A couple of teeth should not matter too much, but if you want to be SURE that there are no obstructions, turn the motor over by hand once you have it timed. You may still have to adjust the IP slightly to fine tune it.
Build TDI-J70 - LJ70 TDI Swap (Erika)
- Thread starter DirtSniffer
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #102
It actually was off enough to have valve interference. Was able to get them all timed correctly individually after I removed the belt, did 2 full rotations after finishing the belt to confirm for sure. I actually checked the next day and saw the tick mark on the harmonic balancer was slightly off, so I broke the cam cog loose and made the slight adjustment and feel good about it now. Will have to figure out VCDS when I get it running, but should be close enough for test firing with the IP timing adjustment bolts centered.
- Thread starter
- #103
Since I'm here, motor mounts, oil filter housing and vacuum pump are on. I didn't realize the new coolant head used a longer bolt on one side, so will have to pick one up. Coolant temp sensor also uses a smaller retaining clip apparently. Was going to put the clutch fork and clutch release bearing on today but found the bearing was a little gritty. Was going to just run it as it only had like 20k miles, but it was also pretty dirty. Ordered a new one along with a new clutch fork and slave.
Got the tcase output shaft assembled, will be picking up a fresh argon tank tomorrow and start practicing on some aluminum to prep for clearancing the rear tcase housing. Really looking forward to having this engine back in soon...
Got the tcase output shaft assembled, will be picking up a fresh argon tank tomorrow and start practicing on some aluminum to prep for clearancing the rear tcase housing. Really looking forward to having this engine back in soon...
- Thread starter
- #104
I think a 22R-E valve cover makes the perfect practice piece. Lol. First time doing aluminum, and haven't touched the tig in over a year. Little more practice tomorrow and I think I'll be good enough for what the tcase needs...
- Thread starter
- #105
Another day, another setback. Built up the necessary spots on the rear split case housing yesterday and clearanced for the new low speed and idler gears today. Was hoping to slap it back together, but could not find the spacer that goes between the idler shaft bearings. I don't recall seeing it, and looked everywhere for it... Either I somehow lost it, or it got missed. I at least have everything I need to put the rear axle back together, that will be tomorrow's project.
- Thread starter
- #106
Rear mostly put together. Need to do brake lines and bump stops still. Will be borrowing an 80 alloy spare to test fit, if those fit I am getting a set and some 265/75r16 milestar patagonias I think.
Sounds like my project, too! Mostly having issues with parts orders arriving, complete and undamaged. My current success rate is sitting just shy of 80% over the past 20 orders: one lost in the mail, one damaged on arrival, one with the wrong parts and one missing a bunch of items. Every weekend that comes along I discover I'm short one or two items to be able to finish any given task on the Prado.
- Thread starter
- #108
Split case assembled, trans bolted up. Just about ready to drop back in tomorrow I think.
The tcase lever is now too close to the shifter since it is moved forward. Will see about lengthening the hi/lo arm to move it over. Never looked too closely, it the one pic I have of the original setup they did look pretty close too. Will see how they fit once everything is in. I have Also deleted the shift gate for 2 low.
As I am writing this through, I realize the inside shifter bushing is not fully seated and that I had to back off the nut in order for it to shift between 2/4. I am wondering if the old G52 shifter stud pedestal stuck out a bit more, which would also explain the shifter interference with the trans shifter. I'll try stacking some washers to space it out some more. Unfortunately (but actually fortunately...) the G52 and 2L are on their way to their new owner in Indiana, so can't check.
One other thing I have found is a mystery plug on in the trans wiring harness. I can not for the life of me figure out what it was for. Only switches are the reverse and 4x4 switches, and those are accounted for. Don't see a parking brake switch or any other plug hanging underneath the 70, and don't remember unplugging anything from it... Wonder if it was never used, but I'd expect it to be dirtier.
The tcase lever is now too close to the shifter since it is moved forward. Will see about lengthening the hi/lo arm to move it over. Never looked too closely, it the one pic I have of the original setup they did look pretty close too. Will see how they fit once everything is in. I have Also deleted the shift gate for 2 low.
As I am writing this through, I realize the inside shifter bushing is not fully seated and that I had to back off the nut in order for it to shift between 2/4. I am wondering if the old G52 shifter stud pedestal stuck out a bit more, which would also explain the shifter interference with the trans shifter. I'll try stacking some washers to space it out some more. Unfortunately (but actually fortunately...) the G52 and 2L are on their way to their new owner in Indiana, so can't check.
One other thing I have found is a mystery plug on in the trans wiring harness. I can not for the life of me figure out what it was for. Only switches are the reverse and 4x4 switches, and those are accounted for. Don't see a parking brake switch or any other plug hanging underneath the 70, and don't remember unplugging anything from it... Wonder if it was never used, but I'd expect it to be dirtier.
- Thread starter
- #110
You would maybe think so but there is no switch for it.
- Thread starter
- #111
Looking though wiring diagrams and plugs, there does appear to be for an L4 indicator switch provision in some 70s. The mystery plug looks to match the L4 switch 8422260041. But, I can't find any pictures of any split cases with the switch. I imagine it would replace the plug on the rear of the hi/lo shift fork shaft on the rear of the case. I'm going to assume it's an unused plug for now.
- Thread starter
- #114
Maybe for the auto versions or something.
- Thread starter
- #116
Yes. But the autos may have needed a L4 signal to shift correctly like the Nag1.
Vacuum actuated transfer case models used the low range detection switch to automatically engage the front drive when low range was selected.
- Thread starter
- #118
Ah, that would explain it. Where is the switch though? I couldn't see it on yours
IIRC the switch is near the shift lever on the transfer case, I know I’ve posted a photo of the different transfer case switches with labels but the search is only giving me one result right now so I can’t find it.
- Thread starter
- #120
I think the search function is having issues right now. Either way, I think I've confirmed it to be unused for me. Excited to drop it in tonight!