Builds SLOW 71 (1 Viewer)

[npulver]

Awesome product endorsement! I've been wanting to find a synthetic grease to keep around the garage, as i hate using bearing grease on everything (plus some rubbers really dont like bearing grease.

Is this "Super Lube" rubber safe?

 

[scrapdaddy]

From the can...Will not harm fabric, rubber, leather, plastic, wood, or paint. Excellant dielectric and outlasts conventional lubs. 50-100%

Can says, you can use for wheel bearings, too. I never used it for that.

Comes in a smaller tube, also. Handy to have laying around.

 

[npulver]

Awesome, thanks for the info Ron!

 

[scrapdaddy]

I've been slacking off, trying to get some hay baled up. Playing with little stuff at night. All pieces are cad. plated and a new cable. The ends are alittle different, but workable.

Grease everything with super lube and it's smooth sliding!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Here's the cable ends.

 

[PabloCruise]

Where did you get new cable?

 

[scrapdaddy]

Pablo,

A place called Custom Control Cables. $30.00 plus shipping.

 

[PabloCruise]

Gracias! Perhaps they can make us our parking brake cables for the folks who delete the t-case mounted brake and go out to the rear wheels.

 

[tucker74]

Gracias! Perhaps they can make us our parking brake cables for the folks who delete the t-case mounted brake and go out to the rear wheels.

These guys can do that, need to have one made soon ...

http://www.push-pull.com/

Tucker

 

[tucker74]

I've been slacking off, trying to get some hay baled up. Playing with little stuff at night. All pieces are cad. plated and a new cable. The ends are alittle different, but workable.

Grease everything with super lube and it's smooth sliding!

Holy crap ... you telling me those weren't concave from the factory? Every one I've ever seen is . Kidding aside, those look sweet! Where you getting the cad plating done?

Tucker

 

[scrapdaddy]

Tucker,

Just alittle plating company in the town down the road. They give me a good deal with cash.

 

[PabloCruise]

These guys can do that, need to have one made soon ...

http://www.push-pull.com/

Tucker

Thanks Mate!

 

[badsamaritan]

Hey Ron,

Great thread! I finally got a chance to sit down and go through it and your 55 looks great. Thanks for stopping in on my thread and checking it out. I am really curious as to what you do for your gas pedal. I really think I could have done a better job with mine, but couldn't find much in the way of inspiration on the web.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Badsamaritan,

Here is one of many, of my go to threads. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=4106106&postcount=231

I'll have to do something like this. I haven't given it too much thought, yet, so many other things to lay awake at night, thinking about.

I'm glad you're enjoying the build, there's alot of good ones going on down here.

 

[npulver]

Im assuming you guys are talking about to accommodate the drive by wire system? I know in my race days we usually swapped out throttle bodies to an older style to accept a throttle cable. Always an option. (i personally hate the though of losing my throttle because of a sensor.)

 

[scrapdaddy]

Npulver,

Yes we are. Myself, I'm useing the gas pedal from the Silverado, from which the motor came. It has to be cut up and made straight in order to clear the hump.

I never used a drive by wire before. I'm alittle apprehensive about it, but don't feel like changing everything out and getting the computer redone, before I give it a try. Alot of vehicles use it these days, so can't be too bad.

We'll see, Ron

 

[badsamaritan]

Scrapdaddy

Thanks for the link, I still have my Silverado pedal I'll see what I have room for. I have an Ididit tilt column and the column base is pretty big takes up a lot of prime real estate in the foot well.


Npulver,

I bought a C5 corvette pedal as it was slimmer and a bit more compact design. I just swapped out the APP sensor to the one from the donor vehicle.

I looked into swapping to a cable system and decided it was cost prohibitive. It required a new computer, tune, harness, and throttle body. The business I bought my engine from estimated $800 to $1000 for the change.

So far the drive by wire setup is working great, but I only have about 20 miles on it.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Summer is here and that means Hay Time, so not alot happening in the shop. I wanted to post these pictures of the cleaned up rear window gear. I really think all the dirt and old grease caked up on all the parts, help to break that plastic gear.

I've cleaned and media blasted everything in the tailgate, off to the platers for some cad. plating and alittle Super Lube, before it all goes back in. Thankfully, I have another tailgate, so I can see how everything hooks up. Alot going on in there.

Just having it clean, makes everything work so smooth. Day and night difference. Can't wait to try with it wired up.

