The Great ONSC Gun Thread

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

phrogg4evr said:
Hoppes #9, what I use on all my guns, best bore cleaner out there. They do make a newer semi-auto specific version, but the standard old #9 works great on all my shooting irons.

I have a gallon jug of CLP which I think is made by Break-free. Great stuff.

As far as residue, the #9 is easily wiped off, the CLP is also easily wiped off but may leave a bit of residue, not greasy or oily though. Any residue left wont hurt the polymer frame at all. I have been slathering it on my G27 for about 15 years now and no issues :meh:

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Click to expand...

as always. thanks again. You are in my ppo for gun doctors. Always have the answer.
 
Samuel Clemons may have a lose interpretation. Who knows.
 
Yukon LX said:
one more to the glock guys. and sorry to inundate the thread, there is just too much out there on the googler.

what do you guys use to clean the frame and outside of the slide. Also, other than the very easy instructions in the manual, what do you use to clean the internals other than the barrel. Right now, i am using Remington Boar cleaner on the barrel, and other sooty areas, and remoil for the few drops where prescribed.
Click to expand...

A little late here. You have gotten great answers, but there is one item I would add. I use a good lightweight grease such as Mil-Comm's TW-25B or my small hoard of old mil-spec lubriplate on the rails of every semi-auto pistol I own. The trick is to put enough on to eliminate wear (or galling if parts are stainless) but not so much that the grease attracts dirt which will increase wear.

My $0.02 on top of what everyone else has said ...
 
elkaholic said:
A little late here. You have gotten great answers, but there is one item I would add. I use a good lightweight grease such as Mil-Comm's TW-25B or my small hoard of old mil-spec lubriplate on the rails of every semi-auto pistol I own. The trick is to put enough on to eliminate wear (or galling if parts are stainless) but not so much that the grease attracts dirt which will increase wear.

My $0.02 on top of what everyone else has said ...
Click to expand...

With all due respect, that may be true for "most" handguns but not for a Glock. My experience is a Glock runs best closer to "dry" than anything else. Glocks literally only need 6 drops of CLP/Break Free or the like, times I've seen others use anything heavier, caused issues.

That's my laymen's experience for competition/carry, others who have experience in other venues probably have a different perspective, just my 2 cents...
 
Jerry -

I agree with you relative to the fact that Glocks better closer to "dry". I have used the same lube on every pistol I have owned, including several Glocks. The key to using it on a Glock is EXTREMELY light application. Until I found the TW-25, I used the lubriplate exclusively and had several thousand rounds through Glocks using it. An armorer in the AMU at Benning taught me to use it and gave me a small supply. On a Glock (or other polymer frame pistol), I apply it with a toothpick and most folks would not know it was there I apply so little and to very specific points.

For most weapons, over lubrication is as bad a sin as under lubrication if you want the best reliability.
 
A little late to the shotgun argument but I have both an 870 and a benelli M2 semi auto. I love the 870 for easy skeet and just for fun. Plus the sound of racking it is unmistakable. However, for any kind of serious clay work or more importantly for bird shooting (Pheasant) you need the rapid cycle of the semi auto. But that is just my own two cents.
 
A little late for the cleaning discussion but here's what I've picked up since I ramped up my gun involvement in the last ten years. My most valued input came from some ISDT/IDPA/Threegun competition shooters I know.
Here's what I use:
Shooter's Choice bore cleaner for whatever saw copper; bore, chamber, bolt face. Soak bore well. Then brush well.
Break-Free CLP to neutralize the ammonia in the bore cleaner and clean up the carbon and dirty lubes. Don't forget to soak your brush in CLP to neutralize the ammonia, otherwise your brush will begin to disintegrate. All bore solvents have some including Hoppes #9 or whatever. The solvent needs to be removed/neutralized.
Use clean patches, rags (old clean t-shirt pieces are perfect) and brush to pick up the rest of the dirt, use until they come back clean.
VERY light oiling* on moving parts, wipe-on wipe-off. I use Mobil 1 15-50. A dab of grease on slide rails, I use Shooter's Choice All-Weather Hi-Temp grease.

* When I was using Glocks I wasn't running guns as wet as I do now but what Jerry says sounds right. The book says a drop or two of light oil in a certain place is all the lube Glocks want.
Don't let any oil or other chemicals get inside the bolt on guns, it can run down and wet a primer and cause a mis-fire, also lets dirt build up in areas only a gunsmith should have access to. ARs of course are a special case, you disassemble the bolt and clean the firing pin, springs, ejector etc every cleaning. Big PITA but needs doing.
My AR liked to be pretty wet, my pistols slightly wet, all I lube on a revolver is a little oil on the cylinder axle and a drop down the side of the hammer occasionally.
 
Last edited:
Anyone have a Model 70 Winchester and is there really anything to the Pre/Post 64 argument? And completely separate should I put anything on the threads of the mounting screws for a scope baseplate?
Thanks.
 
Last edited:
anybody here read "The Principles of Personal Defense" by Jeff Cooper. Is it as good as the reviews say, even though it was written over 20 years ago?
 
Yes, and Yes, it is as good as the reviews suggest. Also try "Stressfire" by Massad Ayoob as well as "Concealed Carry" by the same author.
 
Phares said:
Anyone have a Model 70 Winchester and is there really anything to the Pre/Post 64 argument? And completely separate should I put anything on the threads of the mounting screws for a scope baseplate?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

Ahhhhhh, the Model 70. Classic bolt action rifle. Well, for gun enthusiasts, the pre-64 M70s are the holy grail of bolt guns. The current M70s are fine rifles, but the pre-64 design had a bunch of features that are sought after in a bolt gun. Too many to list, but it was a quality action as fine as a swiss watch;) However, to compete with the Model 700, they changed the deisgn to reduce production costs, and it was not as good a rifle. In the early 90s, Winny changed the action again to make it feature-wise similar to the pre-64. Bottom line, if you can get one at a decent price, get the pre-64. But, the modern variants are very nice:cheers: I'm hoping to pick up a pre-64 in 30.06 one of these days:D

On the mounting screws, little blue loctite should be fine
 
did some art work today

so i did a little painting with some nail polish on my glock today and a couple mags. It turned out really well. I would have loved to have done carolina blue, but could not find it. White looks nice though.

Glock Painting 1.webp

glock painting 2.webp

glock painting 3.webp

Glock Painting 1.webp


glock painting 2.webp


glock painting 3.webp
 
and the results

glock painting 4.webp

glock painting 5.webp

glock painting 4.webp


glock painting 5.webp
 
glock 6.webp

glock 6.webp
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom