Toyota 4 Cylinder TURBO diesel Advice

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FourBy4Toy said:
As I was at Slee today, I was talking with Ben about my 3L, they dont have a lot of experience with diesel toys, but Ben used to have a diesel 80 series, we got to chatting about it, and he told me something that made a lot of sense!, he said the reason his diesel had 2 batteries was that the starter on his diesel was 24V, but the rest of the electrical system was 12V, is that true?, if that is so, that would explain why my BRAND NEW 1000cca interstate battery that I bought would BARELY even turn my 3L engine over, I ended up having to get a battery charger that had a starter assist, and crank up the amps on that through the new battery, then it would turn over fast enough to start the engine..

Is this true?, are the 3L starters 24V units?, this sounds like it could get a little confusing when it comes to wiring time!, if the alternator is 12V, and the batteries are in series to make them 24V, will the alternator still charge them?, or is the 3L alternator(the one with the built in vacuum pump) a 24V unit??

Anybody?
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Most 24v run two 12v batteries and they have a 24v starter,alternator,glow system and fuel cut solenoid.
Ive heard about hybrid systems that start on 24v and switch to 12v for running.

I would have thought the Hilux 3L to be 12v but they are used in the smaller Dyna trucks which are often 24v
The batteries need to drained and recharged equally or they will not start easy.
Owners pluggung 12v radio/cd players into a single battery causes a lot of problems on here;)

12v engine to 12v vehcile is definately an easier swap.

The alternator and starter usually have the voltage written/stamped on them somewhere.
 
And even if you do have a 24V starter, you can get a 12V reman starter from Toyota here. 28100-54380-84 is what the box on mine said. Just over $300, but a remanufactured starter for a 2LT-E or 3L (it's the 2.0Kv version, couldn't find the 2.7 reman).

The 2LII was used in a lot of industrial/aviation equipment here (next time you're at the airport--notice all the Toyota tugs hauling baggage carts around). A lot of those use the 2LII, and thus would have some good 12V parts for you there.

That turbo is sexy! What kind of turbo is it? Did Christo just have it sitting on his shelf?

Dan
 
DanS HJ-45 said:
And even if you do have a 24V starter, you can get a 12V reman starter from Toyota here. 28100-54380-84 is what the box on mine said. Just over $300, but a remanufactured starter for a 2LT-E or 3L (it's the 2.0Kv version, couldn't find the 2.7 reman).

The 2LII was used in a lot of industrial/aviation equipment here (next time you're at the airport--notice all the Toyota tugs hauling baggage carts around). A lot of those use the 2LII, and thus would have some good 12V parts for you there.

That turbo is sexy! What kind of turbo is it? Did Christo just have it sitting on his shelf?

Dan
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LOL that is the number stamped on my starter!(28100-54380), so I guess it IS a 12V starter, I wonder why when I try to start it, it acts like will barely turn over until I add the high amp starter assist with the battey charger?, maybe I got a bad starter? the battery is brand new(interstate 1000 cca unit), I also had 2 gauge wire to it with a good ground to the block?? Or is it a possibility that this 3L just requires the power to 2 batteries to start...even in warm weather?

The turbo it a DTS from Australia,
http://www.4x4store.com.au/DTS-Turb...-Hilux-3L-2.8L-Diesel-1988-1997-pr-18053.html

yeah Christo had it on his shelf:) $2500 plus ship from Australia, they sold me this one for $1000.00 out the door.
 
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The JDM HDJ81's I've seen thus far in Canada are 24V start, and 12V run. The charging system is 12V. There is a funky relay which connects the batteries to the starting system in series when starting.

Two batteries does not necessarily mean it's 24V system or starting system. Cdn spec BJ60's all came with two batteries in parallel. The Cdn spec HJ60 came with two batteries as well (same location), but were wired in series.

While 24V is more efficient, 12V will start a diesel just fine. Stone is starting his 12HT-FJ80 conversion with one battery @ 12V. In fact when we turned it over to show oil pressure, and also prelube the turbo for inital run the 12V starter had no problems at all.

Two batteries in parallel will double the amperage, if needed for cold weather starts. If you want to run two batteries, perhaps consider an isolator that manages the 2nd battery, and provides push button connection if you need the 2nd. Redarc makes a nice one. Stone has just installed one into his 12HT-FJ80.

24V is a NATO cold weather spec, like really cold. Where you would notice the greater effiencey of the 24V system. Whatever temp that might be.

Did you hook the starter directly up to the battery? The starter will need a direct hookup to turn the diesel adequately.
 
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i have yet to come across a Land Cruiser diesel that did not start just as easy with a 12V starter as a 24V starter...

the idea that 24V accessories last longer than 12V is a falacy. the idea that 24V starts easier is a falacy. nice way to make 2X times the money for the same result.

in my NSHO.
 
