Builds Saved from scrap - '97 LX450 build thread (3 Viewers)

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Willie G said:
Since I can't see an oil pan between the front tires, I'm guessing the engine swap hasn't happened yet?
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Engine and transmission are sitting at Torfab, along with the front drive and adapters. Swap is still planned to commence some time in January.

Tinkertoy said:
Are you going to put slackers behind those wheels? I think you won’t get that center caps on otherwise.

and it looks great. It’s making me want to tear mine down. But I am still putting a list together of what I want to do.
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Center caps fit both front and rear when I added spacers yesterday.

PXL_20201227_203707520.jpg
 
Surface mount hitch is on. Perfect fit on the frame holes. The pintle is way heavier than the frame is rated for, but I have it as a tow point for convenience, not pulling a big trailer or taking a ton of tongue load so I don't think there will be a problem. There's about 1/16" between the frame rail before it bumps in to the DVS rear bumper if there is any deformation or spring ... and I don't think the DVS bumper is going anywhere ever.

PXL_20210321_170724849.jpg

PXL_20210321_171702535.jpg

PXL_20210321_171722201.jpg
 
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Bolted all of the DVS accessories to the rear swing outs today. Everything fit better than expected and actually preserved view of my license plate, even with a 37" spare mounted. Pretty impressed.

PXL_20210321_190622422.MP.jpg

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Slee DC front drive shaft and a rebuilt and balanced rear both back on the truck. Man the nuts are a pain on the transfer case end with the DC - absolutely no room to get a wrench or socket on them for most of the shaft's rotation. I'm sure R&Ring that on a trail is going to be fun at some point in the (hopefully distant) future.

PXL_20210321_155203226.jpg
 
That is an impressive build you have going there. I can't wait to see the motor and trans go in and see some trail photos. I love the DVS bumpers and the 37s, the rig looks awesome. :cheers::popcorn:
 
Love the bumpers & the save story esp.




-Open question as I don’t do it myself-

Is there a good reason to leave shackles in the eyes?

-I always thought it just ate out the eyes screwed the bumper finish & made annoying ”ka-thump” sounds on trails - but I’m seeing it alot nowdays so I’m curious if I :::missed the boat::: -on a good reason here.

Not to mention good shackles are still ~IDK how much as I went all synth for the Tundra & boat/quads, but I still keep a hard shackle in both rigs & boat for a tree/tow/anchor -strap.

:meh:
 
LINUS said:
Love the bumpers & the save story esp.




-Open question as I don’t do it myself-

Is there a good reason to leave shackles in the eyes?

-I always thought it just ate out the eyes screwed the bumper finish & made annoying ”ka-thump” sounds on trails - but I’m seeing it alot nowdays so I’m curious if I :::missed the boat::: -on a good reason here.

Not to mention good shackles are still ~IDK how much as I went all synth for the Tundra & boat/quads, but I still keep a hard shackle in both rigs & boat for a tree/tow/anchor -strap.

:meh:
Click to expand...
I never used to leave mine in, but now with the isolators that seem to come with pretty well every shackle they no longer thump and bang when you're driving or beat up the bumper finish. I figure this way it's one less thing to find a storage spot for.
 
Feldrian said:
I never used to leave mine in, but now with the isolators that seem to come with pretty well every shackle they no longer thump and bang when you're driving or beat up the bumper finish. I figure this way it's one less thing to find a storage spot for.
Click to expand...
I don't have a great amount of experience with this as the 80 is the first vehicle I've had armor on. But I have isolators on the shackles on my bumpers and I never hear any noise from them. Without the isolators I probably wouldn't carry them this way because they would vibrate and clank against the bumpers all the time.
 
Feldrian said:
Grabbed some pictures while the sun was out.
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Looks good, you doing a body also? Just sitting on 3”right?
Also any rub on the inner front fender when turning? Should get my delta 4” any day and wondering if that slight extended length gave you enough clearance.
 
on the rocks said:
Looks good, you doing a body also? Just sitting on 3”right?
Also any rub on the inner front fender when turning? Should get my delta 4” any day and wondering if that slight extended length gave you enough clearance.
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Sitting on 4" total suspension lift. No body and no plan for body.

