- Thread starter
- #1,441
Using bolts, 1/2 washers and a Remflex gasket they will usually seal up. I just did not have that good luck this time
Build Project Patina-November 1968 FJ-40
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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Using bolts, 1/2 washers and a Remflex gasket they will usually seal up. I just did not have that good luck this time
- Thread starter
- #1,443
I did not take it that way Bob. Agree. It’s some generic ass s***
Swapping over to my 2F intake sounded like a quick and easy plan but , of course, with this old junk nothing is easy.
Since this has the modified EGR tube for PCV I did not need a block off plate. Nor did I need the carb isolator with the PCV tube.
I had a full isolator on the shelf, used, with no tube. I test fitted the manifold to see if I could get away with using the studs and there was no way. In doing so I discovered the tube hit the booster.
I chopped the tube and flared it.
I also stole the exhaust bolts from the 60. The intake snugged up very good after carving up the header
I replaced the accordion nipple for this one for the brake booster because that one also hit the booster.
Got it all snugged up and confidently even put up all my tools prior to firing it up.
Swapping over to my 2F intake sounded like a quick and easy plan but , of course, with this old junk nothing is easy.
Since this has the modified EGR tube for PCV I did not need a block off plate. Nor did I need the carb isolator with the PCV tube.
I had a full isolator on the shelf, used, with no tube. I test fitted the manifold to see if I could get away with using the studs and there was no way. In doing so I discovered the tube hit the booster.
I chopped the tube and flared it.
I also stole the exhaust bolts from the 60. The intake snugged up very good after carving up the header
I replaced the accordion nipple for this one for the brake booster because that one also hit the booster.
Got it all snugged up and confidently even put up all my tools prior to firing it up.
- Thread starter
- #1,444
Fired it up and immediately knew the problem was solved.
Perfect idle. Perfect exhaust smell.
Fixed.
Except for the whopper exhaust leak.
I had to take it all back apart and add 1/2 washers to the header side versus The intake side.
Fast forward an hour and it’s all right in Patina’s world now.
Perfect idle. Perfect exhaust smell.
Fixed.
Except for the whopper exhaust leak.
I had to take it all back apart and add 1/2 washers to the header side versus The intake side.
Fast forward an hour and it’s all right in Patina’s world now.
- Thread starter
- #1,445
Wow.
All the little tweaks I did to hunt this issue really paid off.
The timing bump. The valve adjustment. Unreal. This is one seriously amazing truck the way it drives now with the Saginaw steering and the perfectly tuned @FJ40Jim carburator.
Notice. One thing I never questioned during all this troubleshooting was the carb. It was perfect before I went down this road and it’s perfect again.
PS using the @Racer65 OEM style pump. A+
No more sketchy ass steering slack.
So happy to have my reliable ole Patina back in business.
All the little tweaks I did to hunt this issue really paid off.
The timing bump. The valve adjustment. Unreal. This is one seriously amazing truck the way it drives now with the Saginaw steering and the perfectly tuned @FJ40Jim carburator.
Notice. One thing I never questioned during all this troubleshooting was the carb. It was perfect before I went down this road and it’s perfect again.
PS using the @Racer65 OEM style pump. A+
No more sketchy ass steering slack.
So happy to have my reliable ole Patina back in business.
- Thread starter
- #1,447
I learned a ton.
People (including myself) are often amazed at how nicely these trucks drive once everything is set up properly.
- Thread starter
- #1,451
Yep. All even.
- Thread starter
- #1,455
The @SMG hood pin swap actually took me about an hour and 1/2 getting the bolts out and such. Once I got my part done installing the bushings and pins was about 5 minutes.
I only had one screw that I was really worried about
The tools of the Patina/rusty crap trade. This air chisel with the proper Toyota specific heads from Wits End is the absolute s***.
In the history of screw extractors for me, this was the first one has really worked so well. I chucked it into that air chisel extractor and it dug in and did the job
I got the areas under the hinges rust converted
I only had one screw that I was really worried about
The tools of the Patina/rusty crap trade. This air chisel with the proper Toyota specific heads from Wits End is the absolute s***.
In the history of screw extractors for me, this was the first one has really worked so well. I chucked it into that air chisel extractor and it dug in and did the job
I got the areas under the hinges rust converted
- Thread starter
- #1,456
The other big time consumer was wire wheeling the 800 year old rubber gasket off.
I replaced it with a nice set from @Racer65
The other thing was getting the pin out without messing up my messed up paint.
I drilled a little pilot and the chisel made it pop right out
Final product. My truck is currently rattle free. Really amazing.
Thanks for the great products guys.
I replaced it with a nice set from @Racer65
The other thing was getting the pin out without messing up my messed up paint.
I drilled a little pilot and the chisel made it pop right out
Final product. My truck is currently rattle free. Really amazing.
Thanks for the great products guys.
Bodean
Hot Damn
I need to do that to the purdy truck. Been rattling since I've had it.
Apologies if this has been answered before, tried looking through the old posts but could you give some insight into your process with the linseed oil and fluid film to get the polish finish on patina? Any other products that you use?
- Thread starter
- #1,460