Pigeaten
GOLD Star
could they have been for previous LED lights?
Pumpkin spice..
- Thread starter J Mack
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Yeah I don't know, clearly they were hooked up at some point then they got disconnected and wires cut and spliced back together. Did you buy these headlights or is that something to other shop provided?
Pigeaten
GOLD Star
by other shop, but it had a different set of LEDs before new work done
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks, I'll just pull it all apart and start fresh.
I'll look for marking on the new lights and find the info on the internet then wire accordingly.
I'll look for marking on the new lights and find the info on the internet then wire accordingly.
- Thread starter
- #26
Looks like a ground switching module. Needed when some LED lights are installed
- Thread starter
- #28
Thank you, I assumed it's a "anti-flicker" thing for LED's and might be needed for these installed lights but they were having some sort of issue and disconnected them at some point. I will look into ground switching module's also and see if we can solve this mystery box.
- Thread starter
- #29
Looks like the mystery box has been identified.
From the link..
"Commonly needed on older toyotas. These plug and play resistors ensure that your fog lights still work properly when switching to led headlight bulbs. Without this, your fog light switch interestingly turns on your high beams."
H4 Led Headlight Resistor / Ground Switch Module (1)
Commonly needed on older toyotas. These plug and play resistors ensure that your fog lights still work properly when switching to led headlight bulbs. Without this, your fog light switch interestingly turns on your high beams.�
square1offroad.com
Question is do I need to hook it all back up?
I was hoping the shop used a name brand headlight, But I'm not that lucky and this looks like it could be one of the many knock off lights sold across the internet and has no markings identifying it.
- Thread starter
- #30
Don wants everything gone over and any issues addressed, some oil leaks from the front and rear pinion seals were noted.
Today was rear seal day.
Crappy photo but the ends of The pinion shaft, The pinion nut and the pinion flange are marked across one side.
After the old seal is removed I pulled the front bearing to inspect and confirm I had a solid sleeve and not a crush sleeve. Bearing looked great.
I bought the Marlin crawler seals from cruiser outfitters, both have never let me down.
Back together, oil level confirmed about 45 minutes of work and we can check that off the list.
Front is next but that will be a story for another day.
Today was rear seal day.
Crappy photo but the ends of The pinion shaft, The pinion nut and the pinion flange are marked across one side.
After the old seal is removed I pulled the front bearing to inspect and confirm I had a solid sleeve and not a crush sleeve. Bearing looked great.
I bought the Marlin crawler seals from cruiser outfitters, both have never let me down.
Back together, oil level confirmed about 45 minutes of work and we can check that off the list.
Front is next but that will be a story for another day.
I have spare Toyota light upgrade purchased couple months ago, I’m happy to share if Don wants em. Don’t need 3 sets. Purchased through dealership.Looks like the mystery box has been identified.
From the link..
"Commonly needed on older toyotas. These plug and play resistors ensure that your fog lights still work properly when switching to led headlight bulbs. Without this, your fog light switch interestingly turns on your high beams."
H4 Led Headlight Resistor / Ground Switch Module (1)
Commonly needed on older toyotas. These plug and play resistors ensure that your fog lights still work properly when switching to led headlight bulbs. Without this, your fog light switch interestingly turns on your high beams.�square1offroad.com
Question is do I need to hook it all back up?
I was hoping the shop used a name brand headlight, But I'm not that lucky and this looks like it could be one of the many knock off lights sold across the internet and has no markings identifying it.
View attachment 4086096
- Thread starter
- #32
Thank you, these look like quality lights. I was hoping they were Truck Lights or some other "name brand" and I could jump on their sight and look up the requirements and confirm we are good on the current wiring.
Guys like you are what makes the STY such a great place to hang out, always willing to jump in with help no matter what.
I'm hot on the trail with these current lights and believe we are going to be good to go but I do appreciate you!
Pigeaten
GOLD Star
pumpkin spice is growing on me, who woulda thought
I couldn’t say for sure, but that’s what I remember the Cityracer LED lights looking like. Are they just a bit proud when installed?Looks like the mystery box has been identified.
From the link..
"Commonly needed on older toyotas. These plug and play resistors ensure that your fog lights still work properly when switching to led headlight bulbs. Without this, your fog light switch interestingly turns on your high beams."
H4 Led Headlight Resistor / Ground Switch Module (1)
Commonly needed on older toyotas. These plug and play resistors ensure that your fog lights still work properly when switching to led headlight bulbs. Without this, your fog light switch interestingly turns on your high beams.�square1offroad.com
Question is do I need to hook it all back up?
I was hoping the shop used a name brand headlight, But I'm not that lucky and this looks like it could be one of the many knock off lights sold across the internet and has no markings identifying it.
View attachment 4086096
If they were the City Racer ones they don't need the ground switching module. If they were ebay or amazon specials they may need it.
Just going to throw this out there as not everyone is a fan of the look of those lights on these older trucks. I've found the Holley Retrobrights to be a nice upgrade or even look at these from RMS Linky Both of these have the glass that is more period correct and both offer significant lighting improvement over sealed beam. The RMS have a projector bulb and offers a nice cut off like a modern car.
Just going to throw this out there as not everyone is a fan of the look of those lights on these older trucks. I've found the Holley Retrobrights to be a nice upgrade or even look at these from RMS Linky Both of these have the glass that is more period correct and both offer significant lighting improvement over sealed beam. The RMS have a projector bulb and offers a nice cut off like a modern car.
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I'm glad Dog is there to be the supa-vizah!
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I want to see how this resolves.
It is not easy to upgrade 50 year old wiring to include a lot of modern features and still have a safe, clean, reliable layout.
The Summit link doesn't go anywhere for me, anyone else?
I was wondering the same!