Those tie rod ends are 555, aftermarket from Japan. Good quality parts. They don't look especially tired, although something is messed up with that boot/zerk in the first photo.
Builds The "Red Rocket" Troopy (9 Viewers)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #182
Decorated the front of the Red Rocket for the holidays, maybeeee went a bit overboard it's just ALOT of green. Either way, it's funny and gets a lot of looks. Even though this is a thread for the Troopy, I thought I'd add a picture of the 55 from last year as well.
- Thread starter
- #183
Well, I re-torqued the U-bolts and the problem still persisted. Low and behold I see this
Now like I always say, I'm certainly no expert... but I believe my tie rod ends have seen much better days. The snap, crackle, and popping doesn't sound all that healthy, as well with that massive downwards clunk halfway through the turn. I'll give Cruiser Outfitters a call tomorrow
FJBen
SILVER Star
Yep, just replace them all, it's like $125ish for all new 555 joints, not hard at all to do either. Rent or buy a puller and get after it.
i see your enjoying the troopy,,, good onya.
- Thread starter
- #186
I fitted some Christmas lights to the roof rack and I love the way they look, especially the interior. Might actually keep the interior ones after Christmas due to the Red Rocket not having any interior lighting. Now I just wait and see if any cops will pull me over haha.
now just gotta wait for that Christmastime shipping
Got them ordered
now just gotta wait for that Christmastime shippingAppreciate it! Still much more to come, over a VERY long stretch of time
awesome man,,, have fun with it,,, good to see you keeping it alive and learning along the way,,, most of us old guys learned by doing as well.
I am really glad you did this work your self!!!!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter
- #189
Thank you both! Means a lot. Many people are surprised when they find out that myself, and my father as well, do pretty much all the work on our own. Albeit, half the time we do something wrong, realize we messed up once we have finished, have to disassemble it all over again, and thennnnnnn put it back together (correctly). My father grew up doing all the work when he was a teen in the dirt and mud of their driveway, so he says I get to learn the exact same way haha. Looking back, it's crazy how much I have learned in a 2-year timespan of having Cruisers in my life, just 2 years ago my mother and I got the FJ40 that started my dad and I's Cruiser addiction. Back then I had a very crude understanding of how cars worked and now I understand most everything and how it all ties together etc etc.
- Thread starter
- #190
After a lot of hard work on my dad's Prado, such as rebuilding the knuckles, putting in manual locking hubs, replacing the radiator, and a lot of bushings being replaced, it's finally road worthy! So naturally, we took it out to the beach with the troopy to see just how well it would do, it was killer. If the troopy with a turbo moves anything like how his Prado does, I'll be more than happy. Also, my tie rod ends came in the mail tonight, but it'll be raining a lot so I won't be able to get them in for a while.
- Thread starter
- #192
Merry Christmas everyone!
A bit has happened with the Troopy since I last posted and a bit more will be done to it in the near future. I just need bit of advice as usual haha
First off I got my new TRE's in, this took care of about 50% of the popping and snapping when I turn my wheel but I'm a bit disappointed to say that it's still there, just less. I painted them as well because my dad heard that they rust horribly almost immediately so why not paint them before I put them on. Also got everything aligned at a shop and its the first time my steering wheel has been straight since I've owned it The only complaint is it looks like the same rubber boot isn't holding any grease... Just like how the old one wouldn't. If anyone can check to see if thier's kinda puffs up and holds grease I would appreciate it, I could get like 2 pumps into it and then it just came shooting out of the front.
Secondly, one of my batteries finally crapped out and I couldn't start it one morning. I knew it was bad and corroding extremely horribly, even though I would clean it almost daily. 2 of the 4 connectors to the terminals were absolute crap, they wouldn't tighten or loosen no matter how much you would tighten or loosen the nut on them. It had been like this since I got it and sometimes resulted in arching of the terminals when I would go to start it sometimes, hence the terminal looking like it was chewed on by a dog.
