Right tire sizes for OME 2.5" lift?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Just put a new set of cooper STT Pro 285/75/16 on. About 2" lift. OME 861/862 plus 40mm spring spacers all round. Probably about the same lift, maybe a little lower as a 850/860 but i like the rate better on the 861/862. Honestly i feel more limited by the CG than ground clearance on the trail. After being out on a few trails over the last few months i am happy on 33" and have no interest in 35 at this time.

But i also have slider, skid plate, Slee elocker guard and Slee rear trailing arms. So many parts can handle "a little bump". But i still try to be easy on stuff.
 
I'm on 35" 's 2.5" OME lift, I think they look just right for my taste. I do get some minor rubbing on full flex on the rear axle and inside wheel well. But nothing to worry about I can see the rubbing, but in 4 years, it has not rubbed the paint off yet, so no biggie. (You are usually going slow when on full flex)
 
Here are my observations

I have a '93 running with 850j/863 combo with the OME long shocks N71l. I also have a 3" drop brackets from Man-a-Fre.
Tires are 305 70 16. This was a great set up, except I had driveline vibrations when coasting.. or when approaching a stop. So i remedied this with DC driveshaft for the front. this helped alot. I held back on going to 315 thinking it might be slower of the line , highway passes and vibrations might get worse.

Well a month ago, I got a great deal on CL on a used set of 315 Toyo muds. Well this weekend I went for it and went 315 w/ 30mm spacers. The driveline vibrations went away. The truck's performance did not change much. I'm still hitting 75mph on the freeway, but of the line burst got a little slower.

Now I'm debating whether or not I should re-gear, since the knuckle is needing rebuild. I might as well have it done the same time? What do you guys think? should I bother to re-gear to 4.88??. I would do it, IF I know for sure I'm keeping it for at least 3 years. But I don't know. Cost is about $2.5 to $3k. Anyways.. thanks for listening.
 
Emu heavies with 285/75R16s:
27735075275_ea8cf6ceff_c.jpg


and with 315s:
30499489220_9254f7cff7_c.jpg
 
35"s!!!!!!!

IMG_4072_zpsmvdvhedr.jpg


It did rub slightly on the stock number, but no rubbing with the ARB. Edit: This is a really old thread. Oh well.
 
At what tire size do you need to start futzing with the odometer / speedometer?
It's off once you increase tire size. With stock gears, my 295's were 7% low and my 315's are 10% low. Look into Yellow Box if you don't like to do math while you drive. Use GPS or highway mile markers to determine how off you are.
 
i have 33s with no lift... 2.5 inch lift should have a minimum of 35s if you are replacing the tires. Anything over 2.5inch lift should go to 37s. Remember you should regear when you get that much larger than the stock 31s.

what rule book is this from?
 
It's off once you increase tire size. With stock gears, my 295's were 7% low and my 315's are 10% low. Look into Yellow Box if you don't like to do math while you drive. Use GPS or highway mile markers to determine how off you are.

A lot of my trail guides go by mileage in the sense of "go 0.2 miles and hang a left on the dirt road, if you see a water tank at 0.3 miles you've gone too far."

Might look into yellow box.
 
For sure. If you go 35's you will need to also go 4.88's and so on. Otherwise 60mph uphill on the freeway will be a little rough. :deadhorse:

How does that play with something like a detroit autolocker? Are they totally different deals or would it makes sense to do one before the other, or ?

Because you're regarding the dif, right?
 
How does that play with something like a detroit autolocker? Are they totally different deals or would it makes sense to do one before the other, or ?

Because you're regarding the dif, right?

Locker will have no effect on gearing, although if you're doing both, might as well do them at the same time since you'll have the diff apart for both jobs.
 
How does that play with something like a detroit autolocker? Are they totally different deals or would it makes sense to do one before the other, or ?

Because you're regarding the dif, right?
They both live in the same housing, so you could knock both out at the some time if you wanted.
 
Very nice......which roof rack is that?
Frontrunner Slimeline 2 with expedition rails up front (so doesn't interfere with RTT) and I added a set of gutter mounts to handle more weight.

For OP, I wouldn't worry a ton about regearing at first especially since you are in FL which is pretty flat. I am on 35's with stock gears and in SoCal which has a bit of every terrain. Yes gears will help, but not as much of my 80 Cruiser mentality...just don't be in a hurry in the beast.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom