job so my desire to rebuild another axle is low at the moment, but it’s something to think about. Hard to find 62 complete part outs so I probably have time even if I were to start looking.

 

[cruisermatt]

Is “more pinion angle” meaning that for the same given caster angle, the 62 housing has the diff flange rotated more towards the sky than the 60 housing? I think that’s what you’re trying to communicate, and it would be helpful for me. I just did a knuckle job so my desire to rebuild another axle is low at the moment, but it’s something to think about. Hard to find 62 complete part outs so I probably have time even if I were to start looking.

Yes, exactly.
Get a complete axle and use everything else to put the good front brakes on your 40

 

[CruiserTrash]

Yes, exactly.
Get a complete axle and use everything else to put the good front brakes on your 40

The 62 axle angle is good intel, but when I move to the H55 I'd like to run a "normal" driveshaft without a double cardan joint. That lets me parallel the t-case and diff flanges, and I think the 62 axle would be working against the caster angle for that application. I'd have to figure out the offset angle between the diff flange and knuckle flat for each axle and do some theoreticizing on paper.

Unfortunately I'm an idiot and want to keep my 40 bone stock except for adding a dual circuit MC. I have this fantasy about having it be what it was when Toyota delivered it to a dealer lot in 1969. It's some sort of misplaced illusion of purity or something, I'm not sure ... but I'm far too committed to originality on that truck. Its purpose is going to be to take the kids about 1/2 mile away on Sunday nights to get ice cream and maybe once per month driving 6 miles to work on back streets, so the use case here isn't hyper critical. I mean, I've gone so far as to put new original-looking(ish) bias ply tires on it. That truck is an exercise in stupidity and I'm willing to own that.

Speaking of which I'm currently paused on scratch building a harness until I find green wire with orange stripe. Anybody got any leads for that color combo that's not 500' rolls?

 

[cruisermatt]

The 62 axle angle is good intel, but when I move to the H55 I'd like to run a "normal" driveshaft without a double cardan joint. That lets me parallel the t-case and diff flanges, and I think the 62 axle would be working against the caster angle for that application. I'd have to figure out the offset angle between the diff flange and knuckle flat for each axle and do some theoreticizing on paper.

Unfortunately I'm an idiot and want to keep my 40 bone stock except for adding a dual circuit MC. I have this fantasy about having it be what it was when Toyota delivered it to a dealer lot in 1969. It's some sort of misplaced illusion of purity or something, I'm not sure ... but I'm far too committed to originality on that truck. Its purpose is going to be to take the kids about 1/2 mile away on Sunday nights to get ice cream and maybe once per month driving 6 miles to work on back streets, so the use case here isn't hyper critical. I mean, I've gone so far as to put new original-looking(ish) bias ply tires on it. That truck is an exercise in stupidity and I'm willing to own that.

Speaking of which I'm currently paused on scratch building a harness until I find green wire with orange stripe. Anybody got any leads for that color combo that's not 500' rolls?

The pinion angle will be better for you. it's perfectly OK to have flanges not completely parrallel, especially for a front DS.

for the 40 I totally get it. I have a local customer that DD's a 100% original 67 and she absolutely loves it, single circuit MC and all. I totally get where you are coming from there.

Green/orange wire, have plenty in stock in 16/18awg txl, just let me know how much you need and your address and I'll mail you some and some stickers

 

[70 FJ40]

Hey, @CruiserTrash
I have an '81 FJ60. I'd like to lift it from stock height and inch or 2. Probably with Terain Tamer. Am I going to run into the same problem you've got with the driveline and caster angles or is yours a little more unique because of the shackles reversal?

 

[CruiserTrash]

Hey, @CruiserTrash
I have an '81 FJ60. I'd like to lift it from stock height and inch or 2. Probably with Terain Tamer. Am I going to run into the same problem you've got with the driveline and caster angles or is yours a little more unique because of the shackles reversal?

For a “standard” off the shelf 2-3” suspension lift kit you’ve got absolutely nothing to worry about. The shackle reversal provides 4-5” of lift and things start getting goofy up here. They get even goofier for people who go spring over axle, like @cruisermatt. Mo’ mods, mo’ problems.

On a 2-3” lift kit there’s a few small things that can make life better or give you peace of mind, and you can do them for relatively cheap while installing the suspension package. Extended frame-to-axle brake and clutch lines, shims in the front leaf pack when installing them, and the Old Man Emu “CBS01” part (center pin spacer for the rear axle perch) are the big three that come to mind. Lots of good info and part numbers here on the forum. Make sure you use steel shims and not aluminum.

