Riley, great stuff!!
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My UZJ40 Build - 2UZ iForce V8 and a750f 5spd auto (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #62
BUILD POST EIGHT
Throughout this build, I had been collecting many parts. Here are a few pictures of some of the collections and a short explanation of them.
First of all, lights. I LOVE nice lighting on vehicle. Every light on my 40 is LED, including the headlights.
Pictured below:
1 40" Rigid LED combo light bar
2 Rigid Dually D2 driving lights
2 Rigid Dually diffused back up lights
2 JW Speaker LED headlights
2 New OEM front signals/park lights with LED bulbs
2 New OEM rear lights (later replaced by LED Narva units from Australia)
Yes, I spent almost as much on lighting as I originally purchased the vehicle for. Yes, that's absolutely crazy.
Next up; axles.
Pictured below:
Front and rear ARB air lockers
Maximum performance ARB air compressor
Mark's Off Road part time spool for 100 series transfer case
COMPLETE kit of new bearings and seals for the 40 series axles, front and rear (thanks Curt at Cruiser Outfitters!)
Body coatings.
Pictured below:
5 gallons of Lizard Skin sound deadening material
5 gallons of Lizard Skin ceramic heat insulation
2 Upol Raptorliner kits (one interior and one under the tub)
Suspension! Hours and hours of research led me to OME 2.5" lift springs with Bilstein shocks. MAF extended shackles with greasable pins.
Before installing the Bilstein 5100's, I decided I wanted to try the 5165's w/remote reservoirs-
Converting to 4 wheel discs and all new brake lines, I had to make some new soft lines. Braided steel for all 6. You'll notice the two with the banjo fittings for the GM calipers
EVERY piece of OEM weatherstripping for my year. All of it was purchased from Ben and Sam Stewart, whom I'd highly recommend for any of your Toyota parts! From all the horror stories I heard about aftermarket products, I knew I had to buck up and spend the cash on good stuff.
Plugs for electrical work. There are ZERO FJ40 plugs on my vehicle still. Everything has been converted to Delphi plugs. The kit pictured below is a life saver and comes with everything needed to do 2 or 3 vehicles. It was spendy, but will be worth it when I need to fix things down the road.
Here's an example of how I'm going about converting the wiring:
OEM-
Mine- Sand blasted side marker light fixture, used braided sheathing to protect wires, then Delphi plug on the end
JIS Hardware kit from JISHARDWARE.com. I actually purchased two, because at time time I needed one, he was low on supply and wasn't positive he'd be able to continue selling them. These kits are awesome, and I'd highly recommend them to anybody doing a restoration!
Anybody that has worked on a 40 knows how many bits and pieces there are. I thought having them semi gloss black would compliment the cement gray color of my vehicle, so I had them professionally blasted and coated. I was extremely happy with the results! They even did my Metal Tech Jackson cage and ConFerr roof rack.
After blasting:
Back home after coating:
Throughout this build, I had been collecting many parts. Here are a few pictures of some of the collections and a short explanation of them.
First of all, lights. I LOVE nice lighting on vehicle. Every light on my 40 is LED, including the headlights.
Pictured below:
1 40" Rigid LED combo light bar
2 Rigid Dually D2 driving lights
2 Rigid Dually diffused back up lights
2 JW Speaker LED headlights
2 New OEM front signals/park lights with LED bulbs
2 New OEM rear lights (later replaced by LED Narva units from Australia)
Yes, I spent almost as much on lighting as I originally purchased the vehicle for. Yes, that's absolutely crazy.
Next up; axles.
Pictured below:
Front and rear ARB air lockers
Maximum performance ARB air compressor
Mark's Off Road part time spool for 100 series transfer case
COMPLETE kit of new bearings and seals for the 40 series axles, front and rear (thanks Curt at Cruiser Outfitters!)
Body coatings.
Pictured below:
5 gallons of Lizard Skin sound deadening material
5 gallons of Lizard Skin ceramic heat insulation
2 Upol Raptorliner kits (one interior and one under the tub)
Suspension! Hours and hours of research led me to OME 2.5" lift springs with Bilstein shocks. MAF extended shackles with greasable pins.
Before installing the Bilstein 5100's, I decided I wanted to try the 5165's w/remote reservoirs-
Converting to 4 wheel discs and all new brake lines, I had to make some new soft lines. Braided steel for all 6. You'll notice the two with the banjo fittings for the GM calipers
EVERY piece of OEM weatherstripping for my year. All of it was purchased from Ben and Sam Stewart, whom I'd highly recommend for any of your Toyota parts! From all the horror stories I heard about aftermarket products, I knew I had to buck up and spend the cash on good stuff.
Plugs for electrical work. There are ZERO FJ40 plugs on my vehicle still. Everything has been converted to Delphi plugs. The kit pictured below is a life saver and comes with everything needed to do 2 or 3 vehicles. It was spendy, but will be worth it when I need to fix things down the road.
