transfer case breather

[CanuckMariner]

I want to relocate my breather from the R151 transfer case and T it into the breather coming from the rear diff to the engine bay. I can feel it on top of the transfer case but not sure how to get it off and what to replace it with (nipple) to push on a rubber tube. Any ideas?

Also, there seems to be a breather on the trani as well, by the stick shift. Anyone relocated that breather and how did you do it?

Diagrams attached.

 

[KLF]

I've done a few on the split case in a 60/62 series, I assume it is similar. The breathers are a press-fit, you can yank them out and tap the hole for a hose barb.

 

[CanuckMariner]

I've done a few on the split case in a 60/62 series, I assume it is similar. The breathers are a press-fit, you can yank them out and tap the hole for a hose barb.

That's a pretty tight fit to get a tap on it as well as removing the press-fit breather. Suspect this can only be done when the transfer case is removed? hence will have to let it go until there is more substantial reason to remove the transfer case or transmission. Thanks for the info though, much appreciated!

 

[KLF]

Oh, yeah for some reason I was thinking you have it out. You can gain quite a bit of room by removing the crossmember and letting the thing droop. Still, it's gonna be a pain to get to.

 

[crushers]

you can pop the floating cap off and clamp a hose over the barb as well.
<temp till you drop the t/case>

 

[CanuckMariner]

Thanks all for the suggestions/comments.

 

[BDA130]

you can pop the floating cap off and clamp a hose over the barb as well.
<temp till you drop the t/case>

I have my trans dropped at the moment to do the rear main and clutch, but the case is still together. I'm getting the classic oil transfer from transfer to transmission. If I pop the floating cap on the breather, should I be able to "see into" the transfer case? How can I tell if this breather is clogged by looking at it? I have an OEM seal for the shaft between the transfer/trans, but it's not the upgraded double seal. Even if it takes me an extra day with trans down, should I just split the case, replace that seal, and tap a new breather fitting? I'm assuming if I take the case apart to get to that seal, I'll be able to see the breather from the inside out and thus catch all the shavings from tapping? I'm reluctant to do this by myself as the service manual has been pretty good for the trans drop/clutch, but the exploded diagram and instructions leaves me wanting regarding splitting the case and replacing that seal. This would be the most in depth "surgery" I've done and getting into the case scares me a little. Any advice would be awesome, thanks!


To sum up my babbles, is replacing this seal as easy as removing the bolts from the transfer/trans and boom, that seal will be visible? Or will there be some disassembly involved. If I do split the case, will the breather then be visible?


It is the seal pictured in the upper left hand corner of this diagram correct?

 

[AlbertoSD]

The breather should be visible even without taking anything apart. The breather is located on the front half of the transfer case, on the upper part of it (if I remember correctly).

When you remove the bolts that join the back and front half of the TCase, you then will be able to remove the back half housing of the transfer case. Most gears normally stay in place when you remove the back half. To replace the Transmission/TCase seal, however, you will need to remove the input gear to the TCase, the solid spacer, the PTO gear (if equipped with one), a stalked nut, and a bearing.

The thread below has good photos of what you will be expecting to see (and do) to separate and re-assemble your transfer case:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/transfer-assembly-with-pictures.487813/

You can see a photo of the seal that normally leads to oil migration from Transmission to TCase or TCase to Transmission in post #2 of the link above.

 

[SteveH]

As 'crushers' said (I'm adding a bit):

Pry off the floating steel cap, slide on 3/8" fuel line, install a hose clamp right at the 'fat spot' (where the fuel line has expanded over the factory vent stub), and you're done. No need to screw in a barbed fitting.

The plugging of the vent is due to gear oil gluing the rubber disk to the top of the vent. You will toss these parts. You can always blow into the hose you have attached with your mouth, and if you feel the xfer case/xmission slightly pressurize and then 'blow back at you', then you know the vent is clear and open to the atmosphere. Enjoy the rank 90wt oil smell in the blow back air while you're there - it increases virility.

 

[BDA130]

As 'crushers' said (I'm adding a bit):

Pry off the floating steel cap, slide on 3/8" fuel line, install a hose clamp right at the 'fat spot' (where the fuel line has expanded over the factory vent stub), and you're done. No need to screw in a barbed fitting.

The plugging of the vent is due to gear oil gluing the rubber disk to the top of the vent. You will toss these parts. You can always blow into the hose you have attached with your mouth, and if you feel the xfer case/xmission slightly pressurize and then 'blow back at you', then you know the vent is clear and open to the atmosphere. Enjoy the rank 90wt oil smell in the blow back air while you're there - it increases virility.

Glad I saw this and I felt embarrassed about my solution today ha, not as graceful as tapping a new fitting. I did the same thing today but used wiper fluid hose, a small seal of Silicon and a zip tie. I gave it a good pull and it was solid (giggity).