Strongest Front Bumper

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when I made a bumper for the 80, I opted to mount it onto the stock bumper mounts instead of directly onto the frame for the exact reasons mentioned above. I've yet to see how it crumples (knock on wood) but it's good peace of mind to know that I've still got a bit of crumple, even if the bumper is stronger than stock.
 
60 toy ota said:
when I made a bumper for the 80, I opted to mount it onto the stock bumper mounts instead of directly onto the frame for the exact reasons mentioned above. I've yet to see how it crumples (knock on wood) but it's good peace of mind to know that I've still got a bit of crumple, even if the bumper is stronger than stock.
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That's a good point. Do the ARB/4Plus/TrailTailor bumpers mount to the existing bumper holes? Any that are strictly welded to the frame?
 
FishTown said:
That's a good point. Do the ARB/4Plus/TrailTailor bumpers mount to the existing bumper holes? Any that are strictly welded to the frame?
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Typically the bumper horn rivets are cut off, horns removed, then bumper is bolted directly to the frame rail after opening up the rivet holes. It is atypical (and generally not recommended other than for a dedicated rock crawling rig) to weld bumpers directly to the frame.
 
I feel that sliders would help in the instance of being t-boned. I was t-boned once when I was driving my Mom's then 2003 Honda Element with side steps, in addition to that the rigid back door/ B-pillar probably saved my butt.

The ARB has 'adapters' that mount to the frame and stock bumper horns. Then the bumper attaches to those adapters. This is how you can adjust the height. It is meant for trucks with body lift, but can be used to get the bumper higher. I run at the lowest setting which ARB recommends for a vehicle with no body lift.
 
Ah your life is gonna change. Any of the bumpers made by the vendors here will kill anything they hit.
But you are a new Dad, you're going to drive so slow and carefully I don't expect it to be an issue if you are
like any other Dad. You care, you'll be careful. That's what matters. Don't fret the boogeyman. Save that for
nighttime monsters under the bed.
 
FishTown said:
Wow, really?? I had no idea!

Sorry for the sarcasm... I could absolutely go and sell my beloved FJ60 and buy something newer, but that's not on the radar for me. My wife's 4Runner will be the primary transportation for our kids, but I will do whatever I can to make the 60 as safe as it can be. And a heftier front bumper will help me out with that.
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I had to throw that out there. And I'd also probably have the same response as you.
 
Fish...

Thanks to any/all that recommended me!... BUT, I'm currently not making any 60 front bumpers. IMO, If your are NOT going to wheel your rig AND want to look like everyone else.... ARB ( Another Raped Buyer ) is your guy for a quick turnaround. The ARB's are notorious for the wings buckling on a slight collision or rock rub.... DO A SEARCH...

"engineered crumple zone" = complete loss of bumper AND loss of ALL safety components = $$$$$$$ all the way around. Just more money for the mfg and body shops. On newer vehicles the body is STILL damaged as well a majority of the time.

I'd highly recommend a 4Plus Products front bumper from @lcwizard over ANY ARB model ANY day of the week.

Jason
 
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so it's the general consensus having a bumper as hard as rock its better than having one that can absorb some of the impact forces involved in a event ?
 
This is a simple physics question. Velocity is what causes the most damage to human occupants. You don't really have to come in contact with anything solid to suffer severe injuries.

In the case of a head on collision, your velocity goes from upwards of 65 miles per hour, to zero almost instantaneously. It doesn't matter what bumper you have, it's very hard to survive that sudden drop in velocity.

Adding a sturdy front bumper, bolted directly to the frame, does more to increase your total velocity by taking away the vehicles natural tendency to crumple and absorb energy. Even though modern cars are engineered to maximize the crumple zone and absorb more energy than ever before, classic cars still crumple and absorb energy.

ARB bumpers are designed more to protect your truck in lower speed collisions than anything else. There's a reason they are not safety tested. You're better off without them. But they sure do look cool!

As someone already said, the better money would be spent on modernizing your braking system and updating your seat belts Nick. Also, good tires and a complete inspection of your suspension and steering system to improve your cruiser's handling is the way to go.

All and all, don't worry too much, when we were growing up, we'd sleep in the back window well on road trips. We never used seat belts, and we still survived. It's like my grandpa once said to me when I told him about my fear of flying... He said "if it's your time to go, it's just your time". Enjoy the ride my friend and congratulations to you and your growing family!

PS. What if it's the pilot's time to go?
 
ARB has invested heavily into crash testing...air bag compatible on vehicles with them.
 