The Icon dual rate springs I have currently sag on the driver's side - Over an inch after the 1/2" spacers for the driver's side. Tire is touching the rear of the inner front fender when turning on the driver's side only (with no articulation). Obviously looking at new springs, but will also assess trimming the rear inner of the front fender. I wanted to avoid trimming, but I guess that's the price I have to pay for being all excited about 37s. Planning to figure out the replacement springs after the new engine is in, since the swap will take some weight off the front axle.

@torfab 's truck is sitting on the same size tires with slightly less lift and the same size wheel spacers. I'll have to ask if he had to trim. I didn't notice anything obvious last time I looked. Might also be a factor of the big shoulder lugs on the MT/Rs. Looks like @Box Rocket has a similar set up as well and I remember his build thread mentioning minor trimming.

I'd thought the 4" Delta arms might help with the front corner as well and originally thought they were about an inch longer. Measuring compared to stock it doesn't seem to be that big of a difference. Assuming @Delta VS can fill us in. Certainly looks like there is room to move the axle forwards from a bodywork perspective but I'm also assuming that'll start screwing all kinds of other things up like drag link, panhard, shock angle and spring binding. The DVS guys seem pretty switched on when it comes to that stuff ... and have way more engineering degrees than I do.
 
Gotcha, sorry I thought 3” was mentioned for some reason and hard to tell in pictures. I think the 4” is extended like .24”. He recently cleared this up here. They are considering an extended 4” arm for 37’s tho.
 
Keep in mind the Delta arms are adding length to correct the axle location to essentially the stock location prior to lift. You might get a slight increase in wheelbase from their arms. Regardless of the arms used the priority should be to keep the coil straight or as close to it as possible. This will keep the coil from banana-ing when the suspension cycles and making contact with the bumpstops or the frame in extreme cases. Dave and crew at Delta are a great resource and can definitely give you good info and recommendations.

In my own truck I moved the axle forward 1.25" by relocating the rear radius arm bolt in the factory bracket. IMO 1.25" is the farthest I would recommend moving the axle. I think it's possible to go as far as 1.5" but I'm very comfortable with the location of mine and the springs appear to be very straight at ride height and also at full droop. There is also adequate clearance with the panhard and draglink and no binding of any links or the springs. The improved clearance at the rear part of the front fender is significant. However, moving the axle as far as I did introduced the need to trim some of the forward part of the inner fender (directly below the battery tray). I used some rubber mat to form a new "inner fender" in the area that had been trimmed away. So keep that area in mind if you decide to move the axle farther.

here's a shot showing how straight my front coils are at nearly full droop after relocating the axle. The slightest of rearward bend at full droop.
Stage5 Slinky by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

At ride height the spring is straight and in line (perpendicular) to the coil bucket.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

I did trim the inner part of the flares some, as well as a about a 1.5" long section (about .5" wide) of the sheetmetal at the very front of the wheel arch so the tire would clear at full stuff and full steering lock.

I can't forget.....your truck is looking awesome! Very clean and well sorted!
 
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I don't think I want to mess with moving the axle forwards. As soon as I go down that path I'm going to want to relocate spring buckets and then have to mess with steering geometry and the panhard ... and then that rabbit hole will lead me to slinging tons and coil overs under the truck because "why not". I'm weak. I can't help myself. I have to remind myself constantly that this thing is supposed to be an overlander and not a trail rig/ buggy project.

I guess I'll build the buggy next.
 
Feldrian said:
I don't think I want to mess with moving the axle forwards. As soon as I go down that path I'm going to want to relocate spring buckets and then have to mess with steering geometry and the panhard ... and then that rabbit hole will lead me to slinging tons and coil overs under the truck because "why not". I'm weak. I can't help myself. I have to remind myself constantly that this thing is supposed to be an overlander and not a trail rig/ buggy project.

I guess I'll build the buggy next.
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Meh. Moving the axle doesn't lead to moving coil buckets or messing with steering geometry or panhards etc unless you want to move the axle 2" or farther. But it seems to me you're well on your way to a buggy without any help from me and suggesting moving the axle. :)
 
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