Build TDI-J70 - LJ70 TDI Swap (Erika)

[DirtSniffer]

The eagle has landed

Now I can pretend to drive and shift it again!

Need to work on the tcase shifter more, I spaced it out with 3 drain plug crush washers and it seems close but now that it's in the car it is slightly hitting the floor hole edge when all the way to the left.

 

[AirheadNut]

Looking good! Such a satisfying feeling to have the drivetrain actually installed in the vehicle.

 

[fjdiesel]

The eagle has landed

Now I can pretend to drive and shift it again!

View attachment 4166683

Need to work on the tcase shifter more, I spaced it out with 3 drain plug crush washers and it seems close but now that it's in the car it is slightly hitting the floor hole edge when all the way to the left.

Its been 10 hours. Is it running?

 

[sogncab]

Its been 10 hours. Is it running?

It's like watching old people screw around here.

 

[DirtSniffer]

Knocked off some low hanging fruit this morning. Added a 4th crush washer behind the tcase shifter and now all looks good. Put the boots on, bolted up the driveshafts (one cross threaded nut I need to replace, hopefully I remember), bolted on the speedo cable, greased and plugged in the trans wiring harness, and hooked up and bled the clutch slave. With the slave in the same spot as it was originally, I was able to just reuse the original slave hose.

Going to take some measurements and order a harness from fast forward, I am currently planning to mount the ECU on this flat spot below the wiper motor. I would then have a smaller car battery in front of it to run the engine and rest of the electronics, and then I'm thinking a large deep cycle in the front driver corner to run the winch and other accessories.

 

[DirtSniffer]

Was able to use the original heater core return hose. Switched up the supply side a bit, now need to make a 180 loop off the coolant flange output and neck down in size.

Looked at ordering a fast forward harness and now see they have a 10-12 week lead time. So I just placed an order for a SESH harness, at most 2-3 weeks if they do not have all of the connectors on hand. May need to modify it a bit, and may be a bit trickier to work out the dash signal wires, but I don't have time to wait for the fast forward harness.

Also threw in the radiator and core support so I can measure for an intercooler. I THINK I can fit one of these in there.

 

[AirheadNut]

You must have a rear heater? That hose routing is looking nice and clean.

I'm just now working on figuring out how to connect up all my various heater hoses. Was planning on getting some manifold/adapter type fittings 3D printed out of aluminum, but then discovered they're manufactured in China and subject to up to 75% tariff so now investigating different options. Thinking about doing a welded aluminum manifold with different sized ports.

 

[DirtSniffer]

You must have a rear heater? That hose routing is looking nice and clean.

I'm just now working on figuring out how to connect up all my various heater hoses. Was planning on getting some manifold/adapter type fittings 3D printed out of aluminum, but then discovered they're manufactured in China and subject to up to 75% tariff so now investigating different options. Thinking about doing a welded aluminum manifold with different sized ports.

Yes, I'm somewhat tempted to delete it but at the same time don't feel like taking stuff apart to do so. Lol.

That's a bummer on the 3D printed stuff, looks like a cool option but probably expensive to have done here.

 

[DirtSniffer]

Ordering radiator hose stuff and ran across this and had to share. T-bolt clamp with a built in steam port? lol

 

[DirtSniffer]

Ground down the welds from my patches on the inner fenders and bolted them back in temporarily. Need to drill a few holes and weld on a pedestal for the rear battery tray yet, and I'm also looking to fab up a new battery tray for the front as the plastic tray was broken and I want a little bigger battery anyways.

I've decided it will be easier to use the original 70 vacuum canister as it is already tucked away nicely and has a hard line over to the brake booster already. And, there is a switch for i assume is a warning light on the dash in it already. Just need to run a line from the vacuum pump over to it and add a T for the N75 valve. This also clears up some room to run the upper radiator hose through that spot.

It will be a bit tight, but I still think the ECU will fit behind the battery there.

Power steering. I am going to use the original 70 reservoir and low pressure return line as they are. I have removed the old high pressure line as I believe it is too small diameter to use as a supply line. I'm thinking I'll run a larger one through an inline cooler behind the low pressure line. Will then need a custom high pressure line made after I get a pump on there.

