Builds Trash truck .... a diary and build thread (3 Viewers)
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There’s nothing wrong with using the same springs if the open and closed pressures are good.
Mine were at 280k and done for.
Mine were at 280k and done for.
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- #63
The shop working in the head doesn't have the equipment for that but they gave me the number of a place that does. Definitely getting them planed together and the washer surfaces matched. Heat riser will be removed and the holes for it tapped and fitted with plugs. Heat riser block off plate in place too. Probably new rings & springs for the cylinder #1 & 6 arms. Everything. I'm so sick of exhaust leaks and the manifold hardware is relatively cheap, so no chances taken here.
I'm glad you are sharing this. I don't remember if I said before, but I'm going to be pulling my head for a valve job one of these weeks.
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- #65
What prompted that? Age? Poor performance? Keep us updated.
I have a flicker on the vacuum gauge and puffs of blue smoke while shifting gears. It runs great other than that. 121500 miles, just broke in..
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- #67
I was raised without any automotive repair or diagnosis knowledge beyond "know where the closest Jiffy Lube is so you can get the oil changed" so at 38 years old I'm still catching up and building my mental diagnosis encyclopedia....
Wouldn't puffs of blue smoke be rings allowing too much oil into the combustion chamber? Vacuum gauge dips make sense if the exhaust valves are so worn that it's allowing the intake to essentially be open to atmosphere - like a short circuit through the valves. Could you explain more? I will file the info away in my brain for future use.
My best guess is one or two burned exhaust valves because PO didn't do periodic valve lash adjustments.
The blue smoke is from oil seeping past worn valve guide seals. I believe the truck was parked for a few years allowing them to dry out.
It is possible that the head gasket is slightly blown between two cylinders as these two have the lowest compression. I lost my data on the numbers. I'm in complete denial that I may have excessively worn rings based on the low mileage and the oil and top end look clean. It runs strong (for 2F) and idles fine but it's best to keep up one these. It's also time for a new oil pan gasket. It leaks/burns about a quart every 5500 miles.
The blue smoke is from oil seeping past worn valve guide seals. I believe the truck was parked for a few years allowing them to dry out.
It is possible that the head gasket is slightly blown between two cylinders as these two have the lowest compression. I lost my data on the numbers. I'm in complete denial that I may have excessively worn rings based on the low mileage and the oil and top end look clean. It runs strong (for 2F) and idles fine but it's best to keep up one these. It's also time for a new oil pan gasket. It leaks/burns about a quart every 5500 miles.
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- #69
1 quart of oil every 5500 miles??
I'm at like a quart a week. Mostly it leaks from the rear main seal .... and the front main .... and the oil pan gasket .... and the side cover gasket. But I haven't ruled out consumption past the rings yet haha.
After the head work I'm doing at least the side cover and oil pan gaskets. Maybe one day the front seal. Rear seal will happen if/when I do something about the leaking transmission/t-case. Let's slow down and not get ahead of ourselves, ya know.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
Maybe consider doing the pan gasket while the head is off. It would give you an opportunity to push a piston out, and see how those rings look. Might head off, pulling the head again. As the British say, “I’m gonna have a think” 
Dekeman
SILVER Star
Oil pan gasket is a royal pain but so worth it.
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- #72
Great point, but like I said this is a daily driver and I need to do the work over a long weekend. It's a matter of balancing "how far should I take this project" with "I have to drive to work on Monday".Maybe consider doing the pan gasket while the head is off. It would give you an opportunity to push a piston out, and see how those rings look. Might head off, pulling the head again. As the British say, “I’m gonna have a think”
Here was my other, more ambitious plan:
Do all the head and manifold work I listed, but also drop the oil pan and inspect the lower end, pull the pistons, use one of those drill-mounted hones to hatch the cylinder walls, drop back in re-ringed pistons, button it all back up with a new oil pan gasket.
The internet is incredibly divided on the drill-mounted hone process. Mostly it sounds easy to f**k it up. I also think doing all that would add a whole day, if not two. Now I'm at 4-5 days if everything goes smoothly, which it NEVER does. Meanwhile I need to get to work and take the kids to school and all that.
Don’t pull a piston out.
Use the ridge at the top of the bore as an indicator (if any)
My engine at 280k had minimal wear and a slight ridge.
Use the ridge at the top of the bore as an indicator (if any)
My engine at 280k had minimal wear and a slight ridge.
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- #74
Going back to this comment @MoaByte .... When you say tarp, you mean that you have a waxed canvas tarp to keep stuff on the roof rack dry? I've been thinking about making my own awning out of a Keder rail and waxed canvas. This is where I got the Keder rail idea:I digging the waxed canvas winch cover. It would tie in nicely with the waxed canvas tarp I use on the roof rack. Nylon just doesn't hold up. Great idea
Awning
But considering the amount of labor that would require, I'm also pondering this for $180. They even use a 60 for the website photo. I can't find any reviews on it though, which is worrisome. It also doesn't permanently mount - you store it in a bag, and then velcro it to the roof rack when you want to use it. I'm kind of ok NOT having an awning permanently mounted though. Some might not like that though.