Some good news, I got the body mounted on the frame, hopefully for the last time. If it rains, I'll mount the doghouse and start on the interior.

All I got!

 

[Delancy]

-Edited-

I'll preface with apology for thread diversion of this magnitude, but offer a consolatory prize in the fact that, when asked my overall plan or goal for fit and finish, I've maintained a "scrapdaddy's footsteps" reply, knowing full well that it's a goal and I'm incapable of filling the shoes.

That said, I've been through numerous times, saving tidbits here and there, but in trying to have a definitive outline, perused once more and have a few questions and clarification requests.

First questions, unrelated to body coating procedures.

Did you transfer the fish plating from the frame rail to flats and cut, or was it cut from CAD file?

(Believe I know answer, but having seen several renditions of finished and fc187's, just curious if I missed something on it, somewhere)

How'd you clean or remove scale (haha. In my case, that's an understatement) from the inside of the frame rails?

**Frame and Chassis Coating Procedure**
1. Bare Metal
2. Eastwood Internal Frame Coating
3. Chassis Saver

Regarding panel coating procession, seek clarification after combining many posts in the thread, more a review of what I've compiled of your method.

**Underbelly and all Inner Fenders**

1. Taken to bare metal
2. Rust Encapsulator in crevices
3. Internal Frame Coating in crevice
3. Zero Rust
4. Lizard Skin Deadener X 2
5. Lizard Skin Ceramic X 2
6. Monstaliner X 4

**Roof Bottom**
1. Painted Metal
2. Seam Seal Roof to Support (?)
3. Zero Rust
4. Lizard Skin Deadener X 2
5. Lizard Skin Ceramic X 2
6. Monstaliner X5 Cygnus White

**Inside Doors**
1. Painted Metal
2. Lizard Skin X 2 only (?)
No Ceramic

**Inside Tailgate**
1. Painted Metal
2. Internal Frame Coating at bottom
3. Lizard Skin Deadener X2 No Ceramic

**Firewall**
1. Bare Metal
2. Fill unused penetrations
3. Rustoleum Primer
4. Lizard Skin Deadener X2
5. Lizard Skin Ceramic X2
6. Spray Bombed Cygnus White

**Hood Bottom**
1. Painted Metal
2. Internal Coating at front
3. Seam Sealer
4. Lizard Skin Deadener X2
5. Lizard Skin Ceramic X2
6. ???

**Engine Bay Side of Clip**
1. Bare Metal
2. Rustoleum Primer
3. Lizard Skin Deadener X2
4. Spray bombed Cygnus White rattle can
5. Cygnus White Monstaliner X2

**Internal Door Mechanicals**
1. Bare Metal
2. Cadmium Plated

Think that's as far as you've progressed or updated, thus far.

The "Painted Metal" is your starting point. Assuming the PO had stripped and painted, or that a bare metal start may be required for myself.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Delancy,

WOW! I had to take notes. I'll try to answer them all, that are different than what you posted.

On the fish plates--old school. I used poster board and traced the frame, then transfered to metal and cut with the torch. Should of had a few more beers, before cutting, alittle shaky.

On the frame, it was sandblasted as well as could be, then I sprayed internal frame coating by Eastwood, inside every hole and opening while flipping and turning the frame. I did this on several occasions, to make sure it was totally coated. Finished with the paint.

On the underbelly of the body, as you said, but more like 4 coats of Monstaliner. I had extra when I painted the doghouse, so it got a couple more layers. It turned out great.

On the firewall, after patching holes it was sanded down to bare metal, no sandblasting though and painted with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. Not sure why I did that, no Zero Rust on hand and I like the primer, so. After all the Lizard Skin and Monstaliner, I spray bombed the firewall with Cygnus White. Very hard to cover black with the white.

On the doghouse, it was sandblasted then Zero Rust, then same as the firewall.

On the body, it was sandblasted on the outside by the PO. This is the only part, I wish I could do over, just so I know, what's what. It is going to the body shop to be reworked.

I'm getting ready to start on the inside of the body. It will get the full treatment, also.

I've been trying to do everything I can think of, to stop rust for awhile. As you know it will return, but I'm making it hard on it.

I highly recommend the Lizard Skin for sound deadening, you can tap any panel on the truck and get a big DUD, no ringing hollow sound. I hope the Ceramic Insulation works on the heat, the same way. We'll see.

I don't know if this was the right or wrong way to do these things, but it's what I came up with and I'm having fun along the way.