Build The Monkey is Back
- Thread starter Chamba
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This is where the tig welder comes into play- ACC can get you fixed up. There’s also a reinforced filler that has metal in it.
Do they still make MetalSet? Wow - yes they do at $100 for 2 medium sized tubes.
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- Jul 22, 2012
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- Winter Park, Florida
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- www.cruisermatts.com
I or one of my guys can probably TIG that
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- Apr 21, 2005
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A life time ago when I did HVAC we used silver to solder on dissimilar metals. Because it was handy used it to fill metal on my original FJ40. When I bought it had a rip in the hood where metal came apart. Flattened out and used silver on the rip. Would never be able to spot from the top side. Underside I put one inch duct liner to absorb sound. Years ago I filled the holes in the tailgate in the right that I purchased years before that. Had holes from an aftermarket top. Solder them with silver and filed down. Guaranteed never to rust in that spot.
Interesting I added the photo from downloaded pictures but nothing there.
While editing I see the photo number but no photo. Too high tech for me to figure out.
Would that channel be in this mustard coloured door?
I love high temp silver solder with the proper flux. They used 200 ounces of the stuff to make each B-17.
- Thread starter
- #267
It would, unless it's been removed to get the latch out. It bolts in at the rear of the door covering the door latch. It's about 14" long, 3/4" wide and U-shaped with a wider U-shaped channel welded to the top which slips over the bracket in the door just under the window sill.
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With the proper flux it is amazing what it will bond to. For a short time I ran a Holley 500 then 350 on my 68. Aftermarket air cleaner had a round tube out the bottom. Was too shape to bend a rubber hose so I used silver solder and attach a copper street L for the breather off the valve cover. Air cleaner was chromed but solder just fine.
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- Apr 21, 2005
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I realized where and what the channel is. It's still there. Still has the felt as well. Never removed one. Once the bolt on the lower back is removed should should it just slide down and be free? Currently piece of the window crank fit on the glass is currently resting in the channel. This came off a wrecked 40 in a salvage yard. Do not know how the top of the door got bend. It's been twenty years since the picture I had in an earlier post. Back when everything wasn't price like it was gold plated. Bought because a friend had given me a driver's door with some damage to make a half door.
- Thread starter
- #270
Wow. Even the bolts in that are pristine! Boy, do I miss western rigs.
Yes, unscrew that 10mm bolt in the aft side of the door below the latch and then just wiggle the channel while gently pulling downward on it. It'll just pop off and fall to the bottom of the door. I don't need the felt, just the channel.
Thank you very much for this. PM me and we can take care of the details.
Yes, unscrew that 10mm bolt in the aft side of the door below the latch and then just wiggle the channel while gently pulling downward on it. It'll just pop off and fall to the bottom of the door. I don't need the felt, just the channel.
Thank you very much for this. PM me and we can take care of the details.
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- Thread starter
- #271
I picked up the window frames from the powder and they are both bad. I knew about the one with the rust holes because I found that at the last minute. The other one, unbeknownst to me, had quite a bit of bondo making it look decent. After the blasting and the powder coating it now looks like garbage.
So I now have freshly tinted windows , new Toyota felts for the runners, new Toyota sweeps and outer rubber weather strip. But I am now missing the window frames to hold them all together. Six hundred dollars in and I have no windows.
So given the chances of finding those window frames are almost nil before I go back to Australia in July..... I am thinking about the Spector 40 series slider windows. Unfortunately it doesn't look like they're available at Spector anymore. I may just put '76 and older solid side window glass in until I eventually find that frame. Of course that means buying the weather stripping for a '7 and older 40 series.....
This is the first Land Cruiser I have ever regretted buying. My advice to anyone looking to purchase a third world vehicle is to only do so if it is being fully restored in America. If you do buy one that is proclaimed to have been restored in South America or some other equivalent cultural mecca then anticipate that it is hiding all sorts of problems. It may look good but that beauty will only be skin deep.
Labor is so cheap in these places that fixing things properly is almost a waste of money. One can make it look good for pennies. If that means you have to redo it every couple years then the cost is negligible. There must have been at least 5 hours worth of labour in the Bondo work to make these window channels look good. But that was probably cheaper than the $10 it would have taken to purchase a straight one from a wrecking yard in a place where these are common; not to mention it would take logistics to obtain those channels, and that takes planning. Planning is only done by the 'boss', and he's not going to waste his time on that when he can make it look good for probably $1.50 labour cost.
So I now have freshly tinted windows , new Toyota felts for the runners, new Toyota sweeps and outer rubber weather strip. But I am now missing the window frames to hold them all together. Six hundred dollars in and I have no windows.
So given the chances of finding those window frames are almost nil before I go back to Australia in July..... I am thinking about the Spector 40 series slider windows. Unfortunately it doesn't look like they're available at Spector anymore. I may just put '76 and older solid side window glass in until I eventually find that frame. Of course that means buying the weather stripping for a '7 and older 40 series.....
This is the first Land Cruiser I have ever regretted buying. My advice to anyone looking to purchase a third world vehicle is to only do so if it is being fully restored in America. If you do buy one that is proclaimed to have been restored in South America or some other equivalent cultural mecca then anticipate that it is hiding all sorts of problems. It may look good but that beauty will only be skin deep.
Labor is so cheap in these places that fixing things properly is almost a waste of money. One can make it look good for pennies. If that means you have to redo it every couple years then the cost is negligible. There must have been at least 5 hours worth of labour in the Bondo work to make these window channels look good. But that was probably cheaper than the $10 it would have taken to purchase a straight one from a wrecking yard in a place where these are common; not to mention it would take logistics to obtain those channels, and that takes planning. Planning is only done by the 'boss', and he's not going to waste his time on that when he can make it look good for probably $1.50 labour cost.
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- Thread starter
- #272
I finally got the roof off of the Paki Pig. I was right about them not using weather stripping .... but what they used instead was double-stick tape. It took an incredible amount of lifting, prying and patiencs but I finally got it off. No rust on the lip , which was a relief. I Cleaned out the factory sealant and replaced it with fresh urethane.
Hopefully, I'll raptor line it later this week. I'll let it cure for a week or two then get the roof back on with the fresh Toyota weather strip.
I think the grey is growing on me. Seeing it with the top off kind of makes me appreciate it more. Maybe one day I'll get to drive it more than 11 miles.
Hopefully, I'll raptor line it later this week. I'll let it cure for a week or two then get the roof back on with the fresh Toyota weather strip.
I think the grey is growing on me. Seeing it with the top off kind of makes me appreciate it more. Maybe one day I'll get to drive it more than 11 miles.
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Here ya go. He marked the ad sold but bumped the post in January. He seems to have a source. You might reach out to him.
FJ40 HJ47 OEM rear sliding window
This is a set of genuine rear sliding window not an aftermarket product.
Used with no rust in the frames. Every element is there. All glasses and latches are genuine. Central chrome divider is there too. Will be the cherry on top for a restoration project or a cool addition to your current daily!
$885 shipped.
This is a set of genuine rear sliding window not an aftermarket product.
Used with no rust in the frames. Every element is there. All glasses and latches are genuine. Central chrome divider is there too. Will be the cherry on top for a restoration project or a cool addition to your current daily!
$885 shipped.
Heres a more recent link.
SOLD THIS PAIR. Another one is available. Refer below to post #12.
*****************************************************
Pair of factory rear sliding window
Solid frames with no rust through
All original glasses
All original latches
Both chrome central divider are present
Outer rubber in good condition
Have videos of them showing their condition.
*****************************************************
Pair of factory rear sliding window
Solid frames with no rust through
All original glasses
All original latches
Both chrome central divider are present
Outer rubber in good condition
Have videos of them showing their condition.
I came here to write: Where do you call home? If you were closer, and if I had more motivation to find a set of nice US spec doors and paint them, I’d make you a deal on my 43 vent window doors.
But then I thought about it: seems like the doors are all the same between vent and non vent models, and it’s just a difference in the window guts?
And then I realized: all my past experience is with the early doors. So who knows!?
But then I thought about it: seems like the doors are all the same between vent and non vent models, and it’s just a difference in the window guts?
And then I realized: all my past experience is with the early doors. So who knows!?
- Thread starter
- #277
@mdsims the truck is located in florida. I've actually finally got the door sorted I think and I'm just waiting for the window runner channel.
Yes, the later model doors are the same for both vent and non-vent. The non-vent doors even have the holes to hold the vent window assembly. Many years ago when I was still in Australia, I sent probanly half a dozen sets of vent window guts to the US for people to put into 40 series doors here.
Yes, the later model doors are the same for both vent and non-vent. The non-vent doors even have the holes to hold the vent window assembly. Many years ago when I was still in Australia, I sent probanly half a dozen sets of vent window guts to the US for people to put into 40 series doors here.
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Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Wow I thought I had looked high and low for sliders a few years ago. That looks like a great deal.Heres a more recent link.
SOLD THIS PAIR. Another one is available. Refer below to post #12.
*****************************************************
Pair of factory rear sliding window
Solid frames with no rust through
All original glasses
All original latches
Both chrome central divider are present
Outer rubber in good condition
Have videos of them showing their condition.
I ended up making my own sliders from a few different types of channel and runner, and it is functional but I don’t have it laying very nicely. Not sure it can. I had custom length top and needed something longer than any factory window anyway, but probably would have bought those sliders and filled the space with something else if I had known about them.
I’d jump on those sliders Chamba.
- Thread starter
- #279
I'll be in Australia in July. There's no shortage of sliders back in Adelaide: there's a couple sets at Just Wrecking right now I just found out. I can wait to save $600 (heck, it doesn't even run right now) plus I can pick the nicest.
I am putting together a small list of things I'll get while I'm back. There's no shortage to what the Paki Pig needs......
I am putting together a small list of things I'll get while I'm back. There's no shortage to what the Paki Pig needs......
- Thread starter
- #280
The raptor line is now done. I wish I had gotten six quarts as it's a little thinner than I would have liked, but it's done and looks nice.
I will let it cure for a week.And then put the roof back on.
I will let it cure for a week.And then put the roof back on.