And finally, I got an Issopro EV2 Pyrometer for Christmas! I read on the forums that it works with 12v & 24v for the nighttime lighting and it looks almost OEM which I like a lot as well. Where would be the best place to mount it on a NA 3B exhaust manifold for the most accurate results? Thank you all and I hope everyone is having a great Christmas (or whatever else you celebrate)
A bit has happened with the Troopy since I last posted and a bit more will be done to it in the near future. I just need bit of advice as usual haha
First off I got my new TRE's in, this took care of about 50% of the popping and snapping when I turn my wheel but I'm a bit disappointed to say that it's still there, just less. I painted them as well because my dad heard that they rust horribly almost immediately so why not paint them before I put them on. Also got everything aligned at a shop and its the first time my steering wheel has been straight since I've owned it
The only complaint is it looks like the same rubber boot isn't holding any grease... Just like how the old one wouldn't. If anyone can check to see if thier's kinda puffs up and holds grease I would appreciate it, I could get like 2 pumps into it and then it just came shooting out of the front.
Secondly, one of my batteries finally crapped out and I couldn't start it one morning. I knew it was bad and corroding extremely horribly, even though I would clean it almost daily. 2 of the 4 connectors to the terminals were absolute crap, they wouldn't tighten or loosen no matter how much you would tighten or loosen the nut on them. It had been like this since I got it and sometimes resulted in arching of the terminals when I would go to start it sometimes, hence the terminal looking like it was chewed on by a dog.
And finally, I got an Issopro EV2 Pyrometer for Christmas! I read on the forums that it works with 12v & 24v for the nighttime lighting and it looks almost OEM which I like a lot as well. Where would be the best place to mount it on a NA 3B exhaust manifold for the most accurate results? Thank you all and I hope everyone is having a great Christmas
(or whatever else you celebrate)
For a 24v rig. Replace both the batteries at the same time, and try to get a set of the exact ones with as close a build date as possible... Even slight differences in the batteries can create imbalances that can eventually take one or both out prematurely.
Also, be sure to never tap the low side positive battery to get 12v to accessories as that will put an uneven load on the low side and have the same effect described above. Always convert full 24v to 12v using a converter if you need to run 12v accessories.
Lastly, sometimes you get arcing like that when you have corroded ground wires on the starter to the frame... The monster starter pulls a lot of amps and if the ground is bad, it can cause all sorts of weird issues...
Great work on the truck! My wife went to Hoggard and we come back every (normal) year to visit her family... I'll hit you up next time we can come out!
Also, be sure to never tap the low side positive battery to get 12v to accessories as that will put an uneven load on the low side and have the same effect described above. Always convert full 24v to 12v using a converter if you need to run 12v accessories.
Lastly, sometimes you get arcing like that when you have corroded ground wires on the starter to the frame... The monster starter pulls a lot of amps and if the ground is bad, it can cause all sorts of weird issues...
Great work on the truck! My wife went to Hoggard and we come back every (normal) year to visit her family... I'll hit you up next time we can come out!
Last edited:
gilmorneau
SILVER Star
Absolutely replace both batteries at the same time.
Not sure anyone mentioned it, but the size batteries you're looking for are one group 27, and one group 27F. You should be able to get the same brand/construction/amps in both. The two batteries are mirror images of each other--i.e. the terminals are reversed between a 27 and 27F. Terminals should be facing the motor on both sides of the car (if that makes any sense).
Not sure anyone mentioned it, but the size batteries you're looking for are one group 27, and one group 27F. You should be able to get the same brand/construction/amps in both. The two batteries are mirror images of each other--i.e. the terminals are reversed between a 27 and 27F. Terminals should be facing the motor on both sides of the car (if that makes any sense).
gilmorneau
SILVER Star
First off I got my new TRE's in, this took care of about 50% of the popping and snapping when I turn my wheel but I'm a bit disappointed to say that it's still there, just less. I painted them as well because my dad heard that they rust horribly almost immediately so why not paint them before I put them on. Also got everything aligned at a shop and its the first time my steering wheel has been straight since I've owned it
Re: play/popping in the steering, if you've got new TRE's installed, try checking the steering box. Could be worn, or might just need adjustment. Another (remote) possibility might be the steering shaft (especially the universal joints/couplings). Basically, just trace the steering system from the steering wheel to the tires checking for play at each component. You'll find it.
