Builds The Oddball 80 - Middle East GX Renovation (7 Viewers)

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As I was anxiously waiting for my Coil and Igniter to show up, I added a fuel pressure gauge to make sure this thing was getting gas.

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Got the new parts in. So excited. Cranked it

Nothing. Then I had an idea. Plug all this emissions crap in and see if I had an incomplete circuit


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Boom💥💥we have fire. And, by the way, a check engine light as well now. But it won’t stay running. Turns out ALL these dumb hoses have to be attached for it to idle
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Hooked all that up and it’s running nice and smooth. That said, I don’t have a tachometer now.

Turns out the entire time I had the gray plug unplugged here along with the smog stuff. I re-unplugged the smog and lastly unplugged the gray plug and it died. Problem solved. Other than the tach.....
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Put the Toyota igniter back on and I have a tach. Topped off the fluids. Can’t go peel out until I get a differential built but at least I can move it around in front wheel drive now.
 
What is that plug for? I’ve desmogged a few FJ62’s and never ran into that, I’m curious
 
What is that plug for? I’ve desmogged a few FJ62’s and never ran into that, I’m curious

No idea. Remember. This EFI was added to a 3F, none of my standard wire diagrams have proven very helpful.

It has 3 red wires.

Killed the spark I know that. It also killed the Light Purple wire I was previously using for switched 12v for my fuel pump.

I had to switch that over to the Black/Yellow + coil wire. I don’t see any reason to switch back to the Light Purple wire now though.
 
It can never be TRIPLE LOCKED so I can concede that I’ll never really be in the club.

I thought the transfer case for the manual transmission did "lock" the output front and rear when shifted to 4H or 4L (at least that's been my working assumption on my FZJ75)? Of course that could just be a naive assumption on my part.

Glad you got it running again. The Air Force expended an incredible amount of effort to get that 3F injected. Certainly wouldn't be worth it to me but I guess our tax dollars have gone to worse things.
 
I thought the transfer case for the manual transmission did "lock" the output front and rear when shifted to 4H or 4L (at least that's been my working assumption on my FZJ75)? Of course that could just be a naive assumption on my part..................
That is generally true for traditional part time transfer cases, regardless of the transmission. U.S. built full size rigs had variations for a while with Jeep's "Quadratrac" and GM's attempts with full time transfer cases. One other thing to note that I found out the hard way is that when in "N" or the neutral position on part time transfer cases, the drive shafts are also locked. After flat towing my US spec '94 80 series and just throwing the T/C in neutral, I figured I could do the same with my '81 mini with a 5 speed and part time T/C. Wrong! Should have left the T/C in 2 Hi. That way if you have the lock out hubs, you won't spin the front drive shaft or axles while moving.
 
Technically, not correct.

The HF1A is a part time gear box. When you put into 4H/4L it does not lock anything. It merely makes sure 50/50 power is being distributed to both the front and the rear driveshaft (must engage front hubs) as opposed to the 2H/2L position where power is only going to the rear. The HF1A is basically the same as the split case but designed just slightly differently.

This is the schematic for the HF1A:

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You can see it is almost exactly the same as the BF1A split case:

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The HF2A and HF2AV is where you actually get a real differential to lock and a real carrier inside of the case as well like a differential:

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Technically, not correct.

It merely makes sure 50/50 power is being distributed to both the front and the rear driveshaft as opposed to the 2H position where power is only going to the rear.

So how does it do that Onur?
 
So how does it do that Onur?

You shift into the transfer gear you want, then you get out and you engage your front manual hubs. Then you have 50/50 power going to both front and rear axles. If you don't engage your front manual hubs you are merely in 2L in a part time transfer case setup with power going only to the rear axle.
 
You shift into the transfer gear you want, then you get out and you engage your front manual hubs. Then you have 50/50 power going to both front and rear axles. If you don't engage your front manual hubs you are merely in 2L in a part time transfer case setup with power going only to the rear axle.

Yes I assumed that was what you had to do except you can skip the locking hub part for my FZJ75.

So not to mince words with you but would it be fair to say that in 4H or 4L the transfer case is locked into a 50:50 split of power and that the difference with a "locked" center diff is only that it can't be unlocked?
 
Yes I assumed that was what you had to do except you can skip the locking hub part for my FZJ75.

So not to mince words with you but would it be fair to say that in 4H or 4L the transfer case is locked into a 50:50 split of power and that the difference with a "locked" center diff is only that it can't be unlocked?

I guess that's fair to say.
 

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