 

[cruisermatt]

Tried to DM you to send you some wire but looks like your DM's are off.

 

[Bryan062087]

555 I believe. I put them in when I first got this truck 3-4 years ago. One day I may go to beefy DOM tube rods with bigger ends. That decision will be made if I break the stock setup. If the stock setup holds I'll keep using it.

Steering with the new stabilizer is improved by maybe 30% and I will absolutely take that. It wanders less on the highway. Yesterday the trail was super rocky and my steering wheel wasn't getting tossed around nearly as much. While not some sort of miracle, it's a win for both on-pavement and off-pavement situations.

You could also check your toe-in specs.

 

[CruiserTrash]

You could also check your toe-in specs.

I’m at just about 3/16-1/4”. 1/8” is a number I’ve heard around here, but I felt a decent improvement going a bit beyond that.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Tried to DM you to send you some wire but looks like your DM's are off.

I sent you a message

 

[CruiserTrash]

Best Father’s Day gift - a handmade drawing from my daughter inside of her card to me:

She thought it was bad, but I think it’s great! Ever tried to draw a Land Cruiser? I have and it’s really really hard to get the proportions right!

 

[CruiserTrash]

Little camping trip this weekend, good shakedown for SAS.

Nice little lakeside spot with our friends & their cool E350 with a bed in the back. Nice rig.

Lots of boating was involved

Sometimes I want to go somewhere and it involves canoeing to a far shore and then bushwhacking over crappy terrain, and possibly not knowing exactly where the goal is. I always promise people it’s easy and it’ll take about an hour round trip. Neither of those are ever true. We went on one of those adventures to see some ~700 year old Ute cairns. They’re in a secret location not near a hiking trail or road, don’t bother asking - it’s for the safety of the artifacts. I’ve already seen one that looks like it was pushed over since I was here a few years ago and another that looks like people added a few rocks.

Wildflowers were going full tilt

Dog had a good time

Wrapped up with our favorite burger & milkshake joint that’s 5 hours away from home

Only truck news to report is a small “click” sound when I first put my foot on the brake pedal. It won’t do it again if I’m stopped and just hitting the brake pedal over and over. I have to be rolling along and press, and it happens once. Then it won’t happen again until I accelerate or drive a little bit more. The same noise also happens periodically during suspension flex on the rear. I just redid the rear brakes - new drums, new shows, new parking brake cable. I also replaced the rear shackles/pins/bushings. I need to put on shop clothes and crawl under there to poke and prod, but I don’t think it’s a dangerous noise.

Otherwise truck did great. Fully loaded we cruised clear across the state, up and over lots of passes and the Continental Divide, on a single tank of gas doing 65 most of the way. Couple times I dropped to third gear and chugged at 40-45mph once we got towards the tops of passes and ran out of steam. The new motor puts in the work though - it’s lots better than the tired old one.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Went wheeling with the some Rising Sun folks last weekend.

(photo credit for above: Wild FJ on the RS forum)

Crossed some water and took some new bites out of the sliders. Second trail we’ve been on this summer where 35s would have been nice.

I think I’ll change all the fluids and build some storage drawers for the back and call it good for SAS. Everything feels good. Brakes and parking brake feel 100%. Motor feels good. No change in the ever present exhaust leak. Couple of small oddball noises but they don’t seem ominous. I think l we’re ready.

 

[timexlost]

View attachment 4179889

Which sliders are these?

 

[CruiserTrash]

Which sliders are these?

Trail Tailor

 

[CruiserTrash]

Finally did a thing. I’m sick of taking 5-6 plastic bins on camping trips. The dog rides in the back so a lot of bins end up on the roof rack. That’s fine, but it felt like a really inefficient way of carrying things: we use all the floor space of the cargo area but use none of the height. Now we can essentially use the floor area twice.

Obviously the drawers are not in yet, that will happen later today. They were glued up yesterday, including fronts made out of elm. I bought the center section from FB MP. A guy built it himself for a 4Runner and aside from being kind of basic it’s pretty well built and relatively lightweight since he used 1/2” ply. Most of the real woodworking for the additions is happening care of a friend. I was an ok woodworker but don’t have any tools anymore - she’s much more skilled than I ever was and has all the tools.