Re: the TRE boots not holding grease, I would guess that the TRE's come pre-greased, and maybe there's just not a lot of room for more in there. You might try checking the zerk fittings to see if they're appropriately tight and that the grease isn't just coming out around the zerk threads. I just looked at mine, and the boots aren't "puffed up" with grease or anything. Didn't try adding grease to see what would happen.
If you don't have one, may I recommend that you get yourself a FSM? It's the gift you really wanted for Christmas.
- Thread starter
- #196
Thank y'all, I appreciate this info IMMENSELY, luckily my dad is an electrical engineer so he's very knowledgeable when it comes to anything electrical. However, if my father wasn't an electrical engineer I most definitely would have just put in 1 new battery and screwed the other one over and have to deal with the consequences of me being partially clueless when it comes to electrical stuff.
There is definitely play in my steering box and shaft, I also tightened the nut on the steering box half a turn which made my steering have a bit less play in it. I read up on it and made sure not to overtighten so don't worry in that regard. I also tightened anything I could along the steering shaft but it was all pretty tight, unless the u-joints are just shot. I've never had tight or solid steering in any car I've had as a daily so it has just become normal to me and I don't really pay much attention to it... probably should though haha.
Ok, awesome thank you for checking, just was a bit concerned about that. Didn't wanna have a malfunctioning TRE right out of the box haha
Didn't even think of that! Guess that'll be my Christmas gift next year haha. Would be really helpful to have
No way! First @Bogan who grew up here and now you who have ties back to Wilmington. Small world. I'm a senior at Hanover right now, but my mom went to Hoggard and graduated in 1985. Maybe they knew each other, it's a small smallllll world.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Merry Christmas, these are in the resources section here on mud.
I keep these on my phone for quick reference as well.
Body & Chassis Manual
https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/...-body-manual-from-10-84-thru-1-90.26/download
Engine Manual
https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/b-3b-11b-13b-13bt-engine-repair-manual.5/download
- Thread starter
- #198
DANG! I guess Christmas came 12 months early, thank you!
- Thread starter
- #199
Speaking of... my father got me a 24v-12v power converter for Christmas as well. I've wanted one for a while to just be able to run any 12v accessories off of like you said. My friend gave me a PA a couple of months ago that I haven't been able to use because like you said, it'll mess with the batteries. And this PA is LOUD, very loud... don't worry I'll use it for good, like insulting squatted truck drivers in traffic. I also took some of the fog lights off of my dad's Prado's bullbar that he took off because he hates chrome, does anyone know if the Bosch foglights are OEM? because there is a factory switch inside to operate them that looks very OEM. Anyways here are some pics of the install and the Troopy with some non-working foglights currently
Hi
Bosch fog lights are not OEM . The switch looks OEM . I know several European spec BJ45 , with 24 volts that have a similar switch . They were used to power the factory installed trailer harness when you hook a trailer . I believe that some older North American cruisers such a switch also . In my humble opinion , a 24v-12v converter is not a good decision . It will cause a charge imbalance to both your batteries in a relatively short amount of time , and you will have to buy both of them . Not cheap . To power the converter in a way that causes the least amount of trouble , you must hook it to the auxiliary power supply box - a small black box near the air filter . The way there should be not much trouble to the batteries , but you will be a tad limited about how much power you can take from there . European diesel 6# series also had a place were you could hook a volt converter , just below the clutch master cylinder , but only with enough power to hook a small radio with no amplifier . Factory 24-12 volt converters were so expensive that diesel series 6# with factory radio are extremely rare . Don't know if the BJ75 had that power point also . BJ45s hadn't . Best of luck to you and the BJ75 ! Cheers !