Here's an example of how I'm going about converting the wiring:
OEM-
Mine- Sand blasted side marker light fixture, used braided sheathing to protect wires, then Delphi plug on the end
JIS Hardware kit from JISHARDWARE.com. I actually purchased two, because at time time I needed one, he was low on supply and wasn't positive he'd be able to continue selling them. These kits are awesome, and I'd highly recommend them to anybody doing a restoration!
Anybody that has worked on a 40 knows how many bits and pieces there are. I thought having them semi gloss black would compliment the cement gray color of my vehicle, so I had them professionally blasted and coated. I was extremely happy with the results! They even did my Metal Tech Jackson cage and ConFerr roof rack.
After blasting:
Back home after coating:
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That looks like the back of Custom Powder Coating - they do great work!!
- Thread starter
- #64
Quick notes on my ConFerr rack-
First of all, my fiance bought it for me for our 1 yr anniversary. It was off of another guy's 40 down in Tucson (hey Don!). I did have to modify it slightly for our needs.
As we got it:
Test fitting the ARB roof top tent:
Welding on tabs with quick release pins for the cross support bars:
Tabs for gas struts welded on. Now we can store stuff under the tent and 'in' the rack:
Cutting out the front center support to make room for the 40" Rigid light bar... fits perfect!
First of all, my fiance bought it for me for our 1 yr anniversary. It was off of another guy's 40 down in Tucson (hey Don!). I did have to modify it slightly for our needs.
As we got it:
Test fitting the ARB roof top tent:
Welding on tabs with quick release pins for the cross support bars:
Tabs for gas struts welded on. Now we can store stuff under the tent and 'in' the rack:
Cutting out the front center support to make room for the 40" Rigid light bar... fits perfect!
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
The more I see of this thread the less I want to post about mine as it seems so not worthy now... :|
HungryMedic
That doesn't look too hard... What could go wrong?
Subscribed!
If you ever make it back to Louisiana in a few years I'll trade you a flight in an EC for a ride in the 40.
If you ever make it back to Louisiana in a few years I'll trade you a flight in an EC for a ride in the 40.
- Thread starter
- #67
That's ridiculous! Every 40 is different and built for different reasons....
Thanks for the offer! I actually fly EC's here in Vegas. I'd still love to give you a ride though! Thank you for following along
Hey Riley!! Glad to see you finally made a build thread! This is an awesome truck and it's been hard to keep my mouth shut the last couple of years. Great job man! You just made all of MUD totally jealous! 
- Thread starter
- #69
Hey Riley!! Glad to see you finally made a build thread! This is an awesome truck and it's been hard to keep my mouth shut the last couple of years. Great job man! You just made all of MUD totally jealous!
Thanks Sam!
Sam has been a huge help throughout this build. Even though he was across the country, he'd always be available to answer questions and help. Very knowledgeable and friendly person! Cheers!
Riley,
Looking good, I can't wait to see the rest of the build.
Couple of questions, I know that you were one of the guys that picked up the Narva LED tail lights, however they didn't end up fitting. What did you end up using? Looks like you retained the OEM lenses/reflectors.
On the Delphi plug/socket are the wires crimped or soldered? They look like a great option, now that I've seen yours, it'll be something I'll seriously consider when I'm tearing my 42LX down this year.
Dan
Looking good, I can't wait to see the rest of the build.
Couple of questions, I know that you were one of the guys that picked up the Narva LED tail lights, however they didn't end up fitting. What did you end up using? Looks like you retained the OEM lenses/reflectors.
On the Delphi plug/socket are the wires crimped or soldered? They look like a great option, now that I've seen yours, it'll be something I'll seriously consider when I'm tearing my 42LX down this year.
Dan
- Thread starter
- #71
Dan,
You are correct about the Narva lights. I did end up using them. You can see them on this picture-
In the photo I poster earlier, I did not have the Narva lights in my possession yet. After I got the Narvas, I sold the OEM's.
The Delphi Weatherpak kit is awesome. The connections are crimped on, but you can solder them as well if you want. I'd highly recommend doing this kit, but it obviously isn't the greatest for restorations.
- Thread starter
- #72
BUILD POST 9
I needed some comfortable seats for this 40. I knew exactly what I wanted, and my checklist was pretty easy-
Black leather
Easy to remount
Heated (with nice looking switch panel)
Power
Really, the easiest way to find seats for a project vehicle is to walk down every isle and look in every car at a junk yard. Usually the junk yard workers want to know EXACTLY what you want before they let you wander the yard, but if you tell them what you're working on, usually they'll oblige.
I found many seats that were close to working, but so many of them had one thing about them that wouldn't work. I was walking past a 2011 Subaru Legacy and saw these. They hug very well, and a lot of support. The only thing they didn't have was a power passenger seat. Perfect!
Removed (need to be cleaned!):
I did not have a wiring diagram for the Subaru, so it was a little bit of trial and error. Eventually I got it though! I was able to figure out the power/ground, output to each seat, and the illumination wire.