I added four d-ring tie down points to the floor pan with rivnuts (don’t drill into the fuel tank!), and four turnbuckles hold the platform to the truck. We added the foldable wings, which have removable supports/dividers underneath. Pop the dividers out, fold the wings, and the whole thing slides out the back.

Drawers glued up. These are about 36” deep and will go on 28” drawer slides. 10” will remain inside the main platform which doesn’t make anything too hard to reach.

Elm fronts (with wood imperfections for character” glued up. We later planed the surfaces and cut to size. Some clear coat will make the grain pop.

My goals were:
-try to keep weight down
-keep enough headroom for the dog
-have at least one drawer that fits our Coleman stove
-storage for fluids, tools, and recovery gear
-storage for camp kitchen supplies and other camping gear
-be able to have passengers use the rear seat with the platform in place
-fridge was not a concern since we put that right behind the front seat - gotta be able to reach La Croix fizzy waters while driving!

so far this checks all the boxes. I’m undecided on a full sleeping platform and what that would look like. Maybe that happens down the road or maybe not. For now this will work really well for our SAS trip.

Open to other tips, tricks, and suggestions from people who’ve gone down this road!

 

[CruiserTrash]

Update #2:

Starting last Wednesday morning, the truck began dieseling at shutdown. It now happens every time - it’s like a switch got flipped.

What I’ve checked, all check out good:
-timing
-vacuum
-carb idle tune
-fuel cut solenoid
-used up my regular ethanol fuel and filled up with ethanol free

I also checked the evap system. I found a check valve by the vapor separator was bad so I got a cheap Napa valve, as well as all new hoses while I was in there.

Old check valve shown, new valve box with part number.

The good news is that my fuel tank no longer does the “whoosh” when I open the cap! I previously replaced the evap canister so the check valve was the missing piece. Bad news is that I’m still dieseling every time.

At this point I’m grasping at straws straws. I put seafoam in the fuel tank at double dosage and did the seafoam air intake cleaner too. The dieseling improved but didn’t go away, which leads me to think there’s unburnt fuel or maybe some kind of deposits building on the valves. The rebuilt motor has 14k on it, so I don’t know why there would be excessive deposits.

Unburnt fuel is a clue though. I have the issue that a few others have where the float bowl evaporates and the fuel condenses in the intake right after shutting down. I’ve had that with two motors and two carbs now. About 15-30 minutes after shutdown the float bowl is almost empty and there’s a puddle of fuel laying in the intake. I’m hoping my changes with the vapor collector stop whatever adverse pressure building situation was happening, because I think that may be the cause.

Anyway, I’m open to ideas on this too. I’m really at a dead end. Stalling the truck to stop it is not good for the motor.

 

[toy_tek]

Plug temperature range correct?
Is your AC on when this happens… and same result when it isn’t? (Idle related?)
Try higher octane fuel?

 

[70 FJ40]

How did you determine the check valve was bad?

 

[ryaneddy16]

Update #2:

Starting last Wednesday morning, the truck began dieseling at shutdown. It now happens every time - it’s like a switch got flipped.

What I’ve checked, all check out good:
-timing
-vacuum
-carb idle tune
-fuel cut solenoid
-used up my regular ethanol fuel and filled up with ethanol free

I also checked the evap system. I found a check valve by the vapor separator was bad so I got a cheap Napa valve, as well as all new hoses while I was in there.

View attachment 4184238
View attachment 4184239

Old check valve shown, new valve box with part number.
View attachment 4184240

The good news is that my fuel tank no longer does the “whoosh” when I open the cap! I previously replaced the evap canister so the check valve was the missing piece. Bad news is that I’m still dieseling every time.

At this point I’m grasping at straws straws. I put seafoam in the fuel tank at double dosage and did the seafoam air intake cleaner too. The dieseling improved but didn’t go away, which leads me to think there’s unburnt fuel or maybe some kind of deposits building on the valves. The rebuilt motor has 14k on it, so I don’t know why there would be excessive deposits.

Unburnt fuel is a clue though. I have the issue that a few others have where the float bowl evaporates and the fuel condenses in the intake right after shutting down. I’ve had that with two motors and two carbs now. About 15-30 minutes after shutdown the float bowl is almost empty and there’s a puddle of fuel laying in the intake. I’m hoping my changes with the vapor collector stop whatever adverse pressure building situation was happening, because I think that may be the cause.

Anyway, I’m open to ideas on this too. I’m really at a dead end. Stalling the truck to stop it is not good for the motor.

Whats your idle set at? Is your throttle blade not closing all the way?