Build The '93 Troopy Hodgepodge
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Thanks!
The only other question is the fan and shroud. I'd be very surprised if the 1HD-FTE's fan/clutch and 1VD shroud's xyz axis lined up. It's possible though.
You're welcome. I think (but don't know) that even if the VD's shroud were to be correct in terms of lining, it would be too deep outward (towards the rear of the vehicle) to correctly place the fan (in terms of protrusion into the shroud/stock-out) on a long 6 banger FTE. My guess would be you want a short shroud and that there is a good chance that a 1hz one would work.
Sorry, my new hz powered 79's are on farms 500 and 1000 miles away respectively, so hard to take a photo for you now to compare.
I would think the HZ powered ones would work
Is there any reason that a VD radiator is more desired over an HZ radiator? Obviously an HZ radiator that fits the wide nose is available, and I would just think that due to the electronic control , V shaped block (different cooling passages, and aren't the heads aluminum?) , and common rail aspect of the VD that its Radiator cooling requirements would be less applicable to the FTE than the HZ would be. Especially if you can get a full metal OE radiator for HZ vs the polymer capped style in the pics above for VD.
I get where you are coming from and generally prefer an all-metal (bass or aluminum) radiator vs plastic tanks crimped to the side. OE is however either all brass (heavy, thicker than alu and less efficient).
We work the VD's hard in Africa on really bad roads at speeds very much illegal in the US and the tanks last many years before fatigue sets in (15years +).
The Gturbo setup will need a big intercooler which, like a PDI, takes up a lot of space.
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- #1,207
I don't know the cooling efficiency of the 1hz vs 1vd radiator. I'm just assuming a turbo V8 diesel would require a more efficient radiator than a 1HD or certainly a naturally aspirated 1HZ. I could be wrong (I often am).
That does make sense that an aluminum radiator would be more efficient as long as its a quality item. Seems like most aftermarket 1HZ aluminum radiators performance is not as good as OE. It looks like the 1VD takes just under a liter more coolant than the 1HZ so they could be close. I'm sure details on the core count and size would help determine as well. In my head I'm thinking a turbo engine with 4 cyl in each bank and aluminum heads would require less cooling than a cast iron single bank of 6 cyl with no turbo. Since they have the same total displacement. But I am also often wrong! Anyways, I'm looking forward to the final result and good luck!
Terrain Tamer makes some nice aftermarket aluminum rads. I have one sitting in Bend for my narrow nose.
Does anyone here take note of the temps on V8 ..?
Comparing to the 6 inline world the 1HD-T was fresh as hell usually .. per scangauge V8 seems to work a little bit more warmer, mostly on HW ..
Comparing to the 6 inline world the 1HD-T was fresh as hell usually .. per scangauge V8 seems to work a little bit more warmer, mostly on HW ..
That Terrain Tamer unit like @destructomatt mentioned is a sweet piece......I was down for one but I've got no heating issues on camper truck with the 1HDT and auto trans. Can't remember which OEM rad I went with( I thought I got one from you @TonyP) but that truck never breaks 181. Really need to get it out in some big summer heat up some big hills to see what it will do.....
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- #1,212
Yup, from what I remember that was a 1VD radiator.
I'm running a new 1HZ radiator in my truck and around town I seldom see temps above 83° (C)
however in the hills of North Georgia I saw temps in the 90°-92° (C) degree range on long inclines.
however in the hills of North Georgia I saw temps in the 90°-92° (C) degree range on long inclines.
H radiator....definitely not a VD rad.
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I’m running my VDJ200 on a trip to a beach in northern namibe province, Angola on Friday. Will be combo highway/offroad. I’ll plug my scan gauge in and see what temps I get along the way and report back.
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So we have had some of the FTE engine parts Cerakoted. This being the aluminum on the engine. These parts were not only extremely funky/filthy they had corrosion which on aluminum is blackish discoloring on top of pitting. The parts got hot tanked, we then glass bead blasted them in the shoo and lastly they go cleaned up a bit with vapor honing and finally the clear high temp Cerakote.
These parts are absolutely as smooth as butter now and won’t corrode anymore. That is the problem with aluminum, sure you can make it shiny again with blasting and vapor honing but it will quickly discolor and get that blackish hue again if not sealed up. I am really happy with the coating and will probably be using it a lot more, especially on aluminum.
You can see and read more over here in Johns build thread where we are doing a fair amount of Cerakoting.
forum.ih8mud.com
Also, Tony’s valve cover has been powder coated satin black.