I love this heated seat switch panel from the Subaru, and coincidentally, it looks great with the rest of my switches!
I needed some comfortable seats for this 40. I knew exactly what I wanted, and my checklist was pretty easy-
Black leather
Easy to remount
Heated (with nice looking switch panel)
Power
Really, the easiest way to find seats for a project vehicle is to walk down every isle and look in every car at a junk yard. Usually the junk yard workers want to know EXACTLY what you want before they let you wander the yard, but if you tell them what you're working on, usually they'll oblige.
I found many seats that were close to working, but so many of them had one thing about them that wouldn't work. I was walking past a 2011 Subaru Legacy and saw these. They hug very well, and a lot of support. The only thing they didn't have was a power passenger seat. Perfect!
Removed (need to be cleaned!):
I did not have a wiring diagram for the Subaru, so it was a little bit of trial and error. Eventually I got it though! I was able to figure out the power/ground, output to each seat, and the illumination wire.
I love this heated seat switch panel from the Subaru, and coincidentally, it looks great with the rest of my switches!
- Thread starter
- #73
BUILD POST 10
Time for body work! As I said earlier, I originally wanted to do it, but decided not to. I ended up finding a shop that wanted to take on the job. I saw some of their work and it was pretty amazing.
They quoted me $XXXX, and 30 days to finish it (I don't like posting the price because I still don't like admitting to myself I paid that much!). They ended up sticking to the price point, but it took over 100 days to get every body panel back from them. It was quite frustrating at times, even though I had a lot to do with the engine and frame. These next few photos are over the course of those months they had it.
Bodywork:
Getting ready for paint:
After it was shot:
Curing:
I also had them do a few other things for custom touches on the vehicle. Mostly because these items were already silver, so they clashed with cement gray color.
Engine cover
Shift selector cover
All 4 speaker grills
Immediately after getting it home, I wanted to get the coatings in and under the tub since this would be the easiest time. This was the process-
2 layers of Lizard Skin sound deadening
Wait 24 hrs
2 layers of Lizard Skin ceramic heat insulation
Wait 24 hrs
2 layers of Upol Raptorlilner
Wait 24 hrs
Masking off:
Sounded deadener done:
Ceramic layer done:
Raptorliner done:
Time for body work! As I said earlier, I originally wanted to do it, but decided not to. I ended up finding a shop that wanted to take on the job. I saw some of their work and it was pretty amazing.
They quoted me $XXXX, and 30 days to finish it (I don't like posting the price because I still don't like admitting to myself I paid that much!). They ended up sticking to the price point, but it took over 100 days to get every body panel back from them. It was quite frustrating at times, even though I had a lot to do with the engine and frame. These next few photos are over the course of those months they had it.
Bodywork:
Getting ready for paint:
After it was shot:
Curing:
I also had them do a few other things for custom touches on the vehicle. Mostly because these items were already silver, so they clashed with cement gray color.
Engine cover
Shift selector cover
All 4 speaker grills
Immediately after getting it home, I wanted to get the coatings in and under the tub since this would be the easiest time. This was the process-
2 layers of Lizard Skin sound deadening
Wait 24 hrs
2 layers of Lizard Skin ceramic heat insulation
Wait 24 hrs
2 layers of Upol Raptorlilner
Wait 24 hrs
Masking off:
Sounded deadener done:
Ceramic layer done:
Raptorliner done:
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ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
I'm considering that lizard skin ceramic coating for the underside of my roof. Comes in white. Wonder if that would help with the heat much since there is so much glass.
Your building what with her around......BUILD POST 4
I knew whatever FJ40 I ended up getting would eventually receive a 2UZ from a Tundra. I had been looking around locally, and found one from an 03 Tundra at a local wrecking yard. I ran the VIN, and verified the mileage they told me, which was 53k. They wanted $1000 for it, which I was happy to pay, being that I got to inspect it first. It was extremely clean. No rust and out of a local vehicle. I even got to see the Tundra it came from.
Taking a Toyota heart back home to do a transplant:
I originally wanted to keep the manual transmission. At the time, my girlfriend lived in Tucson, and I was down there visiting her when I found a local buyer selling an H55. He was asking a fair price, so I grabbed some cash and bought it while I could. It was in great condition, and I figured a 2UZ, H55, and a split case would be an amazing combo!
The only pic I have of the H55:
Cool it, Dude, or he'll stop them....
HahahahaCool it, Dude, or he'll stop them....
I knocked up my shop assistant of course we were married and still are two kids later.
Excellent thread. Wish I had your skills and patience. The 2UZ/5 speed combo in my 100 series is awesome and can't think of a better performer for the 40. Be interested to see in your build thread how you handled the frame supports as I just had to correct what the PO did for my 350/NV4500 setup
top quality stuff here. thanks for sharing and motivating everyone
any reason you added flares instead of leaving the rear fender line stock?
any reason you added flares instead of leaving the rear fender line stock?
