- Thread starter
- #141
Bushings and shocks are on the list... Lower priority though. Hopefully fine for this year though. She's a bit crusty.
Build TDI-J70 - LJ70 TDI Swap (Erika)
- Thread starter DirtSniffer
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Dan will just wait until they fail, so chris and I can tack an extra six hours onto our road trip chasing down a solution....
- Thread starter
- #145
This thing is interesting, front end is just like a narrowed 80 but instead of an eye bushing at the frame it's a through bolt bushing which would allow the arm to rotate and in theory not bind as much. Rear is the exact same setup flipped around... Kinda weird but I like it. May need to add sway bars eventually.They actually flex better with worn out bushings
Picture please, I can't visualize it unless its like an early Bronco setup at the frame. I knew LJ have control arms F&R but I though they were similar to the 80.
Similar setup to the suspension in my old W460 G-Wagen, and I believe the Land Rover Defender was similar too.
IMO there all copies of the the 1966 ford Broncos design coil Springs with control arms. It was revolutionary at the time.
- Thread starter
- #149
Yep that's how the early Bronco's are on the frame side
- Thread starter
- #151
Popped off the actuator backing, there really isn't much clearancing available here as the cover is very tight to the inner gear case.
Right now I am looking at simply slicing off the end of the bushing mount, I think this should be fine as the bushing sleeve is inside the area that the nut covers.
Right now I am looking at simply slicing off the end of the bushing mount, I think this should be fine as the bushing sleeve is inside the area that the nut covers.
- Thread starter
- #152
Fuel lines ran, need some clamps still. I am going to reuse the lift pump it had when I got it, replaced the filter though.
Also have the rad hoses mostly ran. Need to get the inline temp sensor fan controller yet before tying in to the top rad. Steam vent line is silicone, supposed to be ok for high temp but will have to see. I'd at least like to watch the bubbles when burping it for the first time. The portion coming off the side of the engine was cut off the end of the top hose running to the top rads inlet, will add a barbed 90 and tie in to the hose running underneath. Top hose does run over the oil filter cap, but there will be enough flex to push it out of the way for filter changes. Will need to make a bracket for it somewhere so it doesn't rub on the injection pump.
Also have the rad hoses mostly ran. Need to get the inline temp sensor fan controller yet before tying in to the top rad. Steam vent line is silicone, supposed to be ok for high temp but will have to see. I'd at least like to watch the bubbles when burping it for the first time. The portion coming off the side of the engine was cut off the end of the top hose running to the top rads inlet, will add a barbed 90 and tie in to the hose running underneath. Top hose does run over the oil filter cap, but there will be enough flex to push it out of the way for filter changes. Will need to make a bracket for it somewhere so it doesn't rub on the injection pump.
- Thread starter
- #153
Smokin' meat and wrenching on the cruiser. Doesn't get much better. Except for maybe driving it...
I made the cut to the radius arm mounts, and clearance still wasn't to my liking. So, I have decided to delete the outer actuator shell cover seeing as the inner one already seals up the gears and whatnot. I will be filling up the rest of the area around the inner cover with either epoxy or black hot glue or something. But now there is plenty of clearance for the caliper to slide back and room for a good amount of brake wear. May not be able to get the full life of the pads before it hits the radius arm, but the pads are cheap and the old ones had barely any wear after 30k miles.
While working on the brakes, noticed this little sh!t making a nest in the quarter panel vent.
I made the cut to the radius arm mounts, and clearance still wasn't to my liking. So, I have decided to delete the outer actuator shell cover seeing as the inner one already seals up the gears and whatnot. I will be filling up the rest of the area around the inner cover with either epoxy or black hot glue or something. But now there is plenty of clearance for the caliper to slide back and room for a good amount of brake wear. May not be able to get the full life of the pads before it hits the radius arm, but the pads are cheap and the old ones had barely any wear after 30k miles.
While working on the brakes, noticed this little sh!t making a nest in the quarter panel vent.
- Thread starter
- #154
I'm diving into wiring and de-looming the engine bay now, just popped off the fuse box cover and thought this was cool. Hand translations to German.
- Thread starter
- #156
On the rear I'd bet it would be ok. May get soft, but probably not hot enough to flow and goop off. Wouldn't hurt to try it first.
- Thread starter
- #157
Intercooler showed up yesterday for some reason, sorry FedEx guy.
Got it mounted up and started clearancing the core support for elbows. Will be ordering stuff to complete the intake soon.
I had to re-solder the top of one radiator bracket as it had broken off, I didn't realize until after I had it back in that I had got it a bit too hot and melted out some of the solder holding the top of the radiator on... Will have to fix that later. Or, just dump a bunch of solder in and pray. I'll eventually have this rad rebuilt.
More de-looming. I can delete both of the original glow plug relays and wiring for the dash light, TDI harness has its own relay and light output wire. Blue plug was for the original engine harness, it will probably be easier to delete this and wire everything up at the dash since I'll be in there anyways and the new harness will be run there. Not sure yet what that jumper wire to the trans harness plug is for yet though . Starter wire there has a wire from what I believe is the 12v glow plug relay, but it's capped off. Not sure why, but it's getting torn out. Only thing left from this set of wires should be the trans harness and single starter solenoid wire.
Got it mounted up and started clearancing the core support for elbows. Will be ordering stuff to complete the intake soon.
I had to re-solder the top of one radiator bracket as it had broken off, I didn't realize until after I had it back in that I had got it a bit too hot and melted out some of the solder holding the top of the radiator on... Will have to fix that later. Or, just dump a bunch of solder in and pray. I'll eventually have this rad rebuilt.
More de-looming. I can delete both of the original glow plug relays and wiring for the dash light, TDI harness has its own relay and light output wire. Blue plug was for the original engine harness, it will probably be easier to delete this and wire everything up at the dash since I'll be in there anyways and the new harness will be run there. Not sure yet what that jumper wire to the trans harness plug is for yet though . Starter wire there has a wire from what I believe is the 12v glow plug relay, but it's capped off. Not sure why, but it's getting torn out. Only thing left from this set of wires should be the trans harness and single starter solenoid wire.
- Thread starter
- #158
The mud daubers are hard at work
- Thread starter
- #159
IH8Wiring
Filled the outside of the actuators with black hot glue and put the brakes together for good. Hopefully. I ran wires for them this weekend, got them cut to length and loomed tonight. Only thing left now is hooking up to the battery. Switches fit perfect in this dash switch spot, but unfortunately mine is broken. Will live with it for now, pretty sure I can get a replacement dash cover. I did test them out off a jump pack, these parking brakes are pretty sweet!
Also cut off that engine harness plug and pulled the wires through, should only need a few to tap in to with the new harness for dash readouts.
Filled the outside of the actuators with black hot glue and put the brakes together for good. Hopefully. I ran wires for them this weekend, got them cut to length and loomed tonight. Only thing left now is hooking up to the battery. Switches fit perfect in this dash switch spot, but unfortunately mine is broken. Will live with it for now, pretty sure I can get a replacement dash cover. I did test them out off a jump pack, these parking brakes are pretty sweet!
Also cut off that engine harness plug and pulled the wires through, should only need a few to tap in to with the new harness for dash readouts.
What will you do with the deleted harness? At least safe the plugs: They are scarce.
Cheers Ralf