We really need to get the H152, our engine wiring and our GTurbo goodies so we can assemble it all and do mock up in the chassis. I also purchased a bunch of specialty engine tools to deal with the bottom end of the block but stupid Covid has caused these to still not ship to me yet, six weeks after purchase.
Cheers
These parts are absolutely as smooth as butter now and won’t corrode anymore. That is the problem with aluminum, sure you can make it shiny again with blasting and vapor honing but it will quickly discolor and get that blackish hue again if not sealed up. I am really happy with the coating and will probably be using it a lot more, especially on aluminum.
You can see and read more over here in Johns build thread where we are doing a fair amount of Cerakoting.
Build - 1997 FZJ80 to HDJ80 1HD-FTE + H152F
This build is as OEM+ as it gets. Just spent the last hour reading the entire thread, congratulations!
forum.ih8mud.com
Also, Tony’s valve cover has been powder coated satin black.
We really need to get the H152, our engine wiring and our GTurbo goodies so we can assemble it all and do mock up in the chassis. I also purchased a bunch of specialty engine tools to deal with the bottom end of the block but stupid Covid has caused these to still not ship to me yet, six weeks after purchase.
Cheers
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So I forgot
I hope this helps. BTW, does anyone know how to change the mileage reading on scan gauge to KM’s instead of miles?
@TonyP and @SNLC, I forgot to use the scan gauge on the beach trip, but not on my 3 day bush trip this week. While traveling, I towed a caravan for roughly 400km on and off road, my scan gauge read between 171-181F throughout the trip both on and off-road. Outside temps were about 35C, A/C always on.
I hope this helps. BTW, does anyone know how to change the mileage reading on scan gauge to KM’s instead of miles?
Get on Graham's case. These figures came out yesterday on a single turbo VDJ running "only" a G350, power pipe, injectors, PDI cooler and even a snorkel (clutch, exhaust, etc also done) -So we have had some of the FTE engine parts Cerakoted. This being the aluminum on the engine. These parts were not only extremely funky/filthy they had corrosion which on aluminum is blackish discoloring on top of pitting. The parts got hot tanked, we then glass bead blasted them in the shoo and lastly they go cleaned up a bit with vapor honing and finally the clear high temp Cerakote.
View attachment 2687821
View attachment 2687822
View attachment 2687823
These parts are absolutely as smooth as butter now and won’t corrode anymore. That is the problem with aluminum, sure you can make it shiny again with blasting and vapor honing but it will quickly discolor and get that blackish hue again if not sealed up. I am really happy with the coating and will probably be using it a lot more, especially on aluminum.
You can see and read more over here in Johns build thread where we are doing a fair amount of Cerakoting.
Build - 1997 FZJ80 to HDJ80 1HD-FTE + H152F
This build is as OEM+ as it gets. Just spent the last hour reading the entire thread, congratulations!
Also, Tony’s valve cover has been powder coated satin black.
View attachment 2687824
View attachment 2687825
We really need to get the H152, our engine wiring and our GTurbo goodies so we can assemble it all and do mock up in the chassis. I also purchased a bunch of specialty engine tools to deal with the bottom end of the block but stupid Covid has caused these to still not ship to me yet, six weeks after purchase.
Cheers
For those who do not read metric, the figures are 440 horsepower and 839 ft-lbs torque.
The bigger turbos make more but are too laggy for my tastes.
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Decided to tear the pistons out of it simply to make clean up, painting and so forth much easier.
Crank looks excellent, doesn’t even need a polish. BEB are well within specs and on the low end of the specs so hardly any wear. Not much of a ridge at top of cylinder bores, cleaned up nicely.
Still need to check bores for round but it doesn’t really look like it needs a hone. Thinking we go standard BEB and rings, like I say still got to check bores before we know on the hone and rings. Piston skirts look excellent.
I checked top of block for true with my expensive straight edge. It is well within soecs, like below the specs range.
Crosshatching looks great for an engine with about 250,000kms.
This was before we ran the pistons through the parts washer.
Cheers
Crank looks excellent, doesn’t even need a polish. BEB are well within specs and on the low end of the specs so hardly any wear. Not much of a ridge at top of cylinder bores, cleaned up nicely.
Still need to check bores for round but it doesn’t really look like it needs a hone. Thinking we go standard BEB and rings, like I say still got to check bores before we know on the hone and rings. Piston skirts look excellent.
I checked top of block for true with my expensive straight edge. It is well within soecs, like below the specs range.
Crosshatching looks great for an engine with about 250,000kms.
This was before we ran the pistons through the parts washer.
Cheers