Greg_B said:
Did you hook the starter directly up to the battery? The starter will need a direct hookup to turn the diesel adequately.
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yes was hooked directly to the battery, I cut 2 gauge jumper cables, and crimped on big copper eyelets @ each end, ran the + on the battery to the stud on the starter directly, ran the - on the battery to a bolt on the block(that was ground clean), then ran a wire from the starter solenoid to the + on the battery arc'ed it, and it acted like my battery had all the cells bad on it, I actually thought I got a bad battery, took it back, they tested it, and it was perfect.

However doing the same as above with the "start assist" on the battery charger, the engine turned over like it should... I am confused, I just ordered a reman starter(Toyota reman'ed) from American Toyota in NM from CruiserDan, it is on the way, the only thing I can think is that I have a bunk starter. Surprisingly the reman starter was only $150. I figure that was cheap enough to eliminate a problem, if all else fails, I have a spare on the shelf.
 
Longevity might be a myth, but they are more efficient. More votage = less ampereage used. Like running HID lights and the like on 220 or 440V instead of 110. Load it up with lights and the alt. doesn't have to work as hard, the '74 has 600W of lights on it, and the alt. doesn't bat an eye. Indeed, i have both 12 and 24V diesels, and the only reaon the 24V starts easier it that it's direct injection. V=IR

oh, x2 on direct from battery to starter connection, fattest guage wire you can find (within reason).

you know that you can get a starter bench-tested, right?
 
I guess I never went with bench testing for concern of the tester saying,,,,,this starter wasnt designed for the US, so we dont want to mess with it.. O well, I guess that with the reman unit on the way, if has the same symptoms, then it is not my starter, it it works, then it was...
 
should be the same as a 1L or 2L starter. oh, and make sure you ground the starter housing, right on the support strut on the starter. also make sure you have a good solid ground from battery to block to frame to body. from what i can tell, in my system, both + on each battery go to the main lug on the starter, while one batt is gronded to the block, frame, and body. the other batt is grounded to the starter housing, as mentioned above. check out the lower "LN" diagram: ToyoDIY.com

btw, if you have ditched the A/C or P/S and such, the alternator still NEEDS two belts, or it will never put out enough charge.
 
crushers said:
i have yet to come across a Land Cruiser diesel that did not start just as easy with a 12V starter as a 24V starter...

the idea that 24V accessories last longer than 12V is a falacy. the idea that 24V starts easier is a falacy. nice way to make 2X times the money for the same result.

in my NSHO.
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I believe Toyota have deleted the 24v option from the Landcruiser range so maybe 24v was not the great advantage it was supposed to be
 
roscoFJ73 said:
I believe Toyota have deleted the 24v option from the Landcruiser range so maybe 24v was not the great advantage it was supposed to be
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Thats correct , 12 or 24 ,doesnt really matter. Nato used to have 24v radios and accessories. That is why the CUCV , 5 quarter ton Chev with the 6.2 diesel were 24v the Canadians used them as CPs command post. The voltage requirements for the Radios for the signalmen are or were24volts
 
Installed, turbo'd, and running. Wastegate is set to 10psi, perfect. EGT gets no higher than 950°F (post-turbo) on 6% grade @ 65mph. Does run a tad on the hot side when i push it, like 205°F. I am running a nearly new three-core, plus the return line from the turbo goes through its' own auxiliary rad. moderate driving it runs around 185 - 195°F, EGT @ 400 - 600°F. seems a tad hot, but the "imminent overheat zone" (you know, about 5/8 on the stock dial, where normal is usually just below half) seems to start at about 220°F. The digital sender is located in the upper hose, could this make any difference on the reading?
all in all it runs pretty nicely.
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Looks good, I am DYING to get my buggy going, it is going to a Formula Toy using my stock 85 4runner chassis, and a Hendrix Motorsports cage, it will be identical to Marlin Crawlers Ftoy:
3ne3k73m2ZZZZZZZZZ971d03c0e2ea4791d9a.webp
 
FourBy4Toy said:
Looks good, I am DYING to get my buggy going, it is going to a Formula Toy using my stock 85 4runner chassis, and a Hendrix Motorsports cage, it will be identical to Marlin Crawlers Ftoy:
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Not identical: better. Diesel=better. The end.

I always wondered why nobody build an FToy with a diesel. Now I get to see one! Awesome!

Dan
 
I think you will be happy. Mine will bust loose around corners if I walk on it, and if it's empty. Now, i'm just thinking about a boost compensator. I still have my 2LT engine with rebuilt injectors and IP (with boost compensator), figured maybe swap IPs and injectors, turn the fuel up a hair for the larger displacement and be good to go. I'm finding with no compensator the midrange of the RPMs is pretty nice, but the higher end is a bit flat, feels like a lack of fuel.
 
FourBy4Toy said:
A Couple Teaser photos! Along with the DTS turbo installed.
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Sexy!

Any plans for the air filter? Just going to use a cone, or something awesome like a Donaldson?

Dan
 
DanS HJ-45 said:
Sexy!

Any plans for the air filter? Just going to use a cone, or something awesome like a Donaldson?

Dan
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with my dwindeling budget, I think a K&N cone to start with:)
 
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