 

[jblueridge]

Yeah, vac can switch triggers warning on dash.

 

[Old Nick]

Really enjoying reading your thread. I got stalled on my swap for lack of time and cash. But, it's going to happen. Made me very happy to see that engine/transmission in your rig. I'm following along.

 

[DirtSniffer]

Been going down the battery rabbit hole this evening. I was originally thinking about squeezing a group 31 battery in the front to be a dedicated winch/camping accessories battery, but after some measurements it looks like a group 31 will be a bit too tall to fit in the front. The rear tray looks to be able to fit a group 27 size battery.

Options I am considering now are:
1) Run a regular group 24 or 27 in the rear and group 27 AGM in the front
2) Dual group 24 batteries in the rear corner (group 27s too long, would be about 1" off exhaust manifold)
3) Ditch the dual battery system and just run a single group 31 dual purpose AGM battery in the rear.
4)Run a single group 27 dual purpose AGM.

After comparing specs, I'm not sure if the group 31 juice is worth the squeeze. Good bump in CCA, but I do not plan to have this 70 see much if any more salt than it already has.

Rough battery specs I am looking at:
Group 27:
620 CCA
100 AH

Group 31:
800 CCA
110 AH

Currently I am leaning towards option 4 to keep things easy, and running a portable power pack or maybe an aux battery in the rear of the 70 for camping stuff. Not using a battery in the front will also give me space for a compressor or something.

 

[sogncab]

My opinion, single battery. Powerpack in the back for other things.


I've only bought a few AGM batteries, and I've been happy with them over lead acid.


Although, 2 batteries might be good for you and save me from driving all over fricking western South Dakota to find you an alternator so it can be tomorrow's problem.....


and remember, bigger battery to run the intake heater or glow plugs. The amp draw is bonkers getting a diesel to fire

 

[DirtSniffer]

My opinion, single battery. Powerpack in the back for other things.


I've only bought a few AGM batteries, and I've been happy with them over lead acid.


Although, 2 batteries might be good for you and save me from driving all over fricking western South Dakota to find you an alternator so it can be tomorrow's problem.....


and remember, bigger battery to run the intake heater or glow plugs. The amp draw is bonkers getting a diesel to fire

Dual batteries it is then

 

[sogncab]

Dual batteries it is then

I'd do the biggest AGM you can for in the hole

 

[DirtSniffer]

I'll see how much room I have with the stock air cleaner tomorrow, the group 31 is only an inch longer than the 27 and I would think should fit fine. I am also looking at maybe using an 80 air cleaner, but I think with my lower power goals and only 18 psi the stock air cleaner should have adequate CFM. And is one less thing to modify... I'm a fan of the Toyota air cleaners with the built in vortex dust collection.

 

[DirtSniffer]

Was dreading welding on these bump stop pads, but I started making them and decided to keep the momentum going since the welder was out and got them on after work. Welds on the inside are ugly, was struggling to get a good gun angle back there but it'll be fine. Wanted to get this done so I can work on wrapping up the rear so I can focus on the engine.

Current battery box is right up to the air box. I don't have the last coupler to use the original intake to the driver side headlight anyways, so may just shift it forward and come up with another intake route. I do kind of want a dorkel, but not something I want to spend time or money on right now. I will probably rotate the intake outlet down pointed at the turbo, two 90s and it'll be hooked up.

 

[DirtSniffer]

Rear brakes put together, but found an issue.

Cut the mount tab off the little bracket that came with the new Chevy brake lines and welded them to the axle, cut the lines back and re-flared. When I put the rotors and new pads on, I realized the way these calipers work when squeezing the pads pushes the whole caliper inwards. Clearance with the radius arm is already very tight. There is some clearancing I could do, but got a few other ideas. I need to see if the piston can retract any more, if so I could probably shim the outer brake pad which will move the whole caliper out. I could also maybe put a thin wheel spacer plate behind the rotor and shim the caliper bracket out more.

 

[Broski]

Nice work !
The way those control arms look I would be checking the bushings