Haggis said:
ARB has invested heavily into crash testing...air bag compatible on vehicles with them.
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Yep... I should have clarified that I was referring to pre-airbag era trucks. Bumpers designed for modern trucks are designed to not impede safety equipment and impact sensors. Good call.
 
Sorry to derail a thread on bumpers, but make sure the seat belt you use for the car seat will stay tight. You will also want shoulder belts when your child moves to a booster seat. Think about safely upgrading old seatbelts as well as the bumper.
 
Arb in my opinion are the best for a collision. They are designed to absorb impact. I've seen them after a collision bent up and mangled. Strap the arb to a tree and back the truck up-bumper bends back well enough to get you home. They are used in Australia where people hit kangaroos and stuff flying through the outback. They are not the best rock crawling bumper, but for safety that's the best.
 
Tapage said:
so it's the general consensus having a bumper as hard as rock its better than having one that can absorb some of the impact forces involved in a event ?
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No, it's not the general consensus. Responses have been mixed with valid points in several directions.

A completely rigid bumper will protect your sheet metal at low speeds; i.e. rock crawling and parking lots. At a medium speed survivable crash, rigidity will transfer damage to your frame, bending it instead of deforming a cheap bumper, which could be unbolted and replaced. At high speeds a rigid bumper will help keep the passenger area intact (good) but will transfer the kinetic energy directly passengers rather than absorbing some of the energy itself (bad).

How occupants would fair in a crash greatly depends on what object is hit. In a head on with a Prius, a massive, heavy bumper would force the Prius absorb the hit. This is one of the reasons regulators want to outlaw lifting and modifying trucks. It tends to kill the Smugs.

Against a full size pick up, semi, or tree, where the Cruiser wouldn't climb over the other obstacle to slow the impact, I would want a bumper that would crumple and would cause my frame to crumple.

Sometimes a less rigid, sacrificial bumper is better. The best choice depends on where the most driving will be done. In this case, the OP mentioned daily driving, sometimes with his newborn in the back seat.
 
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@Juggernaught I mostly agree with everything but this " At medium speeds it will transfer damage to your frame, bending it instead of a cheap bumper you could have unbolted and replaced ". A stronger bumper tends to keep the frame intact. The 40 series are the easiest to see the results. The frame extends over a foot from the first cross support. The factory channel is quite thin. If you've ever center punched a 40 bumper
on a rock or tree you know they bend quite easily. When they do they bend one or both frame rails inward at the radiator support. Just as common, people will wrap a chain or strap around the center of the channel in an attempt to recover a stuck vehicle. They give a few hard tugs and the channel buckles and the frame bends.
The thing is, crumple zones are designed throughout a vehicle as a whole. You can't take a 64 impala and bolt on a bumper and make it safe by 2016 crash standards.
In an FJ60, if you hit a cement truck head on, no matter what bumper, stock,ARB, mine or any other, you will lose.
Cement trucks don't need crumple zones.
You hit a Smart Car, or a Kia Rio, no matter what bumper, you'll win. The difference will be whether you drive your truck from the accident or tow it. I'll stick with the most indestructible design. I'm 58 and never been in a serious accident other than multiple rolls competing or just playing.
All my truck damage is a result of hitting immovable objects like rocks. Without armor I don't think I've ever owned a Cruiser that could still be driven after two years without a whole lot of repair.
Head ons don't comprise a majority of accidents and a vast majority of head ons are on two lane undivided roads where failed passing attempts come into play. Being vigilant in these conditions would probably be the best approach to surviving a head on. I' doubt any bumper will make a lot of difference if the object coming at you at 75 mph is of equal or more mass. Hopefully the owners of the oncoming vehicle dwelled on the same fears and bought the car with the most crumple and you've installed enough lift to clear most of the parts that don't
 
4Plus makes a great bumper I have seen one in person and liked it, however here in NOVA Deer are a problem. I bought an ARB. Immediately after it shipped i was informed 4Plus has a second model that they can make. Had I known that I would have bought it. But the ARB is paid for and done.

The stock bumper is not much and hitting say a deer (or a cow in someone's case) did so much damage, Bumper, fender, hood, grill support, etc. that it was a writeoff.

Something more stout is needed for sure.

I have hit rocks, trees, small creatures with an ARB on a Cherokee and no damage to it or the rig. However I see what lcwizard is talking about. It is solid at the frame rails and they will buckle if hit hard enough. Hitting one on a rock doing 5-10MPH is not much. Hitting one at 50MPG your going to leave a dent.

I am less concerned on front end collision as I would be rear ended or t-boned.
Years ago my mother was hit square on the B pillar by a dump truck Her Volkswagen Jetta. The car was totaled, she survived.
 
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