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shackle angle
Well if we do it right enough your next ticket will be for doing 75 in the PIG!75 with pig on trailer
The deeper JMack goes, the deeper we're in it
cost me some big gas money
We've talked about this several times and I've assumed the Dobson springs kill caster just like the Old Man Emu springs.
We can now say they both kill caster almost exactly the same.
View attachment 4088225View attachment 4088226View attachment 4088227
Because of some other issues caster shims aren't an option for us on this so a cut and turn is in our future if we want to make this drivable.
The formula to figure caster angle on this setup. ±20° turn: Multiply camber difference by 1.5, that gives us 0.15° caster and we have a target of "4° to 6° degrees positive".
it's actually 1.43, but 1.5 is typically close enough.
180/3.14159 * ((casterLeft - casterRight / (SteerAngleLeft - SteerAngleRight))
The 1.43 comes from 180/pi to get radians 180/3.14159 = 57.295 degrees per radian and the 40 degree difference in steering angle
57.295 / 40 =1.432
I'm going to point out that you didn't get to quite 20 degrees left, but it doesn't make much difference in the calculated caster.
180/3.14159 * ((0.0 - 0.1) / (20 - -20)) =-0.143
180/3.14159 * ((0.0 - 0.1) / (20 - -15)) =-0.164
View attachment 4088392
You can cross check (unless someone already did a cut and turn or moved the perches), by dropping the front driveline and measuring the angle of the pinion flange relative to vertical. (The mounting flange of pumpkin to the housing is the same, but that requires more work or being very, very careful.)
I’m going with the reliable Abacus!where's my slide rule?
Yes you are correct but when you're in the shop doing the work you just use 1.5, 1.43 is only used to win internet arguments.it's actually 1.43, but 1.5 is typically close enough.
I think it was a bit closer when looking from above than the angle I took the picture but yeah like you said it really doesn't matter for what we are doing here and the angle number on the gauge didn't change at all in 5° of rotation with the almost no caster in this front end . We used to do this with graduated bubble levels before readily available quality digital levels and didn't count small fractions of a degree and no matter the actual math or my example math this would be called 0° caster as a starting point and that's what I was trying to show the group that might not know.I'm going to point out that you didn't get to quite 20 degrees left, but it doesn't make much difference in the calculated caster.
I'll check that before I take it apart and post the information here, it will be interesting to see what we have on this un-known front endYou can cross check (unless someone already did a cut and turn or moved the perches), by dropping the front driveline and measuring the angle of the pinion flange relative to vertical. (The mounting flange of pumpkin to the housing is the same, but that requires more work or being very, very careful.)
Yes you are correct but when you're in the shop doing the work you just use 1.5, 1.43 is only used to win internet arguments.
We did, but a half a degree was a fair callout.We used to do this with graduated bubble levels
I'll check that before I take it apart and post the information here, it will be interesting to see what we have on this un-known front end
I'm just getting into these Dobinson springs but so far I prefer the OME front springs and for sure prefer the OME rear springs.Your post was timely, because the front end on Kalua (60 series housings, so the perches have been moved) are attached to Dobinsons springs. (I set aside the OME setup that came with the axles.). https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_8769-webp.4084654/
First time I’ve heard that “Dobinsons springs kill caster.”
If they were the City Racer ones they don't need the ground switching module. If they were ebay or amazon specials they may need it.
Just going to throw this out there as not everyone is a fan of the look of those lights on these older trucks. I've found the Holley Retrobrights to be a nice upgrade or even look at these from RMS Linky Both of these have the glass that is more period correct and both offer significant lighting improvement over sealed beam. The RMS have a projector bulb and offers a nice cut off like a modern car.
I was trying to figure out what you were talking about. So I went to take a peek.Dobson looks to have done some ****ery with the front shackle angle to control inversion ( minus a few degrees angle at full droop and plus a few at compression) so basically the shackle is backwards at ride height. They appear to use a lighter spring pack so maybe that's how they get away with the shackle angle and still have any ride quality. I can tell you bouncing on it you don't see any shackle movement and only see tire sidewall flex, I wouldn't be looking forward to driving on long fast fire roads with these.
so far I prefer the OME front springs and for sure prefer the OME rear springs.
That picture above of my truck is the before Dobinson lift kit picture
This exactly what I'm dealing with here.Front end of Kalua (no weight on the suspension other than the frame) for comparison. Pretty sure this is Dobinsons, though I will confirm tomorrow.