Toyota 4 Cylinder TURBO diesel Advice

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Why a second duty tank? It shouldn't mtter what grade you're sitting at, the IP should be able to draw the fuel, if that's what you're thinking of. If that's the case, I wouldn't bother with the extra fuel tank. As far as the extra pressure goes, all I can say is the the pump wasn't designed to work under pressure, but I don't know whether it will cause any damage. Either that, or just vent the tank.
 
run a feeder pump close to the tank...

i have done this on a few trucks now and the results are noticable.
 
Chang-kuao-lo said:
Why a second duty tank? It shouldn't mtter what grade you're sitting at, the IP should be able to draw the fuel, if that's what you're thinking of. If that's the case, I wouldn't bother with the extra fuel tank. As far as the extra pressure goes, all I can say is the the pump wasn't designed to work under pressure, but I don't know whether it will cause any damage. Either that, or just vent the tank.
Click to expand...



Well the fuel cell I have only has one outlet(on the back at the bottom), the other is for a return line, that will be great for uphill inclines, but with downhill, or off-camber areas, all the fuel will be at the opposite of the tank, and will starve the engine for fuel...attached is a photo
547-252-016-01.webp
 
crushers said:
run a feeder pump close to the tank...

i have done this on a few trucks now and the results are noticable.
Click to expand...

Can you elaborate on that a little? like a lift pump?
 
yah, i have found that the injection pumps (espec the rotory) seem to enjoy the strain release by the small elec pump providing fuel under pressure from the tank.
 
starts easier
runs smoother
seems quieter
better acceleration
idles smoother

<results may varry depending on installer, make of pump etc>
 
crushers said:
starts easier
runs smoother
seems quieter
better acceleration
idles smoother

<results may varry depending on installer, make of pump etc>
Click to expand...

How will it help?:confused:
Are you saying they are constantly starved of fuel?
If the feed pump inside the inj pump sucks 3-4 times as much fuel as the engine can use (approx 45 litres an hour at 2000 rpm according to the FSM) and then recycles what is not used back to the tank,how can an extra pump help?

To be short of fuel,the engine would have to be consuming fuel at the rate of 30-40 litres an hour which is would be pushing enormous EGTs

Starts easier? My 1HZs both start within 2 seconds or less of hitting the starter.
If they dont start like that ,then there are numerous other places you should be looking
(cold weather starts acknowledged as taking longer).
For instance,a well sealed fuel system should leave the injection pump FULL of fuel for the next start.
How much more fuel can you push into a full fuel pump??
 
i am guess because the factory pump pulls and pushes and this allows the pump to just push the fuel.

i am just saying it works, i have no idea how.

as for starting, in the cold winters it just seems to be the case. i am not saying this is the latest greatest fad/add on. i am just saying is seems to work.
 
The pusher pump of choice in our shop is a low pressure Walbro. Some suggest regulating the fuel down to a few lbs before the injection pump< but from the mailing list link in one of the threads below there is no mention of this.

The Bosch Rotory VE is used in many applications. A number of those applications used pusher pumps. Toyota, for some reason, does not. They did step up the fuel feed line size.

Suggested 12V is FRB-5: Auto Performance Engineering - Walbro fuel pumps and more

Suggested 24V is FRB-2: Auto Performance Engineering - Walbro fuel pumps and more

Some prior discussion on this:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/32275-pusher-fuel-pump-walbro.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/198228-walbro-fuel-pump.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/258133-hdj81-no-fuel-when-cold.html

hth's

gb
 
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Chang-kuao-lo said:
I'll tell ya what. I do have an extra 2LTE manifold, let's say $100 + shipping? PM if interested.
Click to expand...


Still got that manifold?, I am interested, do you ONLY have the manifold? do you have the dump manifold off of the turbo?

What all do you have from this photo?
turbo1.webp
 
Greg_B said:
The pusher pump of choice in our shop is a low pressure Walbro. Some suggest regulating the fuel down to a few lbs before the injection pump< but from the mailing list link in one of the threads below there is no mention of this.

The Bosch Rotory VE is used in many applications. A number of those applications used pusher pumps. Toyota, for some reason, does not. They did step up the fuel feed line size.

Suggested 12V is FRB-5: Auto Performance Engineering - Walbro fuel pumps and more

Suggested 24V is FRB-2: Auto Performance Engineering - Walbro fuel pumps and more

Some prior discussion on this:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/32275-pusher-fuel-pump-walbro.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/198228-walbro-fuel-pump.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/258133-hdj81-no-fuel-when-cold.html

hth's

gb
Click to expand...

thanks!

:beer:
 
Chang-kuao-lo said:
Will PM you on the morrow. $100 + ship (have to check, shouldn't be too steep though).
Click to expand...

Hey man, it is one of those timing things I guess!, I was at slee offroad today to pick up some parts, and was talking to Ben, and he turned me on to a Aussie made turbo "kit" for the 3L engine, it was never installed, and gave me a screaming deal on it, so I snagged the whole kit, so unfortunately I guess I wont be needing the manifold...sorry

Here are a couple photos of the kit I got:
DSC01902.webp
DSC01903.webp
 
As I was at Slee today, I was talking with Ben about my 3L, they dont have a lot of experience with diesel toys, but Ben used to have a diesel 80 series, we got to chatting about it, and he told me something that made a lot of sense!, he said the reason his diesel had 2 batteries was that the starter on his diesel was 24V, but the rest of the electrical system was 12V, is that true?, if that is so, that would explain why my BRAND NEW 1000cca interstate battery that I bought would BARELY even turn my 3L engine over, I ended up having to get a battery charger that had a starter assist, and crank up the amps on that through the new battery, then it would turn over fast enough to start the engine..

Is this true?, are the 3L starters 24V units?, this sounds like it could get a little confusing when it comes to wiring time!, if the alternator is 12V, and the batteries are in series to make them 24V, will the alternator still charge them?, or is the 3L alternator(the one with the built in vacuum pump) a 24V unit??

Anybody?
 
That may be the case. Some are 24V start-12V run. It should tell you on the starter label. My unit has 2 batts, but I'm not sure whether it's a 24V starter or not.

Great score on the kit, looks extra nice.
 
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