Springbar Autofly
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- #75
That Springbar awning, since it's essentially just a piece of canvas, can be used as a rough shelter too. We currently have a Marmot 3-person synthetic tent but I keep giving consideration to either a more rough shelter or a hot tent setup by Luxe or Seek Outside (which would still be nice in the summer, just leave the stove at home). Those seem more flexible for various scenarios than the Marmot ... but the Marmot has done ok over the years - great in the wind and rain, if a bit small. My son will be doing more backpacking with scouts, and will be doing Philmont in summer 2023 so the Marmot could become his tent.
Yes, I use the tarp to keep camping gear, firewood, etc dry by rigging the rack with the tarp and cam straps. My overland gear overlaps with my river raft gear so it's easy to rig from LC to Raft or vise versa.
I have the previous version of the Springbar. It's not waxed canvas, but a heavyweight nylon. As bad as I thought I needed it, I rarely use it. When I do use it, I'm glad I have it. I also have their 10x10 tent. It's older than the 60 and still in great shape. I wish I had just bought it first as all the nylon tents I've bought have failed from UV.
I have the previous version of the Springbar. It's not waxed canvas, but a heavyweight nylon. As bad as I thought I needed it, I rarely use it. When I do use it, I'm glad I have it. I also have their 10x10 tent. It's older than the 60 and still in great shape. I wish I had just bought it first as all the nylon tents I've bought have failed from UV.
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- #77
So you have the Autofly or something like it from Springbar? They currently have the both heavy nylon and a waxed canvas versions. Good info on the tent, too.
I decided to wait on the RT tent. Glad I did as many of the places I camp, they either won't fit or it's too windy. I either sleep in the back on a futon mattress or pull it out and sleep under the stars. I avoid campgrounds. But if you got a 60, might as well find a nice spot without neighbors.
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- #80
Some forward progress.....
My rear wiper works for the first time since owning the truck! All of the wires in the rear hatch harness were broken except the defroster 12V, which was about halfway torn. For what it's worth, if you remove the rubber elbow protecting the harness between the body and hatch (at the roofline), and pull the wires carefully out from the body, there are connectors hiding so you can unclip those and have an easier time working. Lucky for me, my headliner is falling off in that area so I could reach up and find them that way. I spliced in all new wires, wrapped them thoroughly, fed them back through the rubber elbow thing, and then spliced into the connector pigtails.
I also used some blue masking tape and a conductive paint pen to repair some damaged defroster lines. It's snowing today so I'm hoping to test if that helped the situation.
Still not getting the cargo dome light coming on with the rear hatch, but I know there are threads detailing the process of cleaning out the switch that's behind the lock mechanism. I'm hoping it's a dirty switch.
...BUT there was one step back too. One time - just one single time - when I turned on the rear wiper, the defrost switch indicator light came on and the defrost switch backlight went off. No wiper action either. The next time I hit the rear wiper it worked as normal. Regarding the wiring in the back, I cut out any that had compromised insulation and did heat shrink splices to brand new wires, so there shouldn't be any cross-contact. Unless it's one of the few spots I haven't replaced, like through the D-Pillar for example, or from where the wires enter the rear hatch to their final destinations. There's maybe 3' of original wire left in the back of the truck at this point. A real head scratcher.....
My rear wiper works for the first time since owning the truck! All of the wires in the rear hatch harness were broken except the defroster 12V, which was about halfway torn. For what it's worth, if you remove the rubber elbow protecting the harness between the body and hatch (at the roofline), and pull the wires carefully out from the body, there are connectors hiding so you can unclip those and have an easier time working. Lucky for me, my headliner is falling off in that area so I could reach up and find them that way. I spliced in all new wires, wrapped them thoroughly, fed them back through the rubber elbow thing, and then spliced into the connector pigtails.
I also used some blue masking tape and a conductive paint pen to repair some damaged defroster lines. It's snowing today so I'm hoping to test if that helped the situation.
Still not getting the cargo dome light coming on with the rear hatch, but I know there are threads detailing the process of cleaning out the switch that's behind the lock mechanism. I'm hoping it's a dirty switch.
...BUT there was one step back too. One time - just one single time - when I turned on the rear wiper, the defrost switch indicator light came on and the defrost switch backlight went off. No wiper action either. The next time I hit the rear wiper it worked as normal. Regarding the wiring in the back, I cut out any that had compromised insulation and did heat shrink splices to brand new wires, so there shouldn't be any cross-contact. Unless it's one of the few spots I haven't replaced, like through the D-Pillar for example, or from where the wires enter the rear hatch to their final destinations. There's maybe 3' of original wire left in the back of the truck at this point. A real head scratcher.....
