PTO Winch Information

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I got some seals today. Good news and bad. I think the seals will work, but not perfect. No more dust seals, these are oil seals.

The larger seal is perfect ID and the OD is a hair loose. I'll have to " glue " it in with a sealer or steel putty.

The smaller seal is perfect ID, but OD is a hair tight. I'll have to clean up the pillow block, to fit it right.

The width of each is great and the price was right.

The bearing is the correct replacement, so good to go.

Large seal by TMC----132123TB-H-

Small seal by TMC----- 30x40x7SC-BX
The picture of the small seal is wrong, go by the number above.


Bearing by FAG---6205.2RSR.C3.L38

Best I could do!

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Good deal - this makes a nice contribution to the PTO information thread.
 
Well, I finally finished refurbishing my 1988 Toyota factory PTO winch. Had Dave at Billy Goat Offroad in Armstrong, BC modify the winch chassis and build a front bumper. When I removed the spider bearings from drive shaft, the front u joint cracked and compressed where I had drilled it out for a cap screw! Argh. It looks like you can machine a 60 series steering column into a replacement if needed. (It uses the same speed bearing) I didn't have to go this far as our resident fab god, potlatch, welded a bomb proof (knock on wood) repair. Also replaced the cable with synthetic. Maiden run this weekend.

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Well, didn't snap the shear pin, but I did shear the synthetic line on the first pull. Turns out there is a slight rub on the plate behind the fairlead hawse, need to cut and bevel bigger. Doh!
 
phoenix60 said:
Well, didn't snap the shear pin, but I did shear the synthetic line on the first pull. Turns out there is a slight rub on the plate behind the fairlead hawse, need to cut and bevel bigger. Doh!
Click to expand...

I relocated the center of the new hawse fairlead above the OEM position, which was too low causing a bend in the winch line.

I center the new one about midway between a full and empty spool.
 
Glenn,

I'm trying to find out how long of line to use on our PTO winches. I think it would be a great asset for this thread.

We could post up the different lenghts, Dia. and material.

I'm going to use 3/8ths, wire rope on mine. I'll post what length, when I figure it out.

Edit: Just reread the thread. Glenn, you used 100' of 3/8ths Amsteel and had 125' of 5/16ths wire rope on it before, correct?

So, I should be good with 100' of 3/8ths wire rope, unless the synthetic compresses alot more than wire.
 
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I used 125' of synthetic and it fit. Seemed a bit too much though. I'll have to measure how much sheared off and see what's left.
 
scrapdaddy said:
Edit: Just reread the thread. Glenn, you used 100' of 3/8ths Amsteel and had 125' of 5/16ths wire rope on it before, correct?

So, I should be good with 100' of 3/8ths wire rope, unless the synthetic compresses alot more than wire.
Click to expand...

Cable to syn in the lengths we are worried about should be apples to apples.

85' in 3/8" = 100' in 5/16". Ex M8000

100' in 3/8" = 125' in 5/16". Ex some 9k winches.

125' in 3/8" = 150' in 5/16". Ex M8274

0.8% to .85% 3/8" to 5/16" is a good # to use and be safe to convert between the two diameters.

When in doubt put a little less. Save $ and keep more working room on the drum.

Hope that helps.
 
scrapdaddy said:
Phoenix,

I did a similar reinforcement to mine. Welded in a piece of metal, so I could drill for a bigger pin.
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are these pressed onto the grooved part of the drive shaft? i sheared my pin so i removed my winch and bumber from the front of the truck but no matter how hard I tried i couldnt pull this part off the shaft..

how did you remove it?
 
maat said:
are these pressed onto the grooved part of the drive shaft? i sheared my pin so i removed my winch and bumber from the front of the truck but no matter how hard I tried i couldnt pull this part off the shaft..

how did you remove it?
Click to expand...

Yes. They are a really tight tolerance like a bearing. I suspended the shaft in a vice with the yoke, and drove it out with a brass punch and drift. Oh, that was the transfer case end.

For the front on the rig used lots of penetrating oil, and a puller. And a hammer!
 
also, Im stumped at how i am going to remvoe the sheared pin.. This thing is in there TIGHT! i dont know if its an original spec pin but I tried using a center punch to push it out one side then pull it with pliers but it wont budge!! it just dented the s*** out of the face of the pin.. I was considering drilling it out but im worried it may go in wonky and il ruin something.. any ideas on how to remove it?
 
phoenix60 said:
Yes. They are a really tight tolerance like a bearing. I suspended the shaft in a vice with the yoke, and drove it out with a brass punch and drift. Oh, that was the transfer case end.

For the front on the rig used lots of penetrating oil, and a puller. And a hammer!
Click to expand...

thanks mate!:beer:
 
Just retread your post, oh the shear pin. I think I had to drill a bit to get mine out. You need a real good quality punch that small to make it work.

I drilled out for a cap bolt instead of shear pin as well. But that led to a crack in the yoke...
 
Sorry Maat,

Haven't stopped by in a couple days.

Maybe try heating the yoke before trying to punch out the pin. That's why I added to it and drilled for a bolt.

The splined yokes on mine, didn't seem that tight.
 
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This thread makes me want to install a PTO on the rear of my rig. The sheer pin is certainly the weak link in the whole thing but too strong of an upgrade seems to be able to cause damage to either the gear or your line. Anyone thought of contacting a fastener expert to find out what bolt would provide the perfect shear point at around say 10k pull? A lot of math would be needed to figure out the forces on the pin on a 10